How to Modernize your AK

[awptickes]

I would love to modernize one of my AKs, but I'm not sure which deserves it most. Maybe I'll pick up a kit that isn't numbers-matching to build for a modern rifle.

I have a real issue messing with anything that looks "original" in form.

 

[booker]

polished steel actually resists oxidation pretty well, so i doubt you will ever really see any problems out of it.

To amplify this effect, the surface could be burnished (rubbed with something harder than steel) in addition to polishing. It slows the migration of oxygen into the steel, thus slowing oxidation.

The issue one can encounter is that oil will slip off highly polished surfaces. The easy (and my recommended) solution is to use white bearing grease on your AK's engagement surfaces (most importantly, the bolt carrier lugs and rails) instead of oil. The only place I put oil on an AK is a very light spray on the recoil spring.

 

[awptickes]

The issue one can encounter is that oil will slip off highly polished surfaces. The easy (and my recommended) solution is to use white bearing grease on your AK's engagement surfaces (most importantly, the bolt carrier lugs and rails) instead of oil. The only place I put oil on an AK is a very light spray on the recoil spring.

This is excellent advice. Slick 50 Synthetic Marine Grease works great.

 

[hvymax]

I just smear grease all over the inside of all my comblock guns. They all work just fine. If I shot corrosive ammo in them I would probably piss on them as intended as well.

 

[booker]

I just smear grease all over the inside of all my comblock guns. They all work just fine. If I shot corrosive ammo in them I would probably piss on them as intended as well.

No doubt! A drenching of Windex works too, if you get stage-freight

 

[awptickes]

My girlfriend walked into the bathroom while I was cleaning an AK once. She was very confused.

Lol.

 

[Forest]

BCM, Standard M16 BCG, Milspec Finish.

The 'Mil-Spec' finish is a parkerized finish, which ends up being a dull charcoal grey to black. That looks IMHO to be mirror like, is it just the photo or was the finish polished off?

 

[Darkemp]

The 'Mil-Spec' finish is a parkerized finish, which ends up being a dull charcoal grey to black. That looks IMHO to be mirror like, is it just the photo or was the finish polished off?

He was pointing out that it was Milspec before being blinged.

 

[browning guy]

The 'Mil-Spec' finish is a parkerized finish, which ends up being a dull charcoal grey to black. That looks IMHO to be mirror like, is it just the photo or was the finish polished off?

That bolt was loved buy lord chad and his magic polishing "cream"

 

[Darkemp]

That bolt was loved buy lord chad and his magic polishing "cream"

From Milspec to Milspectacular.

 

[Forest]

He was pointing out that it was Milspec before being blinged.

Gotcha - thanks!

Chad - why polish the entire bolt when there are only a few wear areas on the outside? Why not just polish the wear areas?

 

[clandestine]

Gotcha - thanks!

Chad - why polish the entire bolt when there are only a few wear areas on the outside? Why not just polish the wear areas?

The picture can be deceptive. I dont polish the entire bolt, just the following:

-Bottom of the Carrier (The Part the Hammer cocks against and contacts under cycling, and rides over the rounds in the Magazine)

-Lower 3 Locking Lug outer Surface (NOT the Headspace Bearing Surface, I only touch the outside of the lugs that ride over the rounds in the magazine)

-Rear of the Carrier (Prevents chewing up the Buffer Face)

-Face of the Extractor and the outer edges (NOT the Extractor Claw engagement surfaces. The polishing diminishes Brass damage when Extractor Inserts are used, and can help a gun go into battery easier when fouled since the Extractor has to ride over the rim to do its job)

-I also polish the face of the Hammer (Its a bearing surface against the Carrier)


These mods mainly save the brass from more damage for reloaders (Its why I developed the mods).

One thing many customers found is it can keep brass and copper shavings to a minimum in a weapon (Properly matched and Polished Feed Ramps are more Important IMHO). These users were ones doing carbine classes that were putting high round counts in short periods.

I have found that it will help a heavily fouled weapon go into battery where some more rough factory examples wont in some cases. I dont compete but I shoot alot and I did the mods to my AR's.

Some customer guns with short stroking problems, and failure to lock back the bolt on the last round often vanish with these mods as well (As long as the gun is properly Buffered, Springed and Gassed).



Is it mandatory on a weapon? Certainly not, but reloaders like the mods and the feedback from customers is positive about increases in reliability. I have not seen any increases in wear, or corrosion issues from the several hundred I have performed.

My old pricing for these mods were rather high for theis Service on AR's ($75 for the Bolt Polishing). I have considered doing a large sale on the service and making it $40 per Bolt Assembly, or 2 Bolt Assemblies for $75, or 3 Bolt Assemblies for $90, or 4 Bolt Assemblies for $100, and every bolt over 4 is an additional $20.00....

 

[Darkemp]

The picture can be deceptive. I dont polish the entire bolt, just the following:

-Bottom of the Carrier (The Part the Hammer cocks against and contacts under cycling, and rides over the rounds in the Magazine)

-Lower 3 Locking Lug outer Surface (NOT the Headspace Bearing Surface, I only touch the outside of the lugs that ride over the rounds in the magazine)

-Rear of the Carrier (Prevents chwing up the Buffer Face)

-Face of the Extractor and the outer edges (Diminishes Brass damage with Extractor Inserts and can help a gun go into battery easier when fouled)

-I also polish the face of the Hammer (Its a bearing surface against the Carrier)

These mods mainly save the brass from more damage for reloaders (Its why I developed the mods).

One thing many customers found is it can keep brass and copper shavings to a minimum in a weapon (Properly matched and Polished Feed Ramps are more Important IMHO). These users were ones doing carbine classes that were putting high round counts in short periods.

I have found that it will help a heavily fouled weapon go into battery where some more rough factory examples wont in some cases. I dont compete but I shoot alot and I did the mods to my AR's.

Some customer guns with short stroking problems, and failure to lock back the bolt on the last round often vanish with these mods as well (As long as the gun is properly Buffered, Springed and Gassed).

Is it mandatory on a weapon? Certainly not, but reloaders like the mods and the feedback from customers is positive about increases in reliability. I have not seen any increases in wear, or corrosion issues from the several hundred I have performed.

My old pricing for these mods were rather high for theis Service on AR's ($75 for the Bolt Polishing). I have considered doing a large sale on the service and making it $40 per Bolt Assembly, or 2 Bolt Assemblies for $75, or 3 Bolt Assemblies for $90, or 4 Bolt Assemblies for $100, and every bolt over 4 is an additional $20.00....

Care to share your process steps for the common good of the DIY crowd?

 

[clandestine]

Care to share your process steps for the common good of the DIY crowd?

I deburr the surfaces by hand using emory cloth and small wood blocks to keep all of the angles correct (You dont want to change angles or round out anything).

From there its all work on pedistal buffers. I use 4 grit compounds (They are somewhat expensive). I start with 220, step to 400, then 500, then lastly 550 which is the "Polish".

You have to use medium density Buffing Wheels and they have to be wide or they will cause waviness (Unacceptable). You have to keep the part moving and be steady. I have seen people do what I do but very poorly in the past rendering Carriers and Bolts unsuitable for use.

I have even had people bring in guns that were malfunctioning heavily, that were sold to them and were told by the seller that I (Chad) did "Reliability" work to the weapon. What people dont know is I mark all of the work I do to prevent people from smearing my reputaion with inferior copycat work. I helped these guys out but I just want to explain not all polish work is done right.

BTW, DONT use a Deremel for this. The wheels are not wide enough and it will cause uneveness.

 

[dr_baer]

Chad, this is great info! I'm looking forward to doing some work on mine now. Thanks for sharing with us!!!
Dave

 

[BradMacc82]

The YHM QD mount has almost become a clandestine (chad) signature too.

The above explanation is exactly why I'll only put to use some of the tips I acquired that night, lack of proper equipment, lack of experience too.