I'm back...making a parts list for an AR-15 - complete upper, build a lower - missing anything?

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  • mikeasu

    Member
    Feb 5, 2022
    63
    Hello all,

    Thanks for the comments on my earlier thread regarding building an AR-15. Time to start pricing, and want to make sure I have everything accounted for (at least the major parts) so I can budget this out. Plan is a 20" Wylde HBAR to be MD compliant and with the intent of longer range (100-400yd) fun to start. Thought I'd build the lower, buy a complete upper - seems a good way to go for my first AR-15. Here's what I figure I need:

    1) Complete upper: Something like this?:
    (https://www.bearcreekarsenal.com/22...-15-mlok-sidecharging-nrail-spiral-flash.html)
    I presume being marketed as HBAR, I'm still okay with the fluting? Figure I get the completed upper, done there. Looks like $300-$500, but the bulk of the cost (before optics)

    For the lower:

    1) Lower receiver - I get it, this is the part with the serial number I need to order through an FFL - straight forward, on the order of $150

    2) Parts kit - I can get these with a trigger or without. I wouldn't mind getting a two-stage trigger, but wouldn't necessarily need to start with one, and start with a cheap one included in a parts kit - or order the kit less a trigger group. Would something like this from Palmetto cover everything else, including stock? (https://palmettostatearmory.com/palmetto-state-armory-magpul-moe-lower-build-kit-black-598.html) - noting in the comments it's a 3.0 oz buffer for mid-size - worth changing that out? Issues with choosing the right stock? Probably in for $100-$200

    3) If the Lower and parts kit (+ stock) are all I need, along with the complete upper, all that's remaining are some sights (I'd likely start with iron sights then upgrade to a scope) and magazines, correct? With mlok and picatinny sections on the upper, finding sights to mount shouldn't be an issue, right?

    Anything I'm neglecting to consider here?

    Thanks again,

    Mike
     

    trickg

    Guns 'n Drums
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 22, 2008
    14,725
    Glen Burnie
    Overall it looks like you've got your bases covered, but there are a couple of things to consider if you're looking to do distance and accuracy with an AR.

    1. Trigger.

    At some point expect to upgrade the trigger on that lower parts kit, or maybe get the PSA kit with their EPT - Enhanced Polished Trigger. The EPT isn't bad, and I have a set of JP lighter springs for mine, which makes it about a 4.5 lb trigger, but very smooth and predictable. I posted earlier last week that I managed a 200-yard shot on a 1 lb can of tannerite with a 16" AR with a 4x optic, and that AR has the EPT with the JP springs.

    2. Stock.

    In hindsight I would have gotten either the Magpul ACS with the friction lock - it has kind of a cheek extension so it locks up tight and it's easier to get a better cheek weld.

    I have an 18" AR with a Wylde barrel that you'd think would be very accurate, especially given the Arken SH4 scope I have on it, but the stock was a cheap stock - not even sure what brand at this point - and I think it wobbles just enough to throw shots. I'm looking to replace that at some point soon.

    3. You might be better off doing a whole upper build around a good barrel and quality upper like an Aero rather than doing a completed upper. Yes, you'll spend more money doing that, but you'll know exactly what's in it, you'll know exactly how it was put together, and you'll have the pride and satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself.

    With the above, take it with a lump of salt - I'm a noob when it comes to building AR's and there are folks who know much more about it than me.
     

    babalou

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Aug 12, 2013
    16,181
    Glenelg
    buy an extra detent. That way you will need to build another around it. ARs are like Tribbles.
     

    gungate

    NRA Patron Member
    Apr 5, 2012
    17,055
    Damascus. MD
    I always like to keep 2 or 3 lower parts kits. Also keep in mind BCA is the cheapest of all the makers. I just got one of their uppers 6.5 Grendel and it looks good but have not shot it yet. I have several higher quality ARs including Colts so I am hoping to be happy with this. But, reviews are hit or miss. Several complain the BCGs are not very good. My first choice for this budget build was Palmetto but I had a problem during checkout and I could not get anyone there to help me. If the BCA turns out to cause me issues, I will probably spring for an Aeroprecision from Optics Planet.

    Lowers can be had for $40.

    Good luck!
     

    mauser58

    My home is a sports store
    Dec 2, 2020
    1,790
    Baltimore County, near the Bay
    Been seeing some good deals on AR parts. Just received a few Anderson LPK's and Spare complete bolt from Aim Surplus. I have some but getting some spares for down the road. Like trickg noted above you should replace the trigger. You can find some decent deals now on triggers.
     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    24,000
    Political refugee in WV
    Hello all,

    Thanks for the comments on my earlier thread regarding building an AR-15. Time to start pricing, and want to make sure I have everything accounted for (at least the major parts) so I can budget this out. Plan is a 20" Wylde HBAR to be MD compliant and with the intent of longer range (100-400yd) fun to start. Thought I'd build the lower, buy a complete upper - seems a good way to go for my first AR-15. Here's what I figure I need:

    1) Complete upper: Something like this?:
    (https://www.bearcreekarsenal.com/22...-15-mlok-sidecharging-nrail-spiral-flash.html)
    I presume being marketed as HBAR, I'm still okay with the fluting? Figure I get the completed upper, done there. Looks like $300-$500, but the bulk of the cost (before optics)

    For the lower:

    1) Lower receiver - I get it, this is the part with the serial number I need to order through an FFL - straight forward, on the order of $150

    2) Parts kit - I can get these with a trigger or without. I wouldn't mind getting a two-stage trigger, but wouldn't necessarily need to start with one, and start with a cheap one included in a parts kit - or order the kit less a trigger group. Would something like this from Palmetto cover everything else, including stock? (https://palmettostatearmory.com/palmetto-state-armory-magpul-moe-lower-build-kit-black-598.html) - noting in the comments it's a 3.0 oz buffer for mid-size - worth changing that out? Issues with choosing the right stock? Probably in for $100-$200

    3) If the Lower and parts kit (+ stock) are all I need, along with the complete upper, all that's remaining are some sights (I'd likely start with iron sights then upgrade to a scope) and magazines, correct? With mlok and picatinny sections on the upper, finding sights to mount shouldn't be an issue, right?

    Anything I'm neglecting to consider here?

    Thanks again,

    Mike
    Ditch the Bear Creek assembled upper!

    Parts list.

    Ballistic Advantage barrel or Faxon Match Series barrel
    Aero Precision upper
    Toolcraft BCG
    Radian Raptor charging handle
    Low profile gas block of choice
    Handguard of choice (BCM makes good free floated handguards)
    Gas tube of correct length
    Muzzle device of choice (YHM Phantom 5C2 is a good one)

    Select your optic of choice.

     
    Last edited:

    trickg

    Guns 'n Drums
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 22, 2008
    14,725
    Glen Burnie
    Ditch the Bear Creek assembled upper!

    Parts list.

    Ballistic Advantage barrel or Faxon Match Series barrel
    Aero Precision upper
    Toolcraft BCG
    Radian Raptor charging handle
    Low profile gas block of choice
    Handguard of choice (BCM makes good free floated handguards)
    Gas tube of correct length
    Muzzle device of choice (YHM Phantom 5C2 is a good one)

    Select your optic of choice.

    That first barrel listed is surprisingly inexpensive given what it is IMO.

    Regarding the Radian Raptor charging handle, I bought two charging handles so that I could do a side by side comparison because I really wanted to know. I bought a Radian Raptor that was a sale on a blem - I don't mind getting blem products, and especially not for ARs - they're going to get a bit beat up anyway, so I don't need things to be cosmetically perfect - I just need them to function.

    I also bought the PSA copy - mainly because it was less expensive and seemed to be very similar, and I wanted to see how it compared to the Radian that everyone raves about.

    Between the two, I actually like the PSA better - I think the ergonomics are slightly better, (although they are VERY similar) and the price is definitely better. With that said, I only have two more rifles that need the upgrade, so if I find a good deal on a Radian I'd be just as apt to jump on that.

    With muzzle devices, after reading this and reading that, and knowing that I'm not looking for a compensator or brake, at this juncture I just go with the basic A2 birdcage - they are inexpensive, and it's a good design for what it is - a flash suppressor. I will say that when we were mag-dumping on our camping/shooting trip a couple of weeks ago, a compensator might have been a good idea to help keep the muzzle in place, but I rarely shoot like that.
     

    calicojack

    American Sporting Rifle
    MDS Supporter
    May 29, 2018
    5,425
    Cuba on the Chesapeake
    I like DaemonAssassin's list of barrels. You can add this one if you want a 20" barrel


    You will want something other than a stock trigger; but there is a lot of personal preference there. Tough to recommend just one. Timney makes a great trigger:

     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    24,000
    Political refugee in WV
    I like DaemonAssassin's list of barrels. You can add this one if you want a 20" barrel


    You will want something other than a stock trigger; but there is a lot of personal preference there. Tough to recommend just one. Timney makes a great trigger:

    Cassette triggers are the worst thing for a AR. He'd be better served going with a Giesselle G2S, Giesselle SSA-E, or a LaRue MBT.
     

    Trumpet

    SCSC/NRA life member. MSI member
    Oct 29, 2005
    2,086
    For the money, the RTB LPK with the polished Schmid Nickel Teflon hammer is very nice
     

    calicojack

    American Sporting Rifle
    MDS Supporter
    May 29, 2018
    5,425
    Cuba on the Chesapeake
    Cassette triggers? Can you elaborate?
    He does not like the enclosed trigger packs (there are a fair number of shooters who avoid them). I have never had a problem with one, esp. a Timney. That being said, the Geissele triggers are better but will cost you more. The LaRue is also very good and a better value perhaps.
     

    calicojack

    American Sporting Rifle
    MDS Supporter
    May 29, 2018
    5,425
    Cuba on the Chesapeake
    If this is within your budget, then yeah, this is a better trigger.


    IDK - Thing is, some guys like single stage, some like straight triggers, some like the light crisp pull cassette triggers, others avoid them like the plague (citing reliability). Just keep in mind that as you do more shooting you may end up preferring another trigger.
     

    trickg

    Guns 'n Drums
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 22, 2008
    14,725
    Glen Burnie
    Cassette triggers are the worst thing for a AR. He'd be better served going with a Giesselle G2S, Giesselle SSA-E, or a LaRue MBT.
    It’s interesting that you should say that - I have two rifles with drop-in cassette-type triggers. One I like, the other one I actually dislike, and I actually prefer the basic PSA EPT w/ JP springs I have in two other rifles.

    With that in mind, a friend of mine is running ALG ACTs (advanced combat triggers) in a couple of his rifles and he swears by them - calls them a poor man’s Giesselle - and at $80 (apparently even less when they go on sale) they seem to be a decent value.
     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    24,000
    Political refugee in WV
    He does not like the enclosed trigger packs (there are a fair number of shooters who avoid them). I have never had a problem with one, esp. a Timney. That being said, the Geissele triggers are better but will cost you more. The LaRue is also very good and a better value perhaps.
    A blown primer or other debris that gets into a cassette trigger will take the rifle down and it is a PITA to resolve the issue.

    Also the problem of light strikes or heavy strikes with pierced primes is a very real problem with cassette triggers.

    In addition, if a part inside the cassette pack breaks, you can't replace just the small part, like you could on a normal AR fire control group.
     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    24,000
    Political refugee in WV
    It’s interesting that you should say that - I have two rifles with drop-in cassette-type triggers. One I like, the other one I actually dislike, and I actually prefer the basic PSA EPT w/ JP springs I have in two other rifles.

    With that in mind, a friend of mine is running ALG ACTs (advanced combat triggers) in a couple of his rifles and he swears by them - calls them a poor man’s Giesselle - and at $80 (apparently even less when they go on sale) they seem to be a decent value.
    ALG is owned by Bill Giesselle's wife and all the ALG triggers are tuned by Giesselle.
     

    gungate

    NRA Patron Member
    Apr 5, 2012
    17,055
    Damascus. MD

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