What did you do at your reloading bench today?

[John from MD]

I have found that cutting the crimp vs swagging it makes the primers stay tight longer. This is really important in my 300 BO super set up.

 

[trickg]

I have found that cutting the crimp vs swagging it makes the primers stay tight longer. This is really important in my 300 BO super set up.

That's what I'll do then. I may look into getting a 60 degree chamfer bit rather than my current 82 degree - I think that the flatter angle would be better for cutting out just the crimp without going too far into the primer pocket, but reading around online, there seem to be plenty of old timers using a plain old 82 degree countersink.

My approach with it is that less is more - I BARELY wind up with a chamfer at all when I do it - I see guys demonstrating it online who are IMO cutting way too deep. The crimp barely extends past the edge of the primer cup wall, so to my way of thinking, just a touch on the bit cuts enough off to get the job done.

 

[John from MD]

That's what I'll do then. I may look into getting a 60 degree chamfer bit rather than my current 82 degree - I think that the flatter angle would be better for cutting out just the crimp without going too far into the primer pocket, but reading around online, there seem to be plenty of old timers using a plain old 82 degree countersink.

My approach with it is that less is more - I BARELY wind up with a chamfer at all when I do it - I see guys demonstrating it online who are IMO cutting way too deep. The crimp barely extends past the edge of the primer cup wall, so to my way of thinking, just a touch on the bit cuts enough off to get the job done.

I use the standard RCBS chamfer tool and only touch and remove with the tool spinning in my lathe chuck. It doesn't take much to remove the crimp.

 

[guzma393]

I use the standard RCBS chamfer tool and only touch and remove with the tool spinning in my lathe chuck. It doesn't take much to remove the crimp.

I tried reaming crimped primer pockets with limited success on a forster chamfer tool.

Chucked on a drill press, I have to chamfer it for 7 seconds to get the crimp out. Even then, primer pocket is a bit too tight to hand prime comfortably, but works when I bench prime.

Maybe I'm just doing it wrong, but I stick with swaging for mass decrimp operations and reaming for occasional decrimp operations.

 

[trickg]

I tried reaming crimped primer pockets with limited success on a forster chamfer tool.

Chucked on a drill press, I have to chamfer it for 7 seconds to get the crimp out. Even then, primer pocket is a bit too tight to hand prime comfortably, but works when I bench prime.

Maybe I'm just doing it wrong, but I stick with swaging for mass decrimp operations and reaming for occasional decrimp operations.

7 seconds!? I'm literally just pressing the base of the case onto the countersink cutter for a mere moment and I'm left with a very nice but small chamfer on the edge of the primer pocket. I can't imagine that this isn't enough - the crimp is only on the edge of the primer pocket.

 

[guzma393]

7 seconds!? I'm literally just pressing the base of the case onto the countersink cutter for a mere moment and I'm left with a very nice but small chamfer on the edge of the primer pocket. I can't imagine that this isn't enough - the crimp is only on the edge of the primer pocket.

It could be my rcbs handpriming tool not centering the primer to the pocket.

I got a bit of 300 blk cases that need to be decrimped. Will try just putting a small chamfer in and priming it on the bench.

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[guzma393]

It could be my rcbs handpriming tool not centering the primer to the pocket. Squished a few primers this way...

I got a bit of 300 blk cases that need to be decrimped. Will try just putting a small chamfer in and priming it on the bench.

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[teratos]

I have been dealing with some chatter in my Grizzly mini-mill. Not terrible, but looking to do more precision work in the near future. Got out the lapping compound and spent a couple of hours lapping the table's X and Y axes. My arms and shoulder are pretty sore. Pretty sure I got all the slop out of it.

Now to get my lathe set up and I'll be a form 1 fool....

 

[IronDuck]

I am in new Windsor area. If you have some wood needs let me know. I can probably scrounge up some would for you.

Thanks for the offer, I think, I have it about covered now. Its just time and energy to finish,"finish is a little strong" probably will never finish building it, but getting it ready to begin reloading" is close. Couple of drawers, replace the bottom shelf, little block plane and sanding to get rid of edges and away I go.

Thanks again.

 

[Melnic]

Sized a few hundred cherry jelly beans. Loaded up 100 of them and shot half at lunch today.

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[Virgil Co.C]

What did I do ? Absolutely nothing .Dust it off move things around ,pull the lever . Lots of clean deprimed brass sized brass , no primers. Toward the end starting using single stage again . It’s like shooting my single action instead of semi with a magazine . Depressing . 500 left don’t know what I’m waiting for but waiting can’t make up my mind 38 or 9. Anyway thanks for listening.

 

[PowPow]

This morning I made a mess with WLP that didn't transfer completely from the pickup tube to my 550's loading tube. One got stuck part way in the loading tube. Maybe it needs to be brushed out or I just need to swear off of Winchester primers for good. I seem to have the most issues with them. Anyway, yeah. Mess. Not fun. 2 out of 100 got away to parts unknown; quite possibly landed in the decapped primer catch. I'm not going to sort through that to find them.

 

[guzma393]

Resizing and gas checking some cast bullets. Using the lee hand press with the lee sizer upside down on my lap. Works like a charm.

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[John from MD]

Works great when watching a movie too!

 

[Melnic]

Guzma
What gas checks are you using?
When I try to put 30 cal gas checks on my Lee 311-160 bullets already powder coated, they too often either don't go on straight or don't slip on all the way. (I measured bullet OAL after sizing).
I was advised to slip on GC BEFORE powder coating and that has been working for 30 cal gas checks.
Some will fall off when swishing but with the powder I'm using I dont have to swish much and I can quaranteen the ones that fall off and fix.

 

[guzma393]

Guzma
What gas checks are you using?
When I try to put 30 cal gas checks on my Lee 311-160 bullets already powder coated, they too often either don't go on straight or don't slip on all the way. (I measured bullet OAL after sizing).
I was advised to slip on GC BEFORE powder coating and that has been working for 30 cal gas checks.
Some will fall off when swishing but with the powder I'm using I dont have to swish much and I can quaranteen the ones that fall off and fix.

I use sage aluminum gas checks. I haven't really given them much thought if they slip on all the way; I only check if they stay on (sampling a crimped on GC with my finger nail to see if it prys off). I also put a small bit of case lube on my cast bullets before resizing; it seems to help install the gas checks easier.

Since I primarily steel blast with my casts, I noticed that the gas checks (pancaked) are littered under the target, which gives the impression that they stay on.

I will probably consider putting the gas check on before powder coating if I was trying my hands on precision shooting with casts.

 

[BUFF7MM]

Loaded some 147 grain 9mm’s for subs, data is a little lacking for plated/FMJ stuff. Trying some W231, Titegroup, and Universal in the midish 3 Gr’s.

 

[Muleskinner]

Primed around 600 40 S&W. They will be my weekend project. Probably set them up with seven grains of hs6 and a 180 grain pill.

 

[GunBum]

I’m sorting and cleaning my collection of .22 Hornet brass.

Of course between answering emails and writing reports.

 

[Leper Messiah]

Loaded up 50 400 gr 500 S&W with 38gr of Win 296. Dont know if i should crimp them all the same or do 10 at a time to see if they hold.