Problems installing a 1911 thumb safety

Dino · Jan 15, 2012

I just finished installing a thumb safety on my Springfield and I'm having some problems.

1) The thumb safety is really stiff. It "dropped in" nice and didn't require any filing to match the width of the frame or anything, but it's REALLY stiff.
Moreso when the safety is disengaged.

When removed, there were no signs of wear or anything that would require any filing or fitting.

I removed the plunger/spring, fitted the new thumb safety and it moves freely, so I'm thinking my issue is the plunger/spring.

2) When disengaged, the thumb safety moves past the indent position.
This may be due to the brute force required to disengage it, I don't know.
But it moves past the indent position when disengaged as though it has three positions. (see pic)

I realize there is no such thing as a "drop in" part, but I compared the replacement thumb safety to the original and all of the shapes and tolerances appear to be the same. I know it doesn't take much to be "off" but I'm just not sure what to look for or where to begin.

I'm hesitant to begin modifying the plunger/spring until I know I can correct the problem with the over-travel.
The indent cannot be extended to meet where the safety drops as there is no material to extend. (see pic)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

fa18hooker · Jan 15, 2012

Does the safety function when fully engaged? Engage the safety to the "overcam" position, and forcefully pull the trigger. Then disengage the safety, and "recock" the hammer. Listen carefully to hear if the sear resets. If so it's not a 4.0 check. If there's no reset, the safety works fine...

clandestine · Jan 15, 2012

The overtravel mean the frame is not cut right or the safety undercut on the engagement tab os cut away too much. The plunger does not limit travel it only works as a detent. The friction can occur from many contact points, it could be occuring anywhere.

That safety looks like an Old Stock part or a cheap sarco item, if so its he the problem.

Dino · Jan 16, 2012

clandestine said:
The overtravel mean the frame is not cut right or the safety undercut on the engagement tab os cut away too much. The plunger does not limit travel it only works as a detent. The friction can occur from many contact points, it could be occuring anywhere.

That safety looks like an Old Stock part or a cheap sarco item, if so its he the problem.

Thanks Chad.
I was afraid of that.
Most likely a cheap knockoff.
I just went ahead and reinstalled the original thumb safety.
Lesson learned.

Thanks for the help.

Mt Airy · Jan 16, 2012

Why were you changing it ?

hairba111 · Jan 16, 2012

I've never had a problem with Cylinder & Slide's 1911 parts, but then I don't have a Springfield.

clandestine · Jan 16, 2012

hairba111 said:
I've never had a problem with Cylinder & Slide's 1911 parts, but then I don't have a Springfield.

Is the safety a C&S part? If so I doubt the part is the problem, the safety cotout is likely too large. C&S parts are often perfect only needing the sear engagement to be cut/filed/fit.

CrawfishStu · Jan 16, 2012

I replaced my safety on my SA 1911 GI twice. Two different brownells safeties did not fit correctly. I'm back to the stock one as well.

clandestine · Jan 16, 2012

CrawfishStu said:
I replaced my safety on my SA 1911 GI twice. Two different brownells safeties did not fit correctly. I'm back to the stock one as well.

Did you drop it in or fit it? If you just dropped it in its very rare for it to function correctly let alone fit/function properly without some hand fitting.

CrawfishStu · Jan 16, 2012

I did some fitting both times. One wouldn't engage all of the way at first. I'm no gunsmith but I got it working, it just never "fit" right. Wiggled around etc. I'm going to order an ambi safety and give it another shot one day.

clandestine · Jan 16, 2012

CrawfishStu said:
I did some fitting both times. One wouldn't engage all of the way at first. I'm no gunsmith but I got it working, it just never "fit" right. Wiggled around etc. I'm going to order an ambi safety and give it another shot one day.

Ambi safeties are worse than 1 sided safeties. The only ambi safety I recommend is the wilson combat bulletproof.

EngageSmith · Jan 16, 2012

As Chad said, not all safeties are created equal. Some are cast copies of original designs, and as such the detent cuts may not work as smoothly. Brownells sells a special detent ball cutter that indexes through the plunger tube in order to cut new detent divots (which should increase the amount of available tension making engagement more positive), but I have not tried this. To smooth up operation you can lightly polish the sharp edge between the safe/off positions, then re-finish the part or touch up with cold-blue.

Some people want a really positive engagement, others want a near-effortless "snick". Obviously the ability of the safety to correctly block sear movement is most crucial, and positive safety engagement for a carry piece is also a must.

Dino · Jan 16, 2012

Mtairy Biker said:
Why were you changing it ?

Just for cosmetics.
I've replaced some other parts on my SA GI with USGI parts over the years just to give it a more "authentic" look, that's all.
Unfortunately, those parts are hard to find and pretty expensive when you're lucky enough to find em.

From what I've read on other forums, the over-travel is a pretty common issue with the thumb safety so it sounds like it's just a matter of "it is what it is".

For now, I'll just keep the original TS installed.
It's not retro, but it works.

Punch_master · Jan 16, 2012

clandestine said:
Ambi safeties are worse than 1 sided safeties. The only ambi safety I recommend is the wilson combat bulletproof.

What is your opinion on the Kimber ambi safety that also doesn't rely on the grip to keep the right side in place vs the Wilson bulletproof? The Kimber replaces the grip safety pivot pin with a longer version with a groove cut in the one end vs putting a threaded hole in the pin for a flathead screw in the wilson. If you aren't familar with the design I can provide pictures. Just interested in your opinions on this issue. The only downside to the Kimber version that I can see is that the kimber is made of MIM and the wilson is made of real steel. Of course the flathead screw is a obvious weakpoint in the wilson design. INMHO both are still light years better that the rest of standard Ambi safeties that rely on just the grip to keep them in place.

If you are familair with the Kimber Ambi design and feel the Wilson is better I'd like to hear the details. Please feel free to critique the Kimber design. I'd love to hear the honest downsides to it other than it being made of MIM metal.

Please educate me.

clandestine · Jan 17, 2012

Punch_master said:
What is your opinion on the Kimber ambi safety that also doesn't rely on the grip to keep the right side in place vs the Wilson bulletproof? The Kimber replaces the grip safety pivot pin with a longer version with a groove cut in the one end vs putting a threaded hole in the pin for a flathead screw in the wilson. If you aren't familar with the design I can provide pictures. Just interested in your opinions on this issue. The only downside to the Kimber version that I can see is that the kimber is made of MIM and the wilson is made of real steel. Of course the flathead screw is a obvious weakpoint in the wilson design. INMHO both are still light years better that the rest of standard Ambi safeties that rely on just the grip to keep them in place.

If you are familair with the Kimber Ambi design and feel the Wilson is better I'd like to hear the details. Please feel free to critique the Kimber design. I'd love to hear the honest downsides to it other than it being made of MIM metal.

Please educate me.

Im familiar with the design of your particular Safety and its pros/cons, but Im not going there with you.

Im not a "real" gunsmith remember? Youll just have to ask another Real Gunsmith or someone on one of the 1911 forums whos passing secondhand info as "experience".

Punch_master · Jan 17, 2012

clandestine said:
Im familiar with the design of your particular Safety and its pros/cons, but Im not going there with you.

Im not a "real" gunsmith remember? Youll just have to ask another Real Gunsmith or someone on one of the 1911 forums whos passing secondhand info as "experience".

No problem. Personally I can still discuss technical issues in a calm rational matter even with people I don't like.

jakbob · Jul 1, 2015

I know I am committing a crime reviving this thread, but I have started to delve into the realm of amateur gunsmithing, as in I need to replace broken MIM parts off my kimber (starting with the broken ambi safety on my desert warrior). I can tell you Punch, what made me go with the Wilson Combat bombproof ambi instead of just getting another kimber ambi...

My original kimber safety, broke one of the tongues off the slave side of the ambi. Just randomly. Upon looking at different designs, the WC safety I just ordered changes from the tongue in groove joint, to essentially a double tongue in groove (i dont know if that is really what it is called, but one of the tongues on each piece of the safety extends all the way to the other side). Seems a little bit more beef (being of billet) so sure it will add a little more weight, but i dont care. i just dont want the safety to break again.

Magnumite · Jul 1, 2015

You realize you revived an old thread for someone who hasn't been active since 2013?

The Wilson BP is a nice ambi

jakbob · Jul 1, 2015

Magnumite said:
You realize you revived an old thread for someone who hasn't been active since 2013?

The Wilson BP is a nice ambi

I knew it was an old thread, that I found via the search function, but I don't go through threads checking posters last activities. That would be weird.

That and the fact that I tend to just lurk here, I don't feel the need to create new threads.

Technically I revived an old thread for ME.

Magnumite · Jul 1, 2015

hey, hey, hey

Problems installing a 1911 thumb safety

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