Help barrel leaded

[platekiller]

So I leaded the barrel on my 44 mag pretty good. In my research I think wipe out no lead would be the way to go. Anyone know where to find some in the frederick area or have so I can barter for or use a little? Or any other lead remedies that are available locally that work?

I have wipe out and accelerator if I leave it in for 24 hrs it's seems it might work. Anyone try this? I am planning on trying some new loads Wednesday.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

So I leaded the barrel on my 44 mag pretty good. In my research I think wipe out no lead would be the way to go. Anyone know where to find some in the frederick area or have so I can barter for or use a little? Or any other lead remedies that are available locally that work?

I have wipe out and accelerator if I leave it in for 24 hrs it's seems it might work. Anyone try this? I am planning on trying some new loads Wednesday.

Get a Lewis Lead Remover from Brownells. That will clean out all the lead from the bore, & cylinder.They work very well. Most chemicals dont do bupkis to remove lead especially if its heavily fouled.

 

[mbz300sdl]

Brake cleaner works great

 

[shaddydan]

Brake cleaner works great

Which kind? Chlorinated or non?

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

Forgot to mention the Lewis Lead Remover kit will also clean your forcing cone if your running a wheel gun. The kit will also clean semi auto guns. The kits arent overly expensive, and are worth the money to keep your guns lead build up free.

 

[coopermania]

Get a Lewis Lead Remover from Brownells. That will clean out all the lead from the bore, & cylinder.They work very well. Most chemicals dont do bupkis to remove lead especially if its heavily fouled.

Times 20
You can also go to the grocery store and get a copper chore boy pot scrubber and twist some of the strands on a cleaning brush and scrubb to bore with that.

 

[platekiller]

Thanks. Anywhere you know to get the kit locally? Or anyone in the area have one I can borrow? I may travel a little today. I am trying to get it fixed by Wednesday.

 

[coopermania]

You can swing by Indiana and I will hook you up.

 

[platekiller]

You can swing by Indiana and I will hook you up.

Not traveling that far today but thanks for the offer. Lol

 

[coopermania]

Swing by the grocery store and get a copper pot scrubber and use pieces of it wrapped around a cleaning brush. It will push out the lead. Harm free.

 

[alucard0822]

Get a Lewis Lead Remover from Brownells. That will clean out all the lead from the bore, & cylinder.They work very well. Most chemicals dont do bupkis to remove lead especially if its heavily fouled.

Yes, significant leading must be removed mechanically, and the Lewis kit is probably the best for the money. Copper fouling and very minor leading can be cleaned chemically. Lead wipes or lead cloth work well for surface deposits, like the front of a cylinder, or the underside of the top strap. The best way to avoid heavy leading is with a good load, too light and you get blowby that causes leading, too hot and you get gas erosion and melting, in between you can find cast loads that actually will sweep small ammounts of fouling out, and won't lead.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

Those Lewis Lead Remover kits are distributed strictly through Brownells. They are worth the money! It uses a brass screen to scrape the lead out of the lands, and throat, and anywhere else in the bore that is leaded. You cannot a ruin the bore with it. The brass screen last a long time, and you can use them multiple times.

Ive personally have not done this, but copper Choreboy (pot scrubbers) wrapped around a cleaning brush is supposed to remove lead as well. You just need to make damn sure its copper, and not copper coated steel, or steel choreboy period. You will ruin the bore if its steel.

I have yet to find a chemical that will remove fused on lead from a bore. Gas cutting basically solders it to the bore.

I would also look into the cause of leading issues in that gun. Being a 44MAG, Id be willing to bet its a case of running cast lead bullets too fast. But being a wheel gun other issues can come into play, including your cylinder & bullet size.

 

[jayc0968]

Swing by the grocery store and get a copper pot scrubber and use pieces of it wrapped around a cleaning brush. It will push out the lead. Harm free.

+1 , but you have to make sure it is pure copper like Chore Boy. Some are copper plated steel wool and the steel will scratch.
I found Chore Boy pads at Ace Hardware, not everyone carries them now.

 

[Pinecone]

You can do it with a vinegar - hydrogen peroxide mixture. But it creates a very hazardous soluble lead solution.

 

[platekiller]

Those Lewis Lead Remover kits are distributed strictly through Brownells. They are worth the money! It uses a brass screen to scrape the lead out of the lands, and throat, and anywhere else in the bore that is leaded. You cannot a ruin the bore with it. The brass screen last a long time, and you can use them multiple times. Ive personally have not done this, but copper Choreboy (pot scrubbers) wrapped around a cleaning brush is supposed to remove lead as well. You just need to make damn sure its copper, and not copper coated steel, or steel choreboy period. You will ruin the bore if its steel. I have yet to find a chemical that will remove fused on lead from a bore. Gas cutting basically solders it to the bore. I would also look into the cause of leading issues in that gun. Being a 44MAG, Id be willing to bet its a case of running cast lead bullets too fast. But being a wheel gun other issues can come into play, including your cylinder & bullet size.

I'm pretty sure I know the cause. I was using some new bullets that I wasn't 100% sure of quality. That or I also loaded 240gr with win 296 instead of the usual 800x or unique. I use cast bullets a bit and this is the first I have had leading like this.

 

[mbz300sdl]

Which kind? Chlorinated or non?

The red can I think it is chlorinated

 

[jayc0968]

May not have had good lube either. Gas check bullet?

 

[John from MD]

Brake cleaner will not clean lead that has soldered onto the inside of a barrel. It only cuts through the lubricant and powder.

The hydrogen peroxide/ process will work but it is dangerous and will remove bluing if the gun is blued.

A Lead Out cloth will take lead off but is impractical to use in the bore as it will take too long. It also takes off bluing.

The best practical way of removing lead from the bore and forcing cone is to use the Lewis lead remover which Brownells owns the rights to now.

If you are using 296 or 2400 in the .44 Mag, you need to use a firm crimp and full charges or the pressure won't go high enough to obdurate the bullet. This is one way that leading occurs in a pistol. Other things to look for are too hard a bullet for the speed you are shooting, an under sized bullet or too tight a chamber. In rifle leading usually comes from shooting non gas checked bullets too fast.

If you want a nice plinking load, 8 grains of unique works great in a pistol, 11 grains in a rifle.

 

[byf43]

I've used copper "Chore Boy" wrapped around a good-fitting bore brush, in the past, along with "Kano-Kroil".

I've also used a bore brush that was oversize, along with "Kano-Kroil".

If you can plug/block one (or both) end(s) of the barrel easily, let the Kano-Kroil sit in the barrel for at least an hour to 'creep' behind/under the lead.


Just a WARNING about both Kano-Kroil and BrakeKleen.
BOTH will remove oils and will leave the steel unprotected.

BrakeKleen can damage the finish on stocks and depending on the synthetic material, CAN melt it.

 

[platekiller]

Brake cleaner will not clean lead that has soldered onto the inside of a barrel. It only cuts through the lubricant and powder. The hydrogen peroxide/ process will work but it is dangerous and will remove bluing if the gun is blued. A Lead Out cloth will take lead off but is impractical to use in the bore as it will take too long. It also takes off bluing. The best practical way of removing lead from the bore and forcing cone is to use the Lewis lead remover which Brownells owns the rights to now. If you are using 296 or 2400 in the .44 Mag, you need to use a firm crimp and full charges or the pressure won't go high enough to obdurate the bullet. This is one way that leading occurs in a pistol. Other things to look for are too hard a bullet for the speed you are shooting, an under sized bullet or too tight a chamber. In rifle leading usually comes from shooting non gas checked bullets too fast. If you want a nice plinking load, 8 grains of unique works great in a pistol, 11 grains in a rifle.

Thanks for the advice. I have a stainless s&w 629 so being blueing safe isn't an issue. I am not opposed to ordering the Lewis kit, but won't have it in time to shoot on Wednesday. I have used the cloths before and they are a PITA but I can get some today and fix the problem.

I have hear mixed advice on shooting jacketed bullets to clear leading. Don't want to risk it.

I was using 300 gr bullets I got for free so I'm thinking that was the cause. Also I tried 6 bullets of 296 with the 240 gr bullets I usually shoot, but don't think that was the issue.

If anyone within a half hour of frederick has a Lewis kit for 44 I can use, I can offer something in return (50 round box of 22 or something)