Obsolete RCBS press questions

[Uncle Duke]

Ok, bought a Rockchucker with primer feeding attachment for $165, including shipping. It was clean and rust-free compared to many other offerings. Doesn't have the ball handle on the lever though.

Has the green handle that looks similar to bicycle handle grip material.
Look closely at the top of the frame, or if there alongside the die bushing. The 2 digit number you see will be the year of manufacture.

 

[Bountied]

Ok, bought a Rockchucker with primer feeding attachment for $165, including shipping. It was clean and rust-free compared to many other offerings. Doesn't have the ball handle on the lever though.

Mine has a green rubber grip, they all do the same thing.

 

[Bountied]

Has the green handle that looks similar to bicycle handle grip material.
Look closely at the top of the frame, or if there alongside the die bushing. The 2 digit number you see will be the year of manufacture.

I'll have to look for that number but I'm guessing it's late 60's early 70s'. My handle looks like what you described.

 

[Uncle Duke]

I'll have to look for that number but I'm guessing it's late 60's early 70s'. My handle looks like what you described.

It'll be small enough that you kind of.have to know to look closely, or you'll likely miss it. But it's there.

 

[Ponder_MD]

Ok, next dumb question:

I've purchased the FL Springfield .30-06 die set. I want extra decapping pins. Amazingly, I cannot find any info on what size pin is used for .30-06 or in this die set. I can find the complete "decapping unit" (with pin) for that caliber that goes into the die but it doesn't say what size pin is used.

I just want the pins so...what size do I need?

 

[4g64loser]

Ok, next dumb question:

I've purchased the FL Springfield .30-06 die set. I want extra decapping pins. Amazingly, I cannot find any info on what size pin is used for .30-06 or in this die set. I can find the complete "decapping unit" (with pin) for that caliber that goes into the die but it doesn't say what size pin is used.

I just want the pins so...what size do I need?

What brand of dies? Part number?

 

[Ponder_MD]

What brand of dies? Part number?

RCBS P/N: 14801

 

[4g64loser]

RCBS P/N: 14801

Buy Decap Pin and More | RCBS

Shopping for the Decap Pin - Learn more about the latest Replacement Parts and other hunting or shooting gear at RCBS.

www.rcbs.com

If you bought new dies (current production) you probably need headed pins.

If you bought older dies somewhere, remove the decapping unit from the sizing die, disassemble the front, and measure the pin. My guess is you would need "large". Small, xsmall, and straight were never used for 3006 to my knowledge. I've gone to mostly forster, whidden, harrel, and redding dies after some bad experiences dealing with Vista.

 

[Rockzilla]

For your dates as mentioned next to the die nut bushing on the top of the press, sometimes you will have to remove the bushing as it may be under it. 2 digits for the year. Also Hornady makes a conversion bushing system, thats the same as their LNL presses, remove the original RCBS bushing on top, screw in the Hornady bushing, then its basically "insert, twist and lock, the same to remove" works pretty good.
Generally you'll need large for the 30.06. Get a 5 pack if that's how they come. For Decapping purposes its the Mighty Armory dies for me, Decapping stems from CH Tool & Die.along with carbide buttons. Decap in runs, and go.
Mostly all my new dies are Mighty Armory, Redding. Others are Whidden (for certain rifles) I will pickup older sets of RCBS dies when my friends run across them.

The Rock Chucker is a great press, my first one from early 70's is still going strong, thousands of rounds...17 Rem and out ..


-Rock

 

[Uncle Duke]

Ok, next dumb question:

I've purchased the FL Springfield .30-06 die set. I want extra decapping pins. Amazingly, I cannot find any info on what size pin is used for .30-06 or in this die set. I can find the complete "decapping unit" (with pin) for that caliber that goes into the die but it doesn't say what size pin is used.

I just want the pins so...what size do I need?

Not at all a stupid question. Your answer is, it depends.

You'll need LARGE decap pins in older model RCBS dies. They are typically sold in a bag of 5 replacement pins. RCBS Part number is RC09609.

If you have a set of new production '06 dies that you just purchased from a supply house, those are using headed pins. Part number on those is RC90164.

When in doubt, with sizer die in hand, best bet is quick disassembly. A visual inspection of the pin will confirm the pin type.

A headed pins looks like a pin with a nail head on top of it. The old model pins are straight.

Edit: Should have mentioned also, if your RCBS dies are using headed pins, there are no large and small sizes, so don't bother hunting. RCBS Headed pins are one size fits all.

 

[Biggfoot44]

. All standard sizes.

The Lyman 310 " Nutcracker " hand press uses 5/8- 30 dies . The Lyman Tru Line Jr used the same . Those are pretty much the only exceptions ( Excluding the oversize .50 BMG presses ) .

The 310 is still made in limited numbers, the Tru Line Jr was superceded circa 1950 . If you did stumble into a Tru Line Jr at a yard sale , you could probably make a good trade/ sale to a Lyman collector.

The probability is slightly greater than zero to see a single stage press with 7/8- 14 die threads , but not take standard shell holders .

My father's circa 1940's Herter's press took 7/8‐ 14 dies , but the shell holding was built into the ram . i.e. swap rams for different case heads . In the 1970's he bought an aftermarket replacement Ram , machined to take standard ( RCBS style) shell holders.

 

[Biggfoot44]

Basically I've been torn between getting a progressive press and just keeping it simple with a standard press.
The main question seems to be "will you be reloading a lot of ammo and do you need to do it quickly?"

The answer is: I guess not, because thanks to inflation it's not really any more cost effective. Reloading gives me precise control over my loads and offers me the ability to experiment but it's not really saving me any money. Maybe a little if I reuse my brass 4X.

You done it now ! You will get double digit pages of replies , running 70- 30 telling you to go progressive.

You acknowledged the precise control , and ability to experiment with variables . As to Single vs Progressive , there's a factor of mass production of one load vs small batches of different loads .

*********************

I'm replying right after the quoted post.

( Yes , the lingering "new normal " primer prices , and still lagging new brass availability , are still altering the financial landscape .)

If the " not cost effective " statement is in the context of close range practice fmj 9mm and bulk grade .223/ 5.56 , that statement is close enough to true to round off to that way .

But outside of 9mm / .223/ .308 , the $ factor will range from medium to huge savings .

 

[lseries]

Spent primer tray and primer arm parts might be a different story as far as replacements if needed.

I broke the primer arm on mine several years ago. I emailed them, and they sent me a replacement for free. So they were still available then, and the customer service was second to none.

Believe me, this press owes me nothing! My dad and I got started loading with it before the Gun Control Act of 1968, and it's still going strong.

 

[Triggerfinger]

This. I have a RCBS rock chucker and a Hornady l-n-l progressive, each has their purpose.

Same here, and a Redding T-7. Nothing like over kill. Use the Rock Chucker most but do like the T-7. The Hornady is when I need to crank out the rounds.

 

[jr355]

Remember NOT to try and de-prime military brass with your current die set. Will break/bend de-capping rod/primer pins in die.The mil. primers are crimped and need a stand alone de-capper tool to remove and then a de-burring tool or small knife to remove the brass around the primer. Several companies sell a tool just to remove the crimp easier. Luck!

 

[Rockzilla]

As far as crimped in primers, and standard sizing dies, the only headstamps that has given me problems was "TAA" 5.56,
Even the "staked / stabbed" crimps have presented no problems, now all of this was not with new current production dies. Went with a Mighty Armory Decapping Die, just to see if it would handle the TAA stuff, no issues, while others bent / broke / snapped..Just a observation after thousands of cases. WRA, LC, WCC, WMA, FA, TW, IVI, PMC, etc.
Removal wise, swage, ream, even use a countersink for metal in a drill

Sorry off topic.

-Rock

 

[DaemonAssassin]

I have been reloading with friends' equipment. I do enjoy it. There is a lot of science behind it and seeing what goes into the production of a finished cartridge was eye-opening.

I did not purchase the single stage press last night. The auction ran out while I was searching for answers on parts availability. Since everyone is saying that I'll still want a single stage press alongside a mult-stage press, I may as well just buy a single stage and start out with that.

You can get a Dillon 550 and get a single stage and progressive on one press...

 

[dist1646]

Not positive. But if I'm not mistaken, the Partner presses are made with a cast aluminum frame, rather than heavier and stronger cast iron like the older JR3's. I think the later versions of the 3 could once be had as aluminum as well.

If your focus is used RCBS single stage, I would try to find a Rockchucker. That cast iron and compound leverage press will easily handle '06 rifle rounds, case forming, and anything else heavy that you're apt to want to do on a single stage. It will (quite literally) outlive your grandkids.

The Partner press was made out of cast iron, like the bigger presses. According to a test of multiple presses done by Precision Shooting magazine, the Partner press produced ammo with the least amount of runout. Pretty impressive considering how inexpensive they were. I still have one. The linkage is egged out after many years of hard use. Been thinking of getting new linkage but, I use a bigger press now.

 

[Uncle Duke]

The Partner press was made out of cast iron, like the bigger presses. According to a test of multiple presses done by Precision Shooting magazine, the Partner press produced ammo with the least amount of runout. Pretty impressive considering how inexpensive they were. I still have one. The linkage is egged out after many years of hard use. Been thinking of getting new linkage but, I use a bigger press now.

RCBS shows the Partner as being a die cast aluminum frame. Maybe a change from earlier models. I can't say for certain.

Wouldn't surprise me if they sent you needed linkage parts at no charge. Even when I tell them up front that a replacement part I need is absolutely no fault of theirs, they send it free. The customer service they deliver has been, for me at least, second to none.

Partner Press | RCBS

Buy Partner Press at RCBS, the leading producer of high-quality reloading equipment supplies for over 60 years.

www.rcbs.com

 

[dist1646]

RCBS shows the Partner as being a die cast aluminum frame. Maybe a change from earlier models. I can't say for certain.

Wouldn't surprise me if they sent you needed linkage parts at no charge. Even when I tell them up front that a replacement part I need is absolutely no fault of theirs, they send it free. The customer service they deliver has been, for me at least, second to none.

Partner Press | RCBS

Buy Partner Press at RCBS, the leading producer of high-quality reloading equipment supplies for over 60 years.

www.rcbs.com

Yes, they must have changed the materiel the frame is made of since I bought mine. I bought it back in the early '80's. I may eventually see about replacement linkage, only use it to prime cases for now.