WC Spring kits in RIA Tactical 1911A1

[Tower43]

I have the RIA Tactical 1911A1 MDS edition we got from Lou 45 (MAY HE RIP)
Want to upgrade the springs, make the recoil a little better as I really am considering getting into competitions with the 1911; I know I plan on upgrading to a match barrel as well, but does anyone have any experience with these springs? Do they help as promised with recoil management and feel? Other spring kits out there? Also looking at the SHOK Buff from WC... do they help as well?

Link to the kit.
https://shopwilsoncombat.com/SPRING-KIT-COMPLETE-1911-FULL-SIZE/productinfo/316G/

 

[4g64loser]

IMAO the shock buff thing is BS. I bought a gun and found one in there once. It felt no different to me side by side with a normal 1911 that was running a regular GI spring.

Can't speak to the WC kit specifically but I've played with Wolff recoil spring kits to get best results in a 1911. Can't say the time was worth it to me. Maybe if the gun was a raced out rig but it wasn't. Never bothered with my comped pin gun..... just left the spring the previous owner had in it and shot the exact same load he used. No issues.

If you want less recoil, load lighter bullets and bring them down to the Major power floor. Then play with recoil spring weight if you have cycling issues.

 

[Tower43]

IMAO the shock buff thing is BS. I bought a gun and found one in there once. It felt no different to me side by side with a normal 1911 that was running a regular GI spring.

Can't speak to the WC kit specifically but I've played with Wolff recoil spring kits to get best results in a 1911. Can't say the time was worth it to me. Maybe if the gun was a raced out rig but it wasn't. Never bothered with my comped pin gun..... just left the spring the previous owner had in it and shot the exact same load he used. No issues.

If you want less recoil, load lighter bullets and bring them down to the Major power floor. Then play with recoil spring weight if you have cycling issues.

Well from what I've read, shok-buff isn't to do anything for recoil feel, it's to prevent parts of the frame from bashing on the guide rod

 

[Tower43]

And typically I just run boxed 230gr factory FMJ ammo

 

[4g64loser]

Well from what I've read, shok-buff isn't to do anything for recoil feel, it's to prevent parts of the frame from bashing on the guide rod

Well, I don't have any damaged guide rods in the half dozen 1911s I own. Maybe magnumite or one of our other more knowledgeable 1911 builders will weigh in but it's my layman's opinion that if such a buffer was needed that John Browning would have incorporated one.

Changing springs to tune the gun to a specific ammo may have some merit but I think the time spent experimenting would probably be better spent shooting. I like watching the guys with an obviously well worn gun kick the crap out of people who run shiny new raceguns.....

 

[Josh Smith]

Hello,

I highly recommend the flat wire recoil spring, here:

Flat Wire 1911 Recoil Springs - Wilson Combat

In my opinion, this is one of the few unique upgrades left for the 1911. I build my carry pistols on RIA and this flat wire is awesome.

Go with as close to 16lbs as you can get with the flat wire, and stay with the standard 23lb main spring. Install a squared-bottom firing pin stop; this should slightly increase dwell time and also give you a better recoil pulse. The standard weight sear spring is just fine, but a reduced-weight will work as long as you don't try to reduce the sear leg too much; doing so will allow the sear to bounce and the hammer to follow.

Regards,
Josh

P.S. I use Alumabuffs, here: https://www.taylor-tactical-supply.com/alumabuff-p/alumabuff.htm
RIA Government models should have the travel necessary to allow buffer use. Don't try using them in Commander or smaller 1911s of any type.

 

[HiStandards]

I have a Shok-Buff in my Govt Model. It goes on the guide rod and keeps the dust cover of the slide from smacking the guide rod. Mine gets kinda smashed and ugly after about 1000 rounds. I don't think John Browning anticipated the number of rounds we put through our pistols.

 

[teratos]

I don't think John Browning anticipated the number of rounds we put through our pistols.

Dude…JMB knows all. I’ve reported this post for being sacrilege.

 

[Tower43]

Hello,

I highly recommend the flat wire recoil spring, here:

Flat Wire 1911 Recoil Springs - Wilson Combat

In my opinion, this is one of the few unique upgrades left for the 1911. I build my carry pistols on RIA and this flat wire is awesome.

Go with as close to 16lbs as you can get with the flat wire, and stay with the standard 23lb main spring. Install a squared-bottom firing pin stop; this should slightly increase dwell time and also give you a better recoil pulse. The standard weight sear spring is just fine, but a reduced-weight will work as long as you don't try to reduce the sear leg too much; doing so will allow the sear to bounce and the hammer to follow.

Regards,
Josh

P.S. I use Alumabuffs, here: https://www.taylor-tactical-supply.com/alumabuff-p/alumabuff.htm
RIA Government models should have the travel necessary to allow buffer use. Don't try using them in Commander or smaller 1911s of any type.

Thanks, Does the flat spring work on the full sized rods? I do like my 1911 but I want to tune it some more... just wish it'd feed JHPs (I know, it's designed for the FMJ ball round) seems the JHP rounds tend to get caught feeding into the barrel/chamber and catching, causing a FTF.

 

[4g64loser]

Thanks, Does the flat spring work on the full sized rods? I do like my 1911 but I want to tune it some more... just wish it'd feed JHPs (I know, it's designed for the FMJ ball round) seems the JHP rounds tend to get caught feeding into the barrel/chamber and catching, causing a FTF.

FWIW, Remington golden sabers feed in just about every 1911 I've owned, stock or custom. Rounder profile. The hornady stuff doesn't work without a lot of custom fitting and ramp job. Federal and winchester are hit or miss in stock guns.

 

[Josh Smith]

Thanks, Does the flat spring work on the full sized rods? I do like my 1911 but I want to tune it some more... just wish it'd feed JHPs (I know, it's designed for the FMJ ball round) seems the JHP rounds tend to get caught feeding into the barrel/chamber and catching, causing a FTF.

Hello,

There's a FLGR kit, here: https://shopwilsoncombat.com/GUIDE-ROD-FULL-LENGTH-FLAT-WIRE-FULL-SIZE/productinfo/25GRFW/ It looks like you'll need to purchase a spring separately.

I used the stubby guide rod kit, and it included a spring.

A 1911 should feed pretty much anything. I have my carry pistol feeding empty cases.



You can try different magazines. The Wilson magazines, IIRC, set up a bit higher than normal for a straight shot down the throat. Also, EGW makes a higher mag catch, here: https://www.egwguns.com/hd-higher-mag-catch-machined-from-barstock-checkered-blue

I personally use the EGW catch with RPM mags ( https://www.cmproducts.com/Railed-Power-Mag-RPM-Full-Size-1911-45-ACP-8-Round-Stainless_p_211.html ) in my current carry 1911. The one I keep at the shop uses Wilson #47 mags. I honestly don't recall whether it has a high mag catch in it, or not.

Regards,

Josh

 

[Tower43]

Hello,

There's a FLGR kit, here: https://shopwilsoncombat.com/GUIDE-ROD-FULL-LENGTH-FLAT-WIRE-FULL-SIZE/productinfo/25GRFW/ It looks like you'll need to purchase a spring separately.

I used the stubby guide rod kit, and it included a spring.

A 1911 should feed pretty much anything. I have my carry pistol feeding empty cases.



You can try different magazines. The Wilson magazines, IIRC, set up a bit higher than normal for a straight shot down the throat. Also, EGW makes a higher mag catch, here: https://www.egwguns.com/hd-higher-mag-catch-machined-from-barstock-checkered-blue

I personally use the EGW catch with RPM mags ( https://www.cmproducts.com/Railed-Power-Mag-RPM-Full-Size-1911-45-ACP-8-Round-Stainless_p_211.html ) in my current carry 1911. The one I keep at the shop uses Wilson #47 mags. I honestly don't recall whether it has a high mag catch in it, or not.

Regards,

Josh

Interesting, didnt know about a higher catch...does this let it seat a little higher?
I currently have 2 WC mags and a RIA factory mag, specifically at max capacity (8) it constantly gets a FTF with WWB JHP and Hydrashoks.

Ill definitely look into the alum buffer vs the poly one, and take a look at the FLGR wt flat spring (come to think of it, my m&ps are all flat wire too), fwiw the armscor customer svc stated if i ran shorter rod and plug it'd void any warranty.

The trigger pull itself is good already, and unless damaged dont think I'd change the main spring.

Side note.., sights... FO or Tritium night front..and should i bother with tritium rear or leave it a solid novak style?

then of course theres the figuring out sight heights, that is confusing

 

[Magnumite]

If Wilson offers the kit it probably works.

Particular to the 1911, I work from the back of the pistol to tune it. To get it to run smoother and the sights to track flat (not dip nor remain high when the slide cycles back into battery), you need to regulate the slide speed.

If you take your stock 45 1911 and really watch the front sight through the firing event (follow through) you will notice the front sight dips when the slide slams back into battery. Since the recoil spring returns the slide you use a lighter recoil spring until the dipping stops and the sights are not high on the next shot.

That done, you must attend to the slide speed so you don’t get as pronounced a slap of the slide hitting the frame. Most guys use a reduced radius or a flat bottom firing pin stop to cause the slide (through the stop) to push lower on the hammer face. This reduces the mechanical leverage advantage of the slide during unlocking. This slows the slide by dissipating some of its energy into the mainspring (hammer spring) via the shorter lever arm (pushing closer to the hammer pin). This reduces slide velocity, thus, reduces slap of the pistol backward.

Heavier mainsprings do the same thing.

If you are tuning a 9mm or soft shooting 45 the opposite is true.

All these and more apply to the tuning task. You will find as you weight, strength, shooting form evolve, fine tuning the pistol may become necessary.

 

[Josh Smith]

Well from what I've read, shok-buff isn't to do anything for recoil feel, it's to prevent parts of the frame from bashing on the guide rod

You can definitely feel the shock buffer in there.

 

[Josh Smith]

Interesting, didnt know about a higher catch...does this let it seat a little higher?
I currently have 2 WC mags and a RIA factory mag, specifically at max capacity (8) it constantly gets a FTF with WWB JHP and Hydrashoks.

Ill definitely look into the alum buffer vs the poly one, and take a look at the FLGR wt flat spring (come to think of it, my m&ps are all flat wire too), fwiw the armscor customer svc stated if i ran shorter rod and plug it'd void any warranty.

The trigger pull itself is good already, and unless damaged dont think I'd change the main spring.

Side note.., sights... FO or Tritium night front..and should i bother with tritium rear or leave it a solid novak style?

then of course theres the figuring out sight heights, that is confusing

Yes, it lets the mag set a little higher. My second RIA seemingly let the mag set too low, so this helped.

Flat wire springs last a lot longer, and stack less. It's more consistent.

As far as the sights go, I'd leave the rear sight blank. Mine is a Meprolite front with a Heinie rear. The Heinie rear is designed to be snagged to operate the slide should one need to do so.

 

[Tower43]

Thanks definitely added some stuff to my potential build out. I do love my Rock, but I want to make it the most reliable and accurate I can for an EDC 1911.

Also hoping to pick up an Operator 45 soon, then convert one or the other to a competition gun and some 10 round magazines.

 

[erwos]

If Wilson offers the kit it probably works.

Particular to the 1911, I work from the back of the pistol to tune it. To get it to run smoother and the sights to track flat (not dip nor remain high when the slide cycles back into battery), you need to regulate the slide speed.

If you take your stock 45 1911 and really watch the front sight through the firing event (follow through) you will notice the front sight dips when the slide slams back into battery. Since the recoil spring returns the slide you use a lighter recoil spring until the dipping stops and the sights are not high on the next shot.

That done, you must attend to the slide speed so you don’t get as pronounced a slap of the slide hitting the frame. Most guys use a reduced radius or a flat bottom firing pin stop to cause the slide (through the stop) to push lower on the hammer face. This reduces the mechanical leverage advantage of the slide during unlocking. This slows the slide by dissipating some of its energy into the mainspring (hammer spring) via the shorter lever arm (pushing closer to the hammer pin). This reduces slide velocity, thus, reduces slap of the pistol backward.

Heavier mainsprings do the same thing.

If you are tuning a 9mm or soft shooting 45 the opposite is true.

All these and more apply to the tuning task. You will find as you weight, strength, shooting form evolve, fine tuning the pistol may become necessary.

This is very very good advice. I strongly recommend starting off with a 17lb mainspring and a 15lb Wolff variable recoil spring. 17lb mainspring should light off pretty much any primer, and I can say I've never had problems with it in my personal experience (including on many, many CCI rifle primers).

For sights, Dawson fiber optic front with a black rear is what you're after. Night sights are not a good choice for a competition gun. Consider getting your slide cut for Novaks if it's still running GI sights (tenon front). I'd argue that sights are maybe the single most important upgrade for a competition pistol.

Better grips like the LOK Bogies should also be on your shortlist of upgrades.

An extended magazine release is probably worth considering.

I've never found FLGRs to be worthwhile. A "match barrel" is also probably a waste of money for practical shooting competitions.

 

[Tower43]

This is very very good advice. I strongly recommend starting off with a 17lb mainspring and a 15lb Wolff variable recoil spring. 17lb mainspring should light off pretty much any primer, and I can say I've never had problems with it in my personal experience (including on many, many CCI rifle primers).

For sights, Dawson fiber optic front with a black rear is what you're after. Night sights are not a good choice for a competition gun. Consider getting your slide cut for Novaks if it's still running GI sights (tenon front). I'd argue that sights are maybe the single most important upgrade for a competition pistol.

Better grips like the LOK Bogies should also be on your shortlist of upgrades.

An extended magazine release is probably worth considering.

I've never found FLGRs to be worthwhile. A "match barrel" is also probably a waste of money for practical shooting competitions.

I mean it already has a FLGR from RIA/Armscor. It helps prevent spring bind/stacking with the factory round spring, hell, all my striker guns have FLGRs for the length of their springs as well.

It's a mix of carry/comp so trying to find what will work best. Though trying to figure out what optimal height would be.

 

[Tower43]

I currently have VZ Grips USMC (limited run) on her. If I can manage the operator 45 that will be a dedicated carry and convert the RIA to comp only, which will be different setups as well lol

 

[Biggfoot44]

OEM flgr on 1911 can be fixed by replacing with JMB style guide rod and conventional plug .