CMP timeline

[Melnic]

CMP Special

Mailed 9/20
Received by CMP (Post office confirmation) 9/23
email order received and given customer # 10/10
Put into e-store system 10/29
Ammo order charged and shipped 10/30
Shipped to me 2/10/2014
Received Rifle 2/11/2014

I have the CMP stamp
Muzzle 0+
Throat 1

Kicking myself for not ordering the SA Service Grade when I placed the order for this...

That is what they stamp on their replacements stocks. Usually they are dry, so be ready to oil that stock up.

What kind of oil?
BTW, anyone have a quick link of anything I need to do to this before shooting it? I thought I recall there is some stock interference I should take care of?


.

 

[CasualObserver]

What kind of oil?
BTW, anyone have a quick link of anything I need to do to this before shooting it? I thought I recall there is some stock interference I should take care of?


.

I use Tung oil. Others prefer Linseed oil or Boiled Linseed oil. Different oils produce different finishes. I'm sure someone else (Stu maybe) will chime in on where to relieve your stock to deal with interference.

 

[stu929]

I will help out with this in the morning ;-)

Tung oil is good to go.

As for the rifle...Mobil 1. If it spins oil it if it slides grease it.

 

[fred333]

I think either linseed or tung oil's the way to go to condition/restore your wooden stock. I just replaced the stock on the Springfield (with a NOS scant set) and the new wood was pretty dry. Actually, it was very dry. So I tested both tung and boiled linseed oil on a hidden section, ending up opting for a nice boiled linseed finish. I can't imagine you'd go wrong with either, but, as it's a subjective call, it's probably worth testing on your own and going with the finish you like best. For whatever it's worth, the boiled linseed can indicated guns as a typical use, while the tung oil simply cited wood.

I've been using Lubriplate grease (often recommended for use on Garands) on the Springfield, which works very well, but I've read a number of articles suggesting that Mobil 1 grease offers better lubrication and water resistance. So, as stu929 suggested, you might wanna give that a try.

 

[toolness1]

I've had good results with Boiled Linseed Oil also. Light coats, applied by hand, rub the hell out of it, and fine steel wool in between coats (make sure you wipe all the little steel shavings off before you apply the next coat)

 

[fred333]

I was just informed that I'm 30-60 days away from having my HRA Service Special shipped (order sent by mail last week).

 

[Melnic]

I guess Home Depot will have Tung Oil?
After applying Tung oil,Is it ok to use something like Balistol on the Garand stock?

 

[smoothebore]

I don't own a Garand....yet. But, I've learned a lot about stock finish over on the surplus rifle forum. I do multiple coats of BLO as discussed, followed by a couple coats of Tom's 1/3 Mix military gunstock wax. It's a dulll finish wax made of BLO, Beeswax, and Turpentine. It's the perfect look for a military gunstock and helps protect the BLO. Try it, it's good stuff.

 

[CasualObserver]

I guess Home Depot will have Tung Oil?
After applying Tung oil,Is it ok to use something like Balistol on the Garand stock?

If you want to use Tung oil get pure, real, Tung oil. Not the tinted stuff or anything. Just rub it in real good, buff lightly with 0000 steel wool in between the first coat or two. I buff with a old rag the between the last few coats. I don't rush it, just do it over a few evenings as you want it to work its way in real good. That is how I do it. I would think Home Depot is as good a place as any to get it. That is just how I do it.

Using BLO and gunstock wax is good too as suggested by smoothbore is good too... I just like Tung oil as a personal preference.

If you google how to do it, there are lots of slightly different good ways to get 'r done.

 

[05dodgedaytona]

Mailed my order form on 2/24 for a HRA Service Grade. This will be my first M1 Garand. I hope I get a nice one! Now for the long wait.

 

[Maverick0313]

If you want to use Tung oil get pure, real, Tung oil. Not the tinted stuff or anything. Just rub it in real good, buff lightly with 0000 steel wool in between the first coat or two. I buff with a old rag the between the last few coats. I don't rush it, just do it over a few evenings as you want it to work its way in real good. That is how I do it. I would think Home Depot is as good a place as any to get it. That is just how I do it.

Using BLO and gunstock wax is good too as suggested by smoothbore is good too... I just like Tung oil as a personal preference.

If you google how to do it, there are lots of slightly different good ways to get 'r done.

I mixed on some pure mineral oil with the Tung oil and it worked very well.

 

[daNattyFatty]

Kicking myself for not ordering the SA Service Grade when I placed the order for this...

I wouldn't too much, especially if you've got the cash. About a week after I ordered my HRA service grade, back in late Oct, it showed "sold out, not accepting orders"

Then, about a month or two ago, they show in stock again. So, give it some time, maybe they'll get more. That's what I plan on doing anyway, to try and get a WW2 serial rifle.

 

[stu929]

I forgot about this thread. BTW there is a place online that has USGI stocks for 75 bucls without metal right now. Just an idea.

Mobile one grease and oil both work great for the M1 as well as many other fire arms.

As for the finish pure tung oil you can get at wood working stores but not at Lowe's or the depot those are tung oil finish and will have a sealer in them. Otherwise you can use linseed oil but beware of how you treat the rags they can spontaneously combust.

Once you get your oil for you stock apply a light coat work in with your hands until it gets hot. Wait 15-20 min whip off excess. You DO NOT want oil setting on tbe surface it sill get gummy and you may have to start over. On a new dry stock as yours start with.

One coat a day for the first week. Once a week for a month and once a month for a year. That will put a great set of thin layers on it. Obviously if you dont have Tim you can space them out some. Just make sure its dry first. Also you ay want to add some color before oiling it as the wood will be light colored.

[/IMG]
CMP stock with color added pure tung oil and about 14 months. It has gotten darker over time this is a fairly recent pick. It started looking just like yours.

Also you will want to clearance a few spots before doing all the stock work. In the channel below the barrel at the stock ferrule most of these stocks rub on the op rod thise should be fixed. Also the slot the op rod comes out of on the right side of the rifle many rub there. Lastly to the rear of tbe reciever on the right side of the horseshoe the bolt will contact the stock if not relieved it Will chip the trust me I found out the hard way.

 

[fred333]

That's a beauty, stu929!
For those going the Linseed route, I'd suggest using raw linseed oil and not boiled, as is suggested by Poyer and other sources. Boiled is preferable only because of its reduced drying time (~12+ hours). Raw, on the other hand, which takes a few days to properly dry (presuming you've followed the application instructions), adds that dark reddish tint over time that many (like me) savour.

 

[Arcamm]

I will help out with this in the morning ;-)

Tung oil is good to go.

As for the rifle...Mobil 1. If it spins oil it if it slides grease it.

When you going back to Ohio?

 

[stu929]

When you going back to Ohio?

Within the month I think. Close friend wants one as does his father. Prob arrange a small road trip.

 

[Melnic]

Does Ace have pure tung oil? Any particular brand I would look for would be "pure" tung oil?

 

[stu929]

I doubt it but honestly dont know. Only place I could find it was an actual woodworking store.

 

[smokedog]

I think McCormick or Duron paints carry tung oil. A quick phone call could find out.

 

[fred333]

Home Depot sells it (as well as raw Linseed oil, which is my preference).