Stealth Arms 80% 1911 No Mill Needed w/ Promo Code

[ar15dave]

Got my kit as well. I went for the Tactical frame and had it bead blasted.

Have not started cutting yet. Watched several videos on YouTube and trying to get to a drill press to get the first holes drilled before I begin the rail cutting.

Cool thing is, if you really mess up they will sell you another "replacement" frame at a reduced cost. But, I don't want to have to do that so, I plan to follow their directions to a T.

I picked up a Caspian slide and some lapping compound for when I am done cutting.

Dave

 

[Neutron]

As posted in another thread, any sage advice before I start cutting?



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Go slow. Also, when you cut the barrel seat make sure you start with the cutter touching the top of the frame towards the rear of the barrel seat. Only turn the knob half way between the marks and cut until you don't feel it cutting any longer.

 

[iCoder80]

Go slow. Also, when you cut the barrel seat make sure you start with the cutter touching the top of the frame towards the rear of the barrel seat. Only turn the knob half way between the marks and cut until you don't feel it cutting any longer.

I haven't started cutting on mine yet but from what I have read, progressing with turning the knob half steps instead of full steps provides nicer results.

 

[Juche90]

As posted in another thread, any sage advice before I start cutting? .

What Beemer said for sure!

 

[Tnt9506]

man makes me want to do one now. Always wanted a 1911.

 

[Jimbob2.0]

Whats the durability of these? Thinking more and more of doing one.

 

[ar15dave]

Do you plan to use a parts kit or buy individual parts?

I will most likely by parts individually. I have a Caspian slide I am sending to a fellow to put ports in it after I am done cutting and lapping the slide to the frame.. Firing pin, spring, and extractor I already have as well. Getting a parts kit at this point might be a bit much. Besides I can pick and choose my parts as I go. A lot funner for me.

I am gonna use a threaded barrel for a suppressor. I am not sure what color scheme I am gonna use yet. Still working on making the frame 100%.

Dave

 

[Boxcab]

As posted in another thread, any sage advice before I start cutting?

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Slow progress, but moving forward. I was not happy with the "slop" in the tool slide when cutting the barrel channel. Along the lines of .016 play from side to side. Anyhow. machining done, starting to fit parts as they come in.

Does anyone have a recommendation as to the best order to fit parts?

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[iCoder80]

Slow progress, but moving forward. I was not happy with the "slop" in the tool slide when cutting the barrel channel. Along the lines of .016 play from side to side. Anyhow. machining done, starting to fit parts as they come in.

Does anyone have a recommendation as to the best order to fit parts?

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I am away from my computer today but if you do a search on 80% 1911, there are some good assembly guides. I will try to post the links I have later.

 

[Magnumite]

Assuming properly machined frame (may have left out a step or two):
Fit slide to frame.
Then barrel to slide using a loose bushing (1-hood; 2-upper lugs) .
Then barrel bushing to slide then to the barrel.
Slide stop to frame and slide
Then barrel lower lugs to slide stop pin (with barrel, slide, slide stop and loose bushing).
Fit and tune extractor
Firing pin stop
Recoil assembly
Ejector to frame and slide

Grip safety to frame.
Thumb safety to frame
Trigger to frame.
Fire control group and sear spring
Thumb safety to fire conrol group
Grip safety to fire control group
Mag catch to frame
Fine tune extractor
Grips and bushings to frame
Blend

 

[Mark75H]

Its highly likely that the grip safety will have to be fitted to the mainspring housing.

 

[Magnumite]

All kinds of fitting places, that's for sure.

 

[Boxcab]

Typically, when fitting pieces, I assume that you change the Frame as little as possible and make the adjustments to the other pieces. Is this a safe statement? I'm just trying to get my mind straight on how to approach the problem and to avoid creating a larger problem(s).

Thanks for all the input already!


.

 

[Mark75H]

Typically, when fitting pieces, I assume that you change the Frame as little as possible and make the adjustments to the other pieces. Is this a safe statement? I'm just trying to get my mind straight on how to approach the problem and to avoid creating a larger problem(s).

Thanks for all the input already!

Generally but not always. An example of the exception is fitting a beavertail grip safety.

You are correct that you would work the fit on a $15 barrel bushing rather than a $300 barrel. Better to be out $15 on an ooops than $300

 

[tkd4life]

So after reading this thread I picked up a couple of frames and decided to give it a try. I had a Kimber 22lr conversion kit laying around for my Springfield Armory 1911 so I decided to build a dedicated 22lr 1911 and another 45acp 1911.

The 22 went together very easily. I was able to buy a colt build kit from a guy locally and used the frame parts from the kit on the 22lr frame. It worked out really well as there was really no fitting at all for any of the major parts. I decided to buy new parts for the 45 frame and it was way more work than I thought. I had to hand fit just about every wilson combat part I ordered. They must make all their stuff intentionally fat for tight tolerances, but most of the parts were not anywhere near drop in. I feel like I did a lot of filing and polishing. Their spring kit came really heavy. I had to cut a couple of coils from the plunger tube spring to get it to work right with the slide catch, but all in all I'm happy with how both kits came together. Both function really well. I put a box of 50 rounds though the 45 with no issues at all. The 22lr was giving me a couple Failure to Feeds, but it did the same thing on my springfield frame as well so I can't fault the frame. The pic below is of the final products. I did cerakote the frames in Stainless as well but I have to admit I wasn't as happy with the color that turned out. It was a lot of work to do so it is what it is. I'm not going to do it again.

 

[Juche90]

Did you coat the frames yourself, if so what did you use?

 

[stu929]

Is anyone looking to part with or even lend a jig? Either a matrix precision or phantom jig?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

[tkd4life]

Did you coat the frames yourself, if so what did you use?

I did coat the frames myself. I used stainless cerakote. So far I'm pretty happy with the durability, not as much with the color. It's a little darker than I thought it would be based on the pictures I looked at online.

 

[tkd4life]

Is anyone looking to part with or even lend a jig? Either a matrix precision or phantom jig?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

PM inbound. We might be able to work something out.

 

[Mark75H]

I had to hand fit just about every wilson combat part I ordered. They must make all their stuff intentionally fat for tight tolerances, but most of the parts were not anywhere near drop in. I feel like I did a lot of filing and polishing. Their spring kit came really heavy. I had to cut a couple of coils from the plunger tube spring to get it to work right with the slide catch, but all in all I'm happy with how both kits came together. Both function really well.

I have had the same experience with the Wilson Combat parts, but in the long run, figuring out what needed to be fitted and where helped me learn a lot about how the gun works.

If you want a quick build, buy very expensive parts like Sig. If you want to learn how the gun works, buy less expensive parts mid or lower end stuff offered by WC and Brownell's (not saying all their parts are lower end, saying they offer across the board pricing on parts of varying fit).