SCARCQB
Get Opp my rawn, Plick!
Has anyone jailbreak a sealed can DIY?
I have shot thousands of rounds through my SWR trident 9 and checked for lead buildup by weighing the suppressor.
I have found a significant weight buildup on my can and decibel readings have increased somewhat.
Since SWR no longer exist..... I had to clean my can. A company called stalking rhino industries can do it for me for a reasonable cost, but like many of you.... I like to tinker with my own toys.
http://www.stalkingrhino.com
So here's what I found out:
The front end cap of the trident 9 is a screw on type end cap, threaded onto the end of the can and is secured in place by high temp locktight.
This cab be unscrewed by disolving or melting the locktight to break the bond. You can do that by heating the end cap with a torch or by immersing the suppressor tip into a pot of boiling water.
Secure the can on a vise a d make sure you don't scratch the finish by wrapping it in leather, a rag or something similar. I used a couple of oven mitts .
You can now unscrew the endcap using a big pair of channel locks. Make sure you also cover up the end cap to prevent damage. Also, you don't want to deform the tube by tightening the vise too much.
You can also make a home made tool that looks like a T. The goal is to insert this T tool into the suppressors end cap to engage two notches on the inside of the cap and use this tool to rotate the cap loose.
The baffle stack is now exposed and secured by a retaining ring that is also screwed in. I used a large washer that's been cut up to engage two notches on the retaining ring. It serves as a spanner wrench to allow you to turn the retaining ring and loosen it. I user penetration oil to loosen the years of carbon buildup before attempting to take out the baffles.
Once the retaining ring is loose, use a wooden dowel and a small hammer to tap the baffle stack out of the tube from the rear. The stack simply slides out. Take a picture of the orientation of the baffle stack. The first baffle is stainless steel aND the rest are aluminum. The holes on the baffles are also oriented in a specific order. In addition, use the tube markings as a reference mark to orient the baffle stack in the correct position upon reassembly.
The baffles simply snap together. Break them loose from each other and Clean the baffles with a brush- solvent, I used engine cleaner to clean out the lead and carbon deposits.clean the tube as well.
Re assembly is simply in reverse order. Don't forget to use anti seize compound on the end caps upon re assembly.
With this knowledge, your sealed can is now user serviceable. I won't hesitate using this can with 22lr. I know that I can clean it on a regular basis if need be. The performance of the can is also back to like new specs. This procedure adds more years to an older sealed suppressor.
Hope this helps out
Scarcqb
I have shot thousands of rounds through my SWR trident 9 and checked for lead buildup by weighing the suppressor.
I have found a significant weight buildup on my can and decibel readings have increased somewhat.
Since SWR no longer exist..... I had to clean my can. A company called stalking rhino industries can do it for me for a reasonable cost, but like many of you.... I like to tinker with my own toys.
http://www.stalkingrhino.com
So here's what I found out:
The front end cap of the trident 9 is a screw on type end cap, threaded onto the end of the can and is secured in place by high temp locktight.
This cab be unscrewed by disolving or melting the locktight to break the bond. You can do that by heating the end cap with a torch or by immersing the suppressor tip into a pot of boiling water.
Secure the can on a vise a d make sure you don't scratch the finish by wrapping it in leather, a rag or something similar. I used a couple of oven mitts .
You can now unscrew the endcap using a big pair of channel locks. Make sure you also cover up the end cap to prevent damage. Also, you don't want to deform the tube by tightening the vise too much.
You can also make a home made tool that looks like a T. The goal is to insert this T tool into the suppressors end cap to engage two notches on the inside of the cap and use this tool to rotate the cap loose.
The baffle stack is now exposed and secured by a retaining ring that is also screwed in. I used a large washer that's been cut up to engage two notches on the retaining ring. It serves as a spanner wrench to allow you to turn the retaining ring and loosen it. I user penetration oil to loosen the years of carbon buildup before attempting to take out the baffles.
Once the retaining ring is loose, use a wooden dowel and a small hammer to tap the baffle stack out of the tube from the rear. The stack simply slides out. Take a picture of the orientation of the baffle stack. The first baffle is stainless steel aND the rest are aluminum. The holes on the baffles are also oriented in a specific order. In addition, use the tube markings as a reference mark to orient the baffle stack in the correct position upon reassembly.
The baffles simply snap together. Break them loose from each other and Clean the baffles with a brush- solvent, I used engine cleaner to clean out the lead and carbon deposits.clean the tube as well.
Re assembly is simply in reverse order. Don't forget to use anti seize compound on the end caps upon re assembly.
With this knowledge, your sealed can is now user serviceable. I won't hesitate using this can with 22lr. I know that I can clean it on a regular basis if need be. The performance of the can is also back to like new specs. This procedure adds more years to an older sealed suppressor.
Hope this helps out
Scarcqb
