80% 1911 frames

[jalopi]

 

[stu929]

Typically when new and asking questions its best not to be a complete tool.

 

[jalopi]

Typically I'm not, but the kind of reactions I got here are usually reserved for super generic posts on the forums I usually browse.

Sorry, but I don't react well to people whipping their e-dicks out to "show up" someone less knowledgeable than themselves. In my opinion I asked a serious, but lighthearted question and was responded to by something along the lines of "OMG lol how are you this dumb why don't you know as much as an attorney/a member that's been here for years"... not the friendliest way to greet new people

 

[stu929]

And you should also know there are a large amount of trolls out there and people who refuse to use the search button.

 

[pilotguy299]

Typically I'm not, but the kind of reactions I got here are usually reserved for super generic posts on the forums I usually browse.

Sorry, but I don't react well to people whipping their e-dicks out to "show up" someone less knowledgeable than themselves. In my opinion I asked a serious, but lighthearted question and was responded to by something along the lines of "OMG lol how are you this dumb why don't you know as much as an attorney/a member that's been here for years"... not the friendliest way to greet new people

My comment was a bit tongue-in-cheek, but I know it came across as somewhat douchey. Just seems sometimes that people worry too much about things that might never happen. In a nutshell, I wouldn't offer anything about having anything in my vehicle, unless specifically asked.

As for the 80% issue, here are a few links for you to read:

http://www.ammoland.com/2014/11/atf-answers-questions-on-80-receiver-blanks/#axzz3VFUNGA5V

http://www.tacticalmachining.com/1911/1911-frames/80-tm-recon-frame.html

http://www.tacticalmachining.com/img/1911_determination.pdf

 

[DaemonAssassin]

Jesus Christ, I knew I was gonna have to deal with some prima donna know-it-alls on a gun forum, but damn, I haven't had it this bad since I asked for advice on a BMW forum.

A few points I'd like to touch on...



I don't drive like an *******, but what am I supposed to do if a brake light (or something else, ect) goes out while I'm out driving? This is, from what I understand, how a good portion of traffic stops happen... nothing to be done about that



Are YOU serious guy? Why would I go by the ATFs' standards in MD? That's terrible advice. By those standards I would've been fine with leaving my Tavor under 29"... though I'm sure the Baltimore County DAs office or the state police would have a different opinion on the matter. Federal regulations != MD regulations

I digress. I've done my research and it seems that it's OK to possess a completed 80% gun in MD (though still nothing solid on the "what's up with this un-serialized gun" question. guess I'll play it safe and keep the frame receipt + parts receipts in the case).

I realize most of you probably know a significant deal more about firearms and firearm laws than I do... but there's no need to be dicks about it. Thanks for the abrasive/generic answers to my serious questions

Once you decide to pull your head out of your posterior, go look at what the ATF says about 80% frames, LIKE I TOLD YOU TO DO. I was referring you to that because MD has not said anything about 80% frames, anywhere in the laws on the books. Your response about the Tavor shows that you have read and understand MD law for firearms, therefore you should know that they are not going after 80% frames.

There is no prima dona crap coming from me. You asked a question and I gave you an answer that was befitting the question. No need to take my response personally, you should have taken the answer you were given and done your own research on it. There is a search button for a reason and answering the same question(s) for every new person gets tiring and aggravating after a while. Do more research and you will get the answer you want on the serial number question you raised.

FWIW, acting like a tool, within your first few weeks on here is not an easy way to integrate with the community. A piece of advice, get the lay of the land before you post something inflammatory, so you know who you are going to tangle with. You don't want to piss off somebody that would have been willing to help you in the future. I've seen new members act like you, then a few weeks later need help with something, and the members that person went after refused to help him. Those new members had to go to a GS to get the issue fixed, when if their attitude was different, they could have had a 5 buck fix to their problem, because they needed to replace a pin/spring. Your attitude will determine how people will interact with you in the future.

Getting into a pissing match with me is all fine and dandy, because it is no hair off my back. Personally I think it is hilarious that you got butthurt over my response.

 

[DaemonAssassin]

Typically I'm not, but the kind of reactions I got here are usually reserved for super generic posts on the forums I usually browse.

Sorry, but I don't react well to people whipping their e-dicks out to "show up" someone less knowledgeable than themselves. In my opinion I asked a serious, but lighthearted question and was responded to by something along the lines of "OMG lol how are you this dumb why don't you know as much as an attorney/a member that's been here for years"... not the friendliest way to greet new people

We don't conform to you. You have to assimilate to the community. That's all we are saying.

I never said I know more than anybody else. Might want to reread what I said when you cool off. You might gain a different perspective on what I said at that point and why I said it.

Whomever said that we have to be friendly? We are flat out dysfunctional and crazy. Our collective personality is probably best taken in small doses, till you get used to us.

 

[DaemonAssassin]

And you should also know there are a large amount of trolls out there and people who refuse to use the search button.

FIFY.

 

[John from MD]

Resistance is futile!

You will be assimilated.

John

 

[DaemonAssassin]

Resistance is futile!

You will be assimilated.

John

 

[stu929]

We are in need of an update!

 

[pilotguy299]

I spent a few hours yesterday morning playing around with mine and trying to see how all the parts fit together. The problem I have run in to is that although the sear engages at both points when you pull the hammer back, after pulling and holding the trigger it will not reengage at all if you manually pull the hammer back. If I hold the trigger and cycle the slide, the sear will engage at the first (half-cocked) point.

The sear and the disconnector are very snug in the frame, so I am guessing that it is hanging up and not rotating to it's full position. I am going to look around for some more info on this type of malfunction, and maybe look to polish the inside & the sides of the sear some more.

 

[pilotguy299]

If you are holding the trigger back and trying to manually cock the hammer, it won't engage.

Check the height of your hammer hooks. If you have a .018 feeler gauge, lay it across the flats of the hammer, against the hammer hooks. They should be even with the feeler gauge at .018. Too high and your trigger will be crappy, too low and you may get hammer follow, which sounds like what you may have.

If you have it fully assembled, lock the slide back and insert an empty mag, emphasis on empty :-), and release the slide, see if the hammer falls to half cock. If it does, that's hammer follow. Could be too short hammer hooks or not enough bend on the middle spring, I think, of the leaf spring. I could be wrong about which spring. I don't have my notes with me.

After putting away a weeks worth of laundry while watching a couple of episodes of the walking dead, I sat down and tried to take a closer look at what is happening mechanically.

I followed "inkd's" suggestion, and each time the hammer followed the slide forward to the half cock position. After doing that a few times I left the slide locked back and examined the hammer. If I pulled the hammer back slightly the sear would engage and the hammer would stay in the fully cocked position when the slide was released, even if the trigger was held to the rear.

Will have to wait for next weekend to take it apart and start measuring and polishing parts.

 

[John from MD]

Buy some "Prussian Blue" from Brownells. This is a paste that shows where something contacts something else. I would put a little on the hammer lugs and see where they transfer to the sear.

How far down did you stone the hammer lugs?

Regards,

John

 

[pilotguy299]

Buy some "Prussian Blue" from Brownells. This is a paste that shows where something contacts something else. I would put a little on the hammer lugs and see where they transfer to the sear.

How far down did you stone the hammer lugs?

Regards,

John

I haven't stoned down the hammer hooks yet. When I got home this afternoon I took the gun completely apart, and placed the sear and hammer on the outside of the gun, and used their pins to hold them in place. I then moved them about to get a better idea of how that parts interact with each other. I took them off and took a digital caliper to the parts to see how they were in relation to specs.

The sear should measure as per the below pic:

when I measured the sear it was closer to 0.467". Looks like I am going to have to get a stone and drop it down to between 0.455" and 0.460".

I then measured the hammer hooks, and both of them were at 0.030". I may look to drop that to 0.025". Some people have recommended 0.018", but that seems a bit much from what I have read so far. Most people are suggesting 0.022", but I do not want to go that far right off the bat.

I am thinking that I might try to get the sear to 0.460" first, before doing anything with the hammer. But before I do anything, I am going to do a lot more reading on what others are doing, and in what order.

In reality I need to spend a lot more time polishing the inside of the frame a bit more, as well as some of the moving parts, like the disconnector, the sear, etc,

 

[John from MD]

You would have been better off buying a matched hammer/sear set.

Having built many bullseye guns in years gone by, I can tell you that what you are looking to do takes either experience or a jig set. Even with the jig set you need to know what stones to use to cut the angles.

The bad thing about stoning the sear angles is, that in order for the job to last, you must re-harden the sear. The hammer lugs are less critical because you are only stoning their length not the face.

Even as an experienced gunsmith, today I put drop in hammer/sear packages in family guns that I work on. They are worth the money and last a long time.

John

 

[pilotguy299]

You would have been better off buying a matched hammer/sear set.

Having built many bullseye guns in years gone by, I can tell you that what you are looking to do takes either experience or a jig set. Even with the jig set you need to know what stones to use to cut the angles.

The bad thing about stoning the sear angles is, that in order for the job to last, you must re-harden the sear. The hammer lugs are less critical because you are only stoning their length not the face.

Even as an experienced gunsmith, today I put drop in hammer/sear packages in family guns that I work on. They are worth the money and last a long time.

John

I know, a matched hammer/sear would have been much better But I am not too worried at this point. The parts are from sarco, and I am using it more as a learning experience for the first attempt, and to just get to the point where it works. The next attempt will be with higher quality parts and me spending a lot more time on each step. I've already sourced the parts for the next one

 

[iH8DemLibz]

You would have been better off buying a matched hammer/sear set.

Having built many bullseye guns in years gone by, I can tell you that what you are looking to do takes either experience or a jig set. Even with the jig set you need to know what stones to use to cut the angles.

The bad thing about stoning the sear angles is, that in order for the job to last, you must re-harden the sear. The hammer lugs are less critical because you are only stoning their length not the face.

Even as an experienced gunsmith, today I put drop in hammer/sear packages in family guns that I work on. They are worth the money and last a long time.

John

But that would be cheating.

 

[rseymorejr]

I know, a matched hammer/sear would have been much better But I am not too worried at this point. The parts are from sarco, and I am using it more as a learning experience for the first attempt, and to just get to the point where it works. The next attempt will be with higher quality parts and me spending a lot more time on each step. I've already sourced the parts for the next one

I think that's probably the best way to go. By the time you have worked on that gun and made it go bang consistently you will have a wealth of knowledge about 1911's.