Help barrel leaded

[Mooseman]

Wow. That was some serious leading.

 

[byf43]

Wow. That was some serious leading.

THAT is an understatement!!!!!!!!!

 

[platekiller]

It was bad. I think it is because it leaded then we continued to shot more lead because I didn't realize. Like I said I won't make that mistake again.

 

[wgttgw]

Looks like unlubed bullets to me but not pointing fingers. I also can't see how one could hit the broad side of a barn with that in the barrel. Again not trying to offend but just saying.

 

[byf43]

Many years ago, I shot some "Zero" brand swaged .38s through my S&W mdl 19.

NEVER again!! Not even bunny-fart loads.
The leading wasn't as bad as what you showed, but, it took a lonnnnnnng time to get that defecation out of the barrel and chambers.

(I learnd not to load soft lead/swaged boolits into .38 Special cases, when firing from a .357 revolver, too!)

.45 caliber bore brush chucked into a drill. Soak/saturate the chambers with Kano Kroil and remove the lead.

No thanks. Hardcast only, for me, from then on......

 

[pop-gunner]

OP,
Measure the chamber throats of your 629.
Mine comes in at .430 and my 29s run .430-.432
If I shoot .429 bullets in any of my Smiths I get leading so I will only use them in a Ruger.
I order all of my .44 bullets sized to .432 and have no problems.
I saw little leading (just a smear) using bullets with a BHN of 16 but that went away when I started using a 13-14 BHN bullet.

 

[platekiller]

Like I said I'm not sure about the bullets. I think the 300 grain bullets did it.

I have shot close to 500 lead bullets through it without any leading.

I won't be using win 296 again either.

 

[amoebicmagician]

you're making this harder than it has to be- just get a .50 cal copper or brass bore brush, put some ballistol or Kano-Kroil into the bore, let it sit for awhile, then push the brush through, as straight as you can. Depending on if it's left or right handed rifling, the brush will follow the grooves and either screw or unscrew it's self slightly from the body of the bore brush. This is good, it means the brush is following the contour of the rifling very tightly. If the lead is really thick it will actually be pushed right out of the slick bore in large chunks.

Works like a charm

 

[Pinecone]

I used to run a Linotype machine, in my younger days.

The 50 lb bar or ingot was called a 'pig', and was fed into the Linotype melting pot.
I should have learned casting, waaaaaaaaaay back when.
There was always Linotype 'slugs' (a line of type) and 'pigs' laying around the print shop. (At least 10 pigs. Never less.)

I got one bar, but I think it is less than 50 pounds.

The rest was lines of type of various lengths. And some sprue/drippings.

 

[platekiller]

So I shot today with 240 gr lead bullets with both 800x and unique. I had no leading what so ever. Loaded some lead 9mm with no leading as well.

I'm pretty sure it was the 300 gr bullets, may have to try 6 of my 240 gr bullets with 296 again to make certain, but I'm a little gun shy right now.

Thanks for the help

 

[John from MD]

I'm pretty sure it was the 300 gr bullets, may have to try 6 of my 240 gr bullets with 296 again to make certain, but I'm a little gun shy right now.

If you do use 296, make sure you load towards the high end and have a firm crimp.

Good luck,

 

[hodgepodge]

Shout out to Brownells!

I bought the kit and it was missing the 25¢ copper breaker bar. I emailed Brownell's and they said they'd send one. It came today in a medium box.

Also, over the weekend, I used the Lewis Lead Remover on some cowboy SAA's. I thought they were clean, but got out some nice shiny lead with very little effort.