Early Christmas Present from the Wife

[jhcrab]

I would read the literature that came with your crossbow; they should tell you which arrow and the weight of the field points (same as broad heads) that give your most accurate shots. Make sure that you are adjusting your scope per the material that came with scope. These are 2 of the first things you need to do base your accuracy on. Make sure that when using your cocking devise that you start out and pull equally on both handles as you cock your arrow. Also, lube the rails that the string rides on as you cock your crossbow. Just my opinion from shooting a crossbow for 10+ years due to a disability. Much less complicated than a compound bow. ENJOY !!!

 

[danb]

I invested in a bench rest and that has REALLY helped me see how accurate this crossbow really is. First two shots were touching each other. I had to start aiming at different spots so I wouldn't destroy any arrows. Out of 8 arrows, the grouping seems alright. All the same brand with 100g field points. The brand new ones sort of had a mind of their own, but I'm hoping that will change after a few more shots with them? The original 3 I started with group quite well.

I do have a couple questions though.

What sort of grouping size should I be shooting for? I'm guessing this changes depending on yardage?

What can I do to improve my groups?

Is it normal for identical arrows to shoot oddly? Some seem right on point while others seem to stray. I was thinking about weighing each field point and arrow to see if there are any differences between them.

I was able to take WAY more shots today thanks to this arrow puller I got. All in all it was a great afternoon. Hoping to get out there again tomorrow, if the weather fairs out.

You should be getting minute-of-deer at whatever range you expect to hunt at. Most crossbows are FAR more accurate than that. If you are getting 3" - 4" at 35 yards, you are GTG. Anything better is gravy (and you don't hunt from a bench rest anyway).

First, check all equipment: Scope screws and other fittings can loosen with recoil of the crossbow. Sometimes the factory is not real diligent about assembly. There may be a screw for the rail to which the scope is attached (that holds the rail to the bow). Sometimes that comes loose. Also, the screw that holds the prod to the stock. check + tighten + loctite. Check serving, etc.

Second, are you using a rope cocker? .

Third, arrow straightness and accuracy does degrade with use. Fletchings get warped etc. I have 3 arrows that shot identically out of the box, now one shoots to the right. I cannot tel what's damaged, maybe some micro cracks.

The biggest thing you can do to improve your accuracy is get different type arrows. Fast bows like arrows that are heavier with more weight at the front, and with a stiffer spine (see here: http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_selection_guide_chapter_3.htm).

Try a heavier point (125 gr) and try arrows with a stiffer spine. You can get arrows cut for crossbows just as with regular bows, but a lot of premade ones are pretty good (Carbon Express line is good) and not expensive. I use CX Piledriver, get superb accuracy, they are not too expensive.


My arrows group <1" at 30". You should be able to achieve 1-2" at 30" from a bench or better, which is plenty accurate to kill a deer at 30-35 yards. 3-4" is definitely still minute of deer and good for hunting, but I would expect better.

 

[SugeMike]

I havent seen that before..I'll check it out though thanks!


answers in blue above...just from my experience.

You'll love it!

Thanks for the advice!

Get a bag target for field points and they will be easy to extract. I have a the Rinehart that looks like a giant die with a rope attached and it is easy to extract broadheads and I also have a ~350fps Xbow. I use 150gr heads of either type and wither Easton Big Game aluminum bolts or Easton Carbons for their stiffness.

Yeah the broadheads were super easy to pull out of the Rinehart, field tips were a problem but now that I have the Magnum Grip, they come out with ease!

I have a Morrell 400FPS Target that I haven't tried out yet. Per all the reviews I've read on it, its supposed to be pretty easy to remove field tips from. We'll see. I plan on taking it out next time I go.

I would read the literature that came with your crossbow; they should tell you which arrow and the weight of the field points (same as broad heads) that give your most accurate shots. Make sure that you are adjusting your scope per the material that came with scope. These are 2 of the first things you need to do base your accuracy on. Make sure that when using your cocking devise that you start out and pull equally on both handles as you cock your arrow. Also, lube the rails that the string rides on as you cock your crossbow. Just my opinion from shooting a crossbow for 10+ years due to a disability. Much less complicated than a compound bow. ENJOY !!!

I've re-read everything. Something I find fascinating is they recommend a minimum of 400 grain arrows. I decided to measure the ones that came with the bow and they were in the mid 390 range. That's with the given field points attached. I don't know if that's going to be an issue, I just find it odd they would send arrows/points with this bow that don't even reach the minimum weight.

Also, per the instructions, I should be using a 4" bullseye. I was using a .5-.75" bullseye. No wonder things looked a little off. Over laying my groups into the 4" and they are all quite good!

I decided to shoot each arrow at their own bullseye, 3 times each. Each of the arrows shoot .5" or less groups with itself. Quite a few were in the same holes. Only one arrow shoots a little lower than the rest. I want to do a few more consistency shots before culling that arrow though.

You should be getting minute-of-deer at whatever range you expect to hunt at. Most crossbows are FAR more accurate than that. If you are getting 3" - 4" at 35 yards, you are GTG. Anything better is gravy (and you don't hunt from a bench rest anyway).

First, check all equipment: Scope screws and other fittings can loosen with recoil of the crossbow. Sometimes the factory is not real diligent about assembly. There may be a screw for the rail to which the scope is attached (that holds the rail to the bow). Sometimes that comes loose. Also, the screw that holds the prod to the stock. check + tighten + loctite. Check serving, etc.

Second, are you using a rope cocker? .

Third, arrow straightness and accuracy does degrade with use. Fletchings get warped etc. I have 3 arrows that shot identically out of the box, now one shoots to the right. I cannot tel what's damaged, maybe some micro cracks.

The biggest thing you can do to improve your accuracy is get different type arrows. Fast bows like arrows that are heavier with more weight at the front, and with a stiffer spine (see here: http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_selection_guide_chapter_3.htm).

Try a heavier point (125 gr) and try arrows with a stiffer spine. You can get arrows cut for crossbows just as with regular bows, but a lot of premade ones are pretty good (Carbon Express line is good) and not expensive. I use CX Piledriver, get superb accuracy, they are not too expensive.


My arrows group <1" at 30". You should be able to achieve 1-2" at 30" from a bench or better, which is plenty accurate to kill a deer at 30-35 yards. 3-4" is definitely still minute of deer and good for hunting, but I would expect better.

My last time out I decided to go with the heavier field points I have, the 125s. They shot quite well. I think I'm going to continue using them.

I have a feeling the arrows may have a little to do with it. I decided to weigh all my arrows without points. The 3 that came with the bow, weighed in between 295-297 grains while the 5 new arrows I bought, same make and model weigh in between 310-312 grains. I'm not quite sure why this is, but the one thing I notice is the insert on the original 3 is hollow while the newer 5 insert is closed off inside. That's the only differences I saw in the arrows.

As for shooting, they're shooting much better. 7 out of the 8 arrows group good. I think it was mostly user error with proper trigger pulling REALLY helping me.

Can't wait to get back out there and do some shooting!!

 

[danb]

My last time out I decided to go with the heavier field points I have, the 125s. They shot quite well. I think I'm going to continue using them.

I have a feeling the arrows may have a little to do with it. I decided to weigh all my arrows without points. The 3 that came with the bow, weighed in between 295-297 grains while the 5 new arrows I bought, same make and model weigh in between 310-312 grains. I'm not quite sure why this is, but the one thing I notice is the insert on the original 3 is hollow while the newer 5 insert is closed off inside. That's the only differences I saw in the arrows.

As for shooting, they're shooting much better. 7 out of the 8 arrows group good. I think it was mostly user error with proper trigger pulling REALLY helping me.

Can't wait to get back out there and do some shooting!!

Faster bows like heavier arrows with stiffer spines, and heavier target points/broadheads. The stiffer spine means the arrow flexes and oscillates less (the string puts a lot of force on the arrow!). Heavier arrows/points because arrows fly more true with more weight towards the front (FOC balance, or more weight forward of the 1/2 point of the arrow).

The slightly heavier arrows likely have both a stiffer spine and a better Front of Center balance. Unless you measured this, you would not notice. Checking to see where they balance is easy. As for the stiffer spine, I doubt you would notice that since this depends on the thickness and type of carbon fiber.