Just finished my second Stealth Arms 1911 and this time it was even easier than the first. Both times I was lucky and found high quality parts kits on ebay that basically dropped right in with very little fitting. Had the exact same problem and 10 minute fix with both guns too. The hammer didn't lock back with the slide so all I had to do was sandpaper and re-polish the sear. Now it seems to work fine and I still don't have a caliper or a drill press. Took 2 hours to fit and assemble all the parts on this new frame. Now I definitely need to get a drill press and a caliper before I start on the AR 15 build. I think.
The only markings on this entire gun is the "US" on the grips.....
they have anodized frames now? should i melt my old ones down or cut them up with a band saw for being inferior?
Very nice. Well done!
follow up question.
is this the grip safety i want?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...ride-beavertail-grip-safety-1911-series-70-80
follow up question.
is this the grip safety i want?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...ride-beavertail-grip-safety-1911-series-70-80
Why not just get the grip safety from StealthArms? They have them at a decent price.
It seems like you will have to modify your frame and/or the grip safety to make it fit while a milspec grip safety will drop right in. If you have the time, money, and patience to do it then go for it. Might get the same kind of grip safety for my next one.
That's the grip safety that I've used on all 3 of my builds. You will need the Wilson safety jig. It took me probably 5 hours on my first one (took it super slow), but my last one was maybe 25 minutes to get it fit.
Note if you get the blued one, you'll need to re-blue it post fitting. When you blend the safety to the tang, you'll wear off that bluing.
aluminum
Just like the frame. I have one and it seems ok.
sweet.
is it something you can mail to me and i can send it back with some cash or paypal you?
That Wilson is a compound radius. Actually the grip safety tail radius is offset down from the pin center. Something like a Smith and Alexander .220" or .250" is easier to fit since both the pin and tail center lines coincide.
Also you could go with the .250" first and if you don't like the fit (or boo-boo'd) you can go to the .220". There is a good bit of metal on them so you can blend to your liking.
I've never used an aluminum gs before but Caspian makes them so they must be reliable. More of that will be the fitter which effects it.