Stuck brass in resize die

[j8064]

If Lyman's C/S is anything like RCBS you'll be in good hands. It sucks that you could not remove the stuck case yourself, but you're not the first one who's ever stuck a case in a die.

Having FL sized thousands of cases using both Lee and RCBS dies as well as other brands here's an observation: Case lube is your friend - duh. And, rimless cases like 223 can be pulled from the S/H when they aren't lubed in the right places. As if I'm telling you something you don't now know.

Consider this in the future: different brands of S/H's fit cases differently. Personally I've found the RCBS S/H's grip cases much better than other brands - especially 223's. Make certain you occasionally lube inside the case mouths when sizing a batch so the decapping rod ball does not bind - especially when lowering the press ram and pulling the case from the die. Finally, get into the habit of FL sizing cases like 223 (and others) in increments rather than driving the entire case into the die with one stroke of the press handle. You'll be surprised how much difference there is between sizing force needed among a batch of cases even when they were all fired from the same gun on the same range trip - and how many stuck cases you'll prevent.

Not to worry, you'll stick another case in your dies sooner or later. And you'll be better prepared to minimize how often that happens moving forward.

 

[SneakySh0rty]

If Lyman's C/S is anything like RCBS you'll be in good hands. It sucks that you could not remove the stuck case yourself, but you're not the first one who's ever stuck a case in a die.

Having FL sized thousands of cases using both Lee and RCBS dies as well as other brands here's an observation: Case lube is your friend - duh. And, rimless cases like 223 can be pulled from the S/H when they aren't lubed in the right places. As if I'm telling you something you don't now know.

Consider this in the future: different brands of S/H's fit cases differently. Personally I've found the RCBS S/H's grip cases much better than other brands - especially 223's. Make certain you occasionally lube inside the case mouths when sizing a batch so the decapping rod ball does not bind - especially when lowering the press ram and pulling the case from the die. Finally, get into the habit of FL sizing cases like 223 (and others) in increments rather than driving the entire case into the die with one stroke of the press handle. You'll be surprised how much difference there is between sizing force needed among a batch of cases even when they were all fired from the same gun on the same range trip - and how many stuck cases you'll prevent.

Not to worry, you'll stick another case in your dies sooner or later. And you'll be better prepared to minimize how often that happens moving forward.

Thanks for the info. I've read about putting some lube on the inside lip of the casing. But with the lube pad set up, I found it a bit difficult to achieve that. I use my pointer finger to roll the necks more into the pad but it didnt seem as effective. Ill buy a spray lube in the future, in the mean time, I will continue to use the lyman lube on a lube pad till i run out of it. Since the fault was with me and not with the lube might as well finish the container before using another brand.

I decapped total of 800 rounds now. I substituted the neck size die with its decap rod to keep the process going. Unfortunately the brass wasnt fired from my own AR, so full resize is still necessary. With the full size shipped off, I can use that time to work on tumbling clean more rounds. Can also research more about powders/primers to use. Also, can take time to figure what i want to trim the cases to, Not sure if i should shoot for 1.760 or just a bit under. Been using SAAMI specs. http://www.saami.org/pubresources/cc_drawings/Rifle/223 Remington.pdf

 

[j8064]

All reloaders discover their favorite lubes and methods. Personally for 223 I use Lee paste lube. It's easy to have a dab on my left hand as a reservoir and transfer some to the cases with my right hand right before the case goes into the press for sizing. When the decapping ball starts to feel dry it's simple to wipe a little lube across a case mouth (every 8 to 10 cases sized). But, again, we all have our favorite ways.

For 223 reloads intended for an AR (or other semi-autos) you'd have better success FL sizing all cases every reload. Neck sizing is great for bolt rifles, but not so good for semi-autos.

We all find our favorites for powder and primers too. My AR's like Varget best, but will eat loads using a variety of other powders and deliver similar accuracy. So far I haven't found one brand of primer to be much different than another in AR plinking reloads. Don't discount SR mag primers for 223. In fact, the load data in Lyman's 47th edition is based on SR mag primers.

As always it's a matter of working up loads that work the best in your guns. Just like all the many build options the AR platform has, the reload options are equally many.

Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[guthook]

Thanks for the info. I've read about putting some lube on the inside lip of the casing. But with the lube pad set up, I found it a bit difficult to achieve that...

Do you have a nylon .22 cal. cleaning brush? If so, just roll it on the pad and run through the case opening a few times.

I decapped total of 800 rounds now. I substituted the neck size die with its decap rod to keep the process going. Unfortunately the brass wasnt fired from my own AR, so full resize is still necessary. With the full size shipped off, I can use that time to work on tumbling clean more rounds. Can also research more about powders/primers to use. Also, can take time to figure what i want to trim the cases to, Not sure if i should shoot for 1.760 or just a bit under. Been using SAAMI specs. http://www.saami.org/pubresources/cc_drawings/Rifle/223 Remington.pdf

1.760" is MAX length. Common practice is to trim to 1.750".

It's been argued a hundred times on this board, but I swear by a Small Base die instead of a standard Full Length sizing die. I've had issues in a few AR's with rounds not feeding when using the FL die. The SB die took care of all issues with feeding and even hard extraction of unfired rounds.

RCBS has a newer "AR series" of dies. They come with a Small Base sizing die.

Just something to keep in mind if you experience any issues.

BTW, Dillon spray pump case lube is great for lubing batches of bottleneck cases.

 

[j8064]

I have to agree with guthook on using a small base sizing die. Early on in reloading for my AR's a couple of my rifles didn't get along well with loads built with standard sizing dies. When I went to the RCBS small base die...no more issues.

 

[Pinecone]

Best thing.

Get a case gauge.

Gauge the cases and see if YOU need a small base die.

I am one who has not needed on. RCBS standard die for many thousands of .223. All loaded from once fired military brass.

 

[SneakySh0rty]

Do you have a nylon .22 cal. cleaning brush? If so, just roll it on the pad and run through the case opening a few times.

1.760" is MAX length. Common practice is to trim to 1.750".

It's been argued a hundred times on this board, but I swear by a Small Base die instead of a standard Full Length sizing die. I've had issues in a few AR's with rounds not feeding when using the FL die. The SB die took care of all issues with feeding and even hard extraction of unfired rounds.

RCBS has a newer "AR series" of dies. They come with a Small Base sizing die.

Just something to keep in mind if you experience any issues.

BTW, Dillon spray pump case lube is great for lubing batches of bottleneck cases.

I dont think i have any nylon for .22 cal. just all metal ones. I think it may be easier for me to take some of the lyman lube, take out the resize rod attached to the cap and lube it every few rounds. Not worried about the die or rod changing positions since both are locked in firmly.

Alright, I actually was setting up my case trimmer, and I cut one case to 1.755. I had an idea that if I cut it to the max, then i could reduce the amount of brass stretch for future loads. I still haven't decided after this initial reload, if to keep it firing out of the same AR (so just have to neck resize?), or have the ability of using my other one, or my dad using any of his ARs with my reloads (requiring full resize)

From everyone's suggestions so far, I think I will go with Dillon spray lube.

Best thing.
Get a case gauge.

Im actually quite embarrassed. I made notes of getting one, but completely forgot about actually purchasing one. Definitely a top priority.

I feel my thread is morphing into addressing all my reloading questions. Hopefully that's is fine.

Seems I have quite a bit more reading to do before I actually start loading anything into my brass. But atleast once I feel comfortable, the process of cleaning, de capping, sizing, swaging, and trimming will be done. Then I can jump right into the next part!

 

[Pinecone]

You can also use a Q-tip to lube inside the neck every so many rounds.

 

[guthook]

A case gauge will tell you if the round is to published specs. It doesn't tell you if the ammo will feed reliably in YOUR chamber, which may be tighter. You'll have to cycle or fire a few of your rounds to find out.

Neck sizing is NOT recommended for auto loading rifles. It is more reserved for bolt action rifles. You must full length resize to have reliable feeding in your AR. The round indexes on the shoulder, which must be bumped back after firing to avoid an out of battery detonation from incomplete bolt lockup. (Worst case scenario.) Best case, the round will not chamber.

Your bottlenecked brass will grow when fired no matter how long you leave it. The recommended 1.750" will let you get a firing or two before you have to do it again. Always measure your cases AFTER the sizing operation.

RCBS makes an "X-Die" that will attempt to keep the brass from stretching while sizing. The length is adjustable.

 

[SneakySh0rty]

A case gauge will tell you if the round is to published specs. It doesn't tell you if the ammo will feed reliably in YOUR chamber, which may be tighter. You'll have to cycle or fire a few of your rounds to find out.

Neck sizing is NOT recommended for auto loading rifles. It is more reserved for bolt action rifles. You must full length resize to have reliable feeding in your AR. The round indexes on the shoulder, which must be bumped back after firing to avoid an out of battery detonation from incomplete bolt lockup. (Worst case scenario.) Best case, the round will not chamber.

Your bottlenecked brass will grow when fired no matter how long you leave it. The recommended 1.750" will let you get a firing or two before you have to do it again. Always measure your cases AFTER the sizing operation.

RCBS makes an "X-Die" that will attempt to keep the brass from stretching while sizing. The length is adjustable.

What I meant was that with the neck only sizing die only after ive fired them through my own AR. I know I will have to fully resize them beforehand. I was just using the neck resize die to de cap rounds for now. I will definitely fully resize them before I run them through my own gun. My understanding once those rounds are fired from my own AR, the next time i reload them, as long as i use those in the same AR then I only need to do a neck resize?

I was taking measurements of the first 200 rounds I was able to fully resize before the stuck case happened.

In regards to the X-Die, I feel my Lyman one might do that already. Reading the literature included with my dies, it stated, "This extra die enables the reloader to extend case life by reducing the amount of stretching caused by excessive sizing."

 

[guthook]

What I meant was that with the neck only sizing die only after ive fired them through my own AR. I know I will have to fully resize them beforehand. I was just using the neck resize die to de cap rounds for now. I will definitely fully resize them before I run them through my own gun. My understanding once those rounds are fired from my own AR, the next time i reload them, as long as i use those in the same AR then I only need to do a neck resize?...

Neck sizing is mainly for bolt action rifles or single shot rifles that have the leverage to close the action on a partially expanded, fire-formed case. AR's do not have the ability to reliably produce this leverage and will give you feeding issues. This is why we like to full length size all of our cases for ARs, every time.

I'd much rather spend time shooting reliable ammunition than doing malfunction drills and mortaring my stock.

Get a nice .223 rem bolt action rifle if you want to use your neck sizing die. They can be scary accurate.

 

[Pinecone]

If your chamber is too tight to chamber a round that fits a proper case gauge, your chamber is NOT within specs. The case gauges are designed to gauge the case to the maximum SAAMI size for that cartridge. They SHOULD fit in any firearm with a chamber that is SAAMI minimum size and up.

If you have rounds that freely drop fully into a case gauge, and they do not chamber in your firearm, I would have a gunsmith check the firearm with go/no-go gauges.

They days, most precision long range rifle shooters full length resize their cases. But only set the shoulder back 1 - 2 thousandths if the rounds will be fired in the same rifle. Set back the should 3 - 5 thousandths for an semi auto rifle. If you are shooting the ammunition if several rifles, you need to size for the smallest chamber, or fully size to SAAMI specs (case gauge).

They also use a bushing die for the neck, to size exactly to the desired size. Standard dies size the neck down to below the desired size, then drag the expanding ball to open the next back up to the proper size. With a bushing die, you change the bushing (available in 0.001" increments) to size the neck to exactly the right size (typically about 0.002" below the size when the bullet is seated).

The over sizing then dragging the expanding ball through (many times without lube), is a big part of what stretches cases. They still stretch some, but not anywhere nearly as much as with standard dies.