1943 Mosin Sniper :D

[Melnic]

Had mine out today. Still cant figure out the scope. Need to put a target out at 25 yards and try again.

Unless you can aim at something in the burm and have someone spot for you, it's really hard to see where you are hitting. Yes, start close and work out. Even if you boresight. I adjusted it with a laser and I was still off paper at 100yds.
At 50 yards I got the aim really steady and then moved my head up so I could see impact and that I was left off paper. I realized all my fiddling at 100yds, my windage was offcenter. All I did was move it to optical center (which was 0 on the dials) then I hit paper. I bet I would have hit paper if I had not messed with anything when cleaning.

Clockwise on windage moves the group Left.
Clockwise on elevation moves the group UP.

 

[Josh Smith]

Had mine out today. Still cant figure out the scope. Need to put a target out at 25 yards and try again.

Hello,

Some of those Soviet 'scopes adjusted opposite their American counterparts; make sure the dials are moving the reticle where you think they are.

You might also do it like this: Secure the rifle in a vice and fire. Find the bullet hole on paper. Without moving the vice (or lead sled, or whatever), move the dials until the reticle points at the bullet hole.

You're now sighted in, and you know what the dials do.

Regards,

Josh

 

[Brads]

this is one nice sniper. I would love to add on to my collection

 

[amoebicmagician]

Sorry to "poach" a thread but i bought one of the same rifles also from Aimsurplus. Pics are below and I would appreciate any information folks might have.

Thanks!

that is such a freaking tease! HOW DID IT GROUP?!?!?!

 

[kazan182]

Help with Markings on sniper

I got this last year from Classic. Wondering if someone could help with the markings on the receiver. The rifle is a Tula and is marked C H. This indicates its a true sniper rifle? All serial numbers match; bolt, receiver, mag plate, butt plate. The side of the receiver has the same serial number as on the scope. The mount has a different number however. Is it the correct mount? And is this one of the SVT scopes? Any info would be appreciated. First time trying to attach images. I also don't mean to steal a thread but since all the sniper gurus eyes are here...

 

[h2u]

While I'm no sniper guru, I can say you have a nice refurb 1943 Tula sniper. The lack of letter prefix on the bolt, magplate, and buttplate mean these were replaced at the arsenal during refurb. Correct, but not original.

The scope looks legit and is a standard PU scope and not a repurposed SVT model. I like how the mount looks, but need to see the back side for better clarification on authenticity and arsenal manufacturer.

With the scope number on the left of the barrel of this Tula and from the date/retailer you purchased this from, likely makes it a recent Molot import.

Without additional and better pics (and when I can look on a computer and not phone screen), that's all I can tell you at this point. Others will be along to tell you the name of the scope manufacturer and maybe something else I missed. Again, snipers are not my thing so I would defer to others with more knowledge.

 

[kazan182]

While I'm no sniper guru, I can say you have a nice refurb 1943 Tula sniper. The lack of letter prefix on the bolt, magplate, and buttplate mean these were replaced at the arsenal during refurb. Correct, but not original.

The scope looks legit and is a standard PU scope and not a repurposed SVT model. I like how the mount looks, but need to see the back side for better clarification on authenticity and arsenal manufacturer.

With the scope number on the left of the barrel of this Tula and from the date/retailer you purchased this from, likely makes it a recent Molot import.

Without additional and better pics (and when I can look on a computer and not phone screen), that's all I can tell you at this point. Others will be along to tell you the name of the scope manufacturer and maybe something else I missed. Again, snipers are not my thing so I would defer to others with more knowledge.

Thanks for the info! I am going to clean it up and shoot it next weekend. Here is an additional image of the scope/mount. I was mostly concerned about the scope. Since serial on the side matches the number on the receiver it's the original scope issued with the rifle? Or did MOLOT just add the serial to the scope? I got it from classic last year.

 

[psoyring]

Nice progress PU scope, no real telling if that scope was original to the rifle or replaced along the line because prior to the Molot snipers, Tulas were never stamped with scope numbers on the barrel, that was only an Izhevsk practice. If your rifle was an Izhevsk you could tell by the font on the barrel stamp. I can tell you that all of your other serial numers are forced matched, easily spotted by the lack of letter prefixes. Still a nice piece and people go nuts over Tulas, even though they are not any more accurate than their Izhevsk counterparts.

 

[h2u]

Thanks for the info! I am going to clean it up and shoot it next weekend. Here is an additional image of the scope/mount. I was mostly concerned about the scope. Since serial on the side matches the number on the receiver it's the original scope issued with the rifle? Or did MOLOT just add the serial to the scope? I got it from classic last year.

While non-matching, you have a legit wartime Tula mount with unfiled tabs (no idea on the base without pics, but more than likely it's authentic as well).
I'm just speculating, but as the mount isn't original to the rifle, I'd bet the scope isn't either. This rifle has had a nice going over and several parts have beeen replaced to bring it up to proper specifications. No big deal as everything I see is real and correct for a refurb sniper.
You have a very nice legitimate sniper that should have a lot of life in it

Also, with the tabs being unfiled on the mount, you have plenty of material to work with to properly sight in your scope.

 

[psoyring]

Likely you will find the rifle is zeroed right out of the box.

 

[kazan182]

Nice progress PU scope, no real telling if that scope was original to the rifle or replaced along the line because prior to the Molot snipers, Tulas were never stamped with scope numbers on the barrel, that was only an Izhevsk practice. If your rifle was an Izhevsk you could tell by the font on the barrel stamp. I can tell you that all of your other serial numers are forced matched, easily spotted by the lack of letter prefixes. Still a nice piece and people go nuts over Tulas, even though they are not any more accurate than their Izhevsk counterparts.

It's good to have you mosin guys here. Thanks for the info again. There is so much bogus info on the internet about these sniper rifles...such as this post which mentions the numbers are stamped into Tula receivers (assuming the scope number).

**Start***
THE TULA 91/30 PU

Tula-manufactured rifles are readily recognized by the distinctive five-pointed Soviet star containing a fletched arrow stamped into the chamber. Like the Iszevsk PUs, they often have a number stamped into the left side of the chamber, but all types of Tula 91/30 sniper rifles generally have Cyrillic letters resembling “C” and an upside-down “U” – a marking which represents “Snayperskya Provernaya”, which translates as “tested for use as a sniper”.
***END***

Above from this site:
http://russian-mosin-nagant-forum.com/information/sniper_9130/index.html

There should be an annual "Mosin Day" at AGC or some place where we all can get together and pick the gray matter of all you gurus about our rifles, maintenance, markings, fire a few rounds, etc.

 

[kazan182]

Likely you will find the rifle is zeroed right out of the box.

It appears the scope was not placed back into the mount correctly. As I look into it the barrel is clearly listing about 20 degrees to port. That is tilting to the left (counter clockwise) a bit. I will need to loosen the screws and try to reset it. Thanks

to H2u: "Also, with the tabs being unfiled on the mount, you have plenty of material to work with to properly sight in your scope." <-----what does this mean? Don't know much about scopes.

 

[h2u]

I don't feel confident in the rifle being zeroed. The mount is non-matching, unfiled, and not ep'ed with the rifle serial. I think if it had been zeroed, the arsenal (or Molot) would have, "force-matched" the mount to the rifle. But I've been wrong plenty of times before, so take this with a grain of salt

Looking at your picture of the back side of the scope mount, you will see two raised tabs on the lower left of the mount. Sighting in properly involves several things. One of those is gradually filing or shimming those tabs on the mount to be able to correct windage to the point of keeping the reticle centered in the scope. In case you haven't messed with the scope, the PU recticle moves around inside the viewing area as the turrets are turned. For example, you could have the reticle end up in the top left of your scope to hit point of aim-depending upon ammo. This is obviously NOT where you want it.

Thus, the tabs on the mount can be filed or shimmed to correct windage to center. The elevation turret screws can be alternately loosened and tighted to correct elevation to center as well. Between these two things, you should be able to keep the reticle in the center of the field of view. HTH.

 

[psoyring]

Tula snipers will be marked СП from the mid 30s through 1940, then CH from 1942 to 1944, prior to 1942 they were the only arsenal that produced Soviet sniper rifles, but it is true that the wartime sniper production numbers were much lower for Tulas than Izhevsks.

 

[Melnic]

I'm having more success w/ the PU today.
Last night I floated the barrel a little better and put some heat shrink tubing at the front to firm it up sort of like the smith sights method. I had some contact points on the stock from the first time I took it out.
Trigger Pull is still at the original 4.5lbs. I tried to unscrew the spring to work on the trigger pull but it would not budge. I'd like to get it closer to 3lbs.
Today the groups tightened up. some. I think I can get them tighter the next time I shoot. I pulled the shots for the 2 that were right.
The scope was hitting left. You REALLY have to go easy on adjusting this scope for target shooting. A few tick marks can really throw you off paper. I'd like to spend some time figuring out how much of the dials are a MOA.
The holes circled in pen were from another rifle I shot this morning that had scope issues.

This is at 100yds. Kinda cold and windy this morning. For reference, you can see a 1" square sight in target behind the paper.

 

[kazan182]

Stole this from a EU thread on SVT and PU scopes. Nice images off what appears to be many soviet scopes from the war years and more. Showing plants, years made, etc. Also the difference between the SVT and PU scopes. I can't get the one with all the scopes to be larger in the post but if you save it and view it on your comp is displays rather nice. A good reference guide.

 

[h2u]

Stole this from a EU thread on SVT and PU scopes. Nice images off what appears to be many soviet scopes from the war years and more. Showing plants, years made, etc. Also the difference between the SVT and PU scopes. I can't get the one with all the scopes to be larger in the post but if you save it and view it on your comp is displays rather nice. A good reference guide.

The list and pictures of the scopes are from Ratnik of Gunboards. He lives in the Ukraine and is one of the most knowledgeable collectors I know. Unfortunately, as he lives in the Ukraine, he can only collect the scopes and accessories-not the rifles. Ironic in a bad way...

Ratnik is also the person who helped unlock the newest information on the SVT40 arsenals. Kovrov was once considered one of the three SVT manufacturers, but new information has changed that thinking to Podolsk.

 

[Melnic]

32F out this morning. No wind. Took the PU sniper out. 100yds Surplus Silver Tip
Here are the 2 sheets I shot onto.
The first shots, I numbered. #1 was the first shot of the morning.
Notice as I get to 3,4,5 and 6, it starts to wander off up and right. I know I was not pulling my shots on 4-6. So I stopped and waited about 5 minutes then took #7. Then I waited about 3-4 minutes and took #8. Ok, so my barrel is heating up.
2nd sheet with 4 shots are taken 2 minutes apart.
I wonder if I need to sand the inside of the stock some more or this is what it will be?

 

[h2u]

Are your action screws tight?
Have you tried to shim the receiver? This will get the barrel to free float as well. The Finns did this for their rifles and most of the time this did the trick.

I didn't check earlier in the thread to see what you've done to this point, but I would also suggest a sniper barrel wrap to dampen the harmonics. The competition distance shooters have been successful with this.

 

[Melnic]

I usually tighten down the reciever screws pretty hard. I do have a FAT wrench and did not use it on this last assembly of the barrel. I"m following Smith Sights accurizing. I did shim up the 2 points as shown in his article. I may need to go back over it some more though.
http://www.smith-sights.com/accurizing-the-mosin-nagant-a-year-later.php
I however did not have thin enough cork sheet so I used painter tape up front for now. I'll see if I can find some adhesive rubber gasket at work today and try that next.
Any more info on "sniper barrel wrap"?