Today didn't go well...

[Pinecone]

I use Dillon lube and haven't had a stuck case with it. You can make it yourself using Laonlin and Alcohol (1 part lanolin to 10 parts alcohol).

Spray on lightly, and just start sizing, no need to let it dry. Some people over on the Brian Enos forum only lubed about 10% of their cases with it, and that is enough lube to keep the die lubed. I would NOT do this, it would just worry me. I have a plastic shoe box sized container from Target, I dump in a few hand fulls of brass, give it 2 - 3 spritzes, and go at it. I ran about 2500 .223 cases last week without any issues.

For sticking on the expanding ball, Redding and Dillon have dies with carbide expanding balls. The Redding can be retrofitted to any of their dies. I recently got Dillon .223 dies (used RCBS before) with a carbide expander and the difference is quite noticeable. MUCH less drag when the expander comes through the neck.

 

[Pinecone]

#1 What other kind of hole would you tap ... besides a threaded one?

Well, in most cases you are tapping an UNTHREADED hole to MAKE it a threaded hole.

Running a tap through a threaded hole is normally referred to as chasing the threads.

 

[SOMDSHOOT]

Stuck cases are just a memory using this:

Best stuff EVER made and I have never had a stuck case using it. That includes making 300 BLK brass and resizing 458 SOCOM.

Hornady came out with their version which I bought but haven't used yet.

But does it serve any purpose for the sizing ball to not get stuck in the case neck ?

 

[SOMDSHOOT]

I use Dillon lube and haven't had a stuck case with it. You can make it yourself using Laonlin and Alcohol (1 part lanolin to 10 parts alcohol).

Spray on lightly, and just start sizing, no need to let it dry. Some people over on the Brian Enos forum only lubed about 10% of their cases with it, and that is enough lube to keep the die lubed. I would NOT do this, it would just worry me. I have a plastic shoe box sized container from Target, I dump in a few hand fulls of brass, give it 2 - 3 spritzes, and go at it. I ran about 2500 .223 cases last week without any issues.

For sticking on the expanding ball, Redding and Dillon have dies with carbide expanding balls. The Redding can be retrofitted to any of their dies. I recently got Dillon .223 dies (used RCBS before) with a carbide expander and the difference is quite noticeable. MUCH less drag when the expander comes through the neck.

That's all fine and dandy wonderful, but, the point you are missing is the case is pulling out of the holder on the ram. Maybe the holder itself is at fault in all this mess to begin with. That thin brass lip on some cases just can't handle that return pressure.

 

[iH8DemLibz]

Bold statement .... (YOU ARE WRONG) ... to the guy who thinks tapping threaded holes without lube is a standard procedure:

#1 What other kind of hole would you tap ... besides a threaded one?

#2 Standard procedure for hand tapping brass and cast iron IS to do it dry.

#3 Using a sharp tap is a given ... A quality sharp tap used for dry hand tapping brass will stay sharp and serviceable a lot longer than you or I will.

#4 Dry vs. lubed .... Topic for a different thread ....

OK!

 

[byf43]

#1 What other kind of hole would you tap ... besides a threaded one?

#2 Standard procedure for hand tapping brass and cast iron IS to do it dry.


#4 Dry vs. lubed .... Topic for a different thread ....

Responses:

#2: Well, there was this girl at Band Camp.......

#4: Lubed is better. (See #2.)

 

[Traveler]

Dillon lube for me. I lay the cases out on an old cookie tray. A generous spray on the outside, every few cases, I spray at an angle to get inside. Let them dry thoroughly, about five minutes. That way, the alcohol evaporates, and does not take the lanolin away during the resizing.

I have done a bunch of 5.56 and 30-06. No issues to date, Dillon steel dies, not carbide.

 

[byf43]

Dillon lube for me. I lay the cases out on an old cookie tray. A generous spray on the outside, every few cases, I spray at an angle to get inside. Let them dry thoroughly, about five minutes. That way, the alcohol evaporates, and does not take the lanolin away during the resizing.

I have done a bunch of 5.56 and 30-06. No issues to date, Dillon steel dies, not carbide.

^^^ This. The only different part of my routine is I use RCBS Competition Dies for 5.56x45/.223, 7.62x51/.308 and '06, and I wipe the case neck and shoulder virtually dry, just before running them into the sizer die. (I've found this prevents any dents.)

Knock wood...... I've NEVER had a stuck case. (Watch. I'll go home and get 3 stuck, tonight.)

 

[SOMDSHOOT]

^^^ This. The only different part of my routine is I use RCBS Competition Dies for 5.56x45/.223, 7.62x51/.308 and '06, and I wipe the case neck and shoulder virtually dry, just before running them into the sizer die. (I've found this prevents any dents.)

Knock wood...... I've NEVER had a stuck case. (Watch. I'll go home and get 3 stuck, tonight.)

This is why I was baffled by the issue with this .223 brass. After processing several thousands of brass cases in several different calibers I was totally confused. I have never had the issues with anything else like I have with this .223 reloading adventure.

 

[Pinecone]

No, the point is, if the expanding ball sticks, you can pull the rim off the case.

Typically, this comes from having the ball too high, so it is trying to expand the neck before the neck comes fully out of the neck sizing area.

But it can occur with an oversize expander, or a sticking on the expander for other reasons.

Therefore, the carbide expander, with less drag, is less likely to have this occur.

 

[Pinecone]

But does it serve any purpose for the sizing ball to not get stuck in the case neck ?

Hmm, label on the can in the picture says "For Case Forming & Full Length Resizing."

That might be a HINT as to other use for the product.

 

[Magnumite]

"#1 What other kind of hole would you tap ... besides a threaded one?"

One taps an unthreaded hole to make it a threaded hole...or drills and/or retaps a threaded hole to create different diameter or pitch.

 

[SOMDSHOOT]

No, the point is, if the expanding ball sticks, you can pull the rim off the case.

Typically, this comes from having the ball too high, so it is trying to expand the neck before the neck comes fully out of the neck sizing area.

But it can occur with an oversize expander, or a sticking on the expander for other reasons.

Therefore, the carbide expander, with less drag, is less likely to have this occur.

Thanks. We deduced all this many replies ago.

 

[SOMDSHOOT]

Hmm, label on the can in the picture says "For Case Forming & Full Length Resizing."

That might be a HINT as to other use for the product.

Your reply has nothing to do with answering my question. Your reply tells us what happens on the outside ( which we already know... again ). I asked what happens on the inside.

 

[aethyr]

for too much friction inside a necked case I use,
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/319390/imperial-dry-neck-lube-1-oz-powder

dip the neck in a little plate of it like you are salting a glass.
wet lube inside the case is bad, you want your powder dry.

 

[Traveler]

for too much friction inside a necked case I use,
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/319390/imperial-dry-neck-lube-1-oz-powder

dip the neck in a little plate of it like you are salting a glass.
wet lube inside the case is bad, you want your powder dry.

Hence the letting it dry, so the alcohol evaporates. The lanolin that is left, has never caused any issues with my 5.56 rounds. They are making groups about the size of a quarter.

 

[byf43]

Just for _ _its and grins, TRY de-burring the casemouths BEFORE you size.

There MIGHT be enough of a 'burr' to prevent the expander ball from sliding out of the case, without 'hanging up', inside.


I also agree with polishing the expander ball.
I don't recall who's dies you're using, but, there could be some tiny scratches that's causing issues.

Just for _ _its and grins..... mic the expander ball to make sure it's the correct size.
(Stranger things have happened.)

 

[Pinecone]

Your reply has nothing to do with answering my question. Your reply tells us what happens on the outside ( which we already know... again ). I asked what happens on the inside.

It lubes it, prevently excessive case neck stretching (from being pulled and sized).

And if not removed, it can reduce the bullet pull, which can affect accuracy.

 

[IndispensableDestiny]

for too much friction inside a necked case I use,
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/319390/imperial-dry-neck-lube-1-oz-powder

Or you can use motor mica and not have black graphite all over the place.

 

[amoebicmagician]

Put the die in the freezer for a while before trying to extract that case.. it'll help..

^This

I've got my bits and pieces stuck together a few times and letting the metal contract in the freezer usually will give it just enough give to let whatever's binding come loose.