Long range rifle help

[ClutchyMcClutcherson]

I'm sure someone here has some answers for me as I know the level of knowledge with out members. Please give me any advice or personal opinions you have. I have a range I can shoot out to 300 yards. I currently do that with my ar-15 and a red dot. I'm looking to start shooting further, say to 1000 and beyond. I don't mind the travel since this is going to be a new hobby for me. 300 will probably quickly lose the thrill so I'm thinking ahead.

I want to get a rifle to start shooting at those extreme distances. The problem is I don't have a ton of knowledge for bolt guns, and searching the Internet runs me in circles. I've always shot hunting rifles but I'm looking for something different.

I want to get started without spending a ton for now until I work my way up past 300 and out to the long ranges. I'm thinking 308 so I can learn the wind calibrations and everything that gos with it. From what I've read, 6.5 creedmor is great but I feel like I'd learn more with a 308. I was also thinking maybe a 300 win mag, but I don't wanna get beat up by recoil.

So what are your suggestions? What is the best starting out rifle? Something I can upgrade as I go and learn. Something that I can put a muzzlebrake on? What will give me the most bang for my buck?

 

[Rack&Roll]

Search Ed Shell

This will get you to the group that is active in what you are trying to do.

https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=189025&highlight=shell

 

[ClutchyMcClutcherson]

I saw previously he has a class in Virginia I think. That is actually something I want to look into once I get my rifle. Thanks for the quick response.

 

[Rack&Roll]

You are doing it backwards. These folks have rifle recommendations that will be important to hear.

Get with them first, talk, buy rifle, shoot.

 

[mopar92]

First things first. Keep your AR. Shoot smaller targets. Then consider a bolt gun in 6.5 Creedmore. At range, it has 25% less drop in elevation and 25% less wind drift than comparable .308. Which means its easier to shoot longer range with less deviation and it will be easier to track your own impacts because it recoils less. The Ruger American is generally considered a solid 1 MOA gun from the factory.

 

[bmeek]

I have a Remington 700 in 308 that is a great shooter, but you end up upgrading everything over time which makes it much more expensive than the initial investment. I'd look hard at the Ruger RPR for an entry into long range that has gotten great reviews out of the box for such an inexpensive rifle. Good luck finding one right now though and glass for long range can get crazy quick. Check out SWFA or Burris XTR II line for inexpensive quality glass.

 

[Rack&Roll]

Is 6.5 Creedmoor hanging around?

 

[ClutchyMcClutcherson]

Dicks in Glen Burnie and Gambrills both have RPR in 6.5 creedmor. Just looked at them today. I thought learning on a 308 would be harder, but more valuable because I'll have to develop the principals. Maybe I'm wrong and should just go 6.5 creedmor from the start. I just looked at the Savage 11, Savage 10, and Remington 700. I'd rather stick with a more traditional rifle. The RPR just didn't do it for me. That along with a high price tag right off the start and it's not even a truly customized rifle. I get that it fits a need but I want a rifle to start with that isn't over the top, and that I can customize as my skills grow. I'll wait and see what some of the options here are. The biggest problem I've had is there are so many variations from both manufacturers. And that's not even including the Tikka rifles everyone seems to like on the web. Decisions decisions. Rack and Roll I do want to hear from the more experienced guys before I purchase anything. I was saying eventually I'd like to take the class after I get some recommendations and make a purchase.

 

[ClutchyMcClutcherson]

Thanks for that advice BTW

 

[mopar92]

Is 6.5 Creedmoor hanging around?

For long range stuff no. But its also hard to find match grade .308 at Wal Mart and Dick's. Reloading is inevitable with LR and the internets a wonderful place.

 

[ClutchyMcClutcherson]

Yup I'm already reloading so I am good on that expense. I've enjoyed reloading so far, which is another reason I think I'll like the long range stuff.

 

[molonlabe]

I found a two month old Model 77VT in .308 Wisconsin for 400 bucks on the Gander Mountain used gin rack. I would swears it was never fired. It shoots 1/4 Moa at 100 yards. I decided not to buy a Savage or Winchester after that. I think I got lucky. Unfortunately because of illnesses I never shot it over 200 yards.

 

[Biggfoot44]

1. Ed Shell

2. Consult first before dropping big $ on long range specific rig .

3. Not to step on anyone's toes, but normal distance marksmanship skills are prerequisite. If you haven't yet regularly achieving sub MOA at 100yd, work on trigger control, position, sling and/ or bipod use there , before adding major additional variables.

 

[ClutchyMcClutcherson]

I know he's an IP here. What's the easiest way to get his recommendation? Pm, calling, or wait for a response to this thread. I don't want to drop big money right from the start. I'd like to find something that will allow me to get into longer distances, but that I can upgrade as I go to make it better.

 

[Biggfoot44]

How accurate is accurate, how inexpensive is inexpensive ?

We're not delibertly messing with you, it has a bearing.

 

[ClutchyMcClutcherson]

I'd like to start with a rifle (no glass) for a thousand or less. Then upgrade from there. I guess accuracy is really going to depend on me so I don't really know how to answer that one. Like I said I'd eventually like to be able to ring some steel plates out close to, or further than 1000.

 

[parttimer]

Another option for you would be to use a .22 rifle on the 300 yard range you have access to. There would be a lot of wind drift and drop to compensate for with a .22 at that range. You could work on the fundamentals of long range shooting without having to drop a ton of cash by going this route to start with

 

[Yoshi]

I'd like to start with a rifle (no glass) for a thousand or less. Then upgrade from there. I guess accuracy is really going to depend on me so I don't really know how to answer that one. Like I said I'd eventually like to be able to ring some steel plates out close to, or further than 1000.

A Savage Model 10 or a Remington 700 fits the bill. For a little more, consider the Ruger Precision Rifle.

The 3 Savages I've owned have all been sub-MOA rifles out of the box. Personally, I would recommend them to anyone. I've seen good and bad 700s... I guess with anything you could get a lemon, but they seem to be more prevalent with the Remmy's. (YMMV)

As far a caliber, depends on what you want to do. .308 will get you there and components/ammo are fairly easy to get if you reload or not. Not as easy with .260 or 6.5 Creedmoor. And don't let anyone fool you about .260 v 6.5C. They are almost identical in performance. In the past, the differentiator was if you reload (.260) or not (6.5). I think it's getting harder and harder to find good 6.5 ammo on the shelves due to everyone jumping on that wagon. So, maybe it's just a coin flip anymore? I would even recommend you take a good look at the .243 or 6.5x47L. They shoot smaller bullets, but they're easily 1000yd cartridges. Just harder to spot.

For a beginner rig, I would get a Savage Model 10 in .308. That'll put you back about $700-$800. If you don't like it, because they all use the same bolt head, get a replacement barrel and change it to .243, .260, 6.5x47L or 6.5 all by yourself. (Of course, you'll need the equipment and know-how, but you won't need to send it to a gunsmith)

But, as mentioned, wait for Ed Shell to chime in.

 

[Silverlax]

A Savage Model 10 or a Remington 700 fits the bill. For a little more, consider the Ruger Precision Rifle.

The 3 Savages I've owned have all been sub-MOA rifles out of the box. Personally, I would recommend them to anyone. I've seen good and bad 700s... I guess with anything you could get a lemon, but they seem to be more prevalent with the Remmy's. (YMMV)

For a beginner rig, I would get a Savage Model 10 in .308. That'll put you back about $700-$800. If you don't like it, because they all use the same bolt head, get a replacement barrel and change it to .243, .260, 6.5x47L or 6.5 all by yourself. (Of course, you'll need the equipment and know-how, but you won't need to send it to a gunsmith)

Savage Model 10 is great advice. My 308 out of the box is shooting half moa. As for the 300 win mag kick, I have a lightweight savage that I use for hunting and have put a clamp on muzzle break from witt machine on it. The win mag kicks less than my 308 now.

 

[TrappedinMD]

I think your best option is to grab any rifle that shoots 1" groups or better with ammo that is readily available, Put a scope that tracks reliably on it and invest in training.