Weber
USMC
I picked up my first score of wheel weights today. Almost 100lbs.
Next phase of reloading, casting...
- Thread starter Weber
- Start date
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j8064
Garrett Co Hooligan #1
Absolutely a waste of time!
GFY....
(PS: Make sure each WW has 3% antimony because it doesn't evaporate...
)
GFY....
(PS: Make sure each WW has 3% antimony because it doesn't evaporate...
)
have fun, I always do. just try and be as safe as possible. wear safety glasses, gloves and a long sleeve shirt.
also try and sort the "shiny" zinc ones and any others that look odd.
just my 2 cents
also try and sort the "shiny" zinc ones and any others that look odd.
just my 2 cents
Deep Creek Rock
.._. .._ _._. _._ .._
I already see non lead alloy weights in that bucket, but you do have a bunch of lead ones!
Make sure to sort them out, before you melt them!
Make sure to sort them out, before you melt them!
Winterborn
Moved to Texas
Welcome to the jungle.....
While you're at it, look into powdercoating the lead rounds vs traditional lube, might be interested.
While you're at it, look into powdercoating the lead rounds vs traditional lube, might be interested.
Only a Lead Whore / Hoarder would pay that much attention to a picture.
The word coming down to the flatands is that you have accumulated 3% if the surplus
lead in the state of Md. Be careful the State of Md has set up a clandestine lead reclamation unit and will come seize your excessive supply and redistribute it to all the needy bullet casters that can't go out and find there own.
Weber
USMC
Yeah, I'm going to bring it back to be filled again.
Deep Creek Rock
.._. .._ _._. _._ .._
Cowboy T
Active Member
If you have a thermometer and are careful to keep the temperature below 650 deg F (preferably 600, I've discovered), you don't have to sort the wheel weights beforehand. The steel ones won't melt below around 2,500 deg. F. As for the zinc ones, zinc's melting point is 787 deg. F. So, as long as you stay well below that, you're fine.
I find 600 deg. F. to be optimal for a few reasons.
1.) It's hot enough to melt the "good" wheel weights without cooling down during the ladling process. Lead alloy at 600 deg. flows very well.
2.) It's not so hot that you get the yellow and purple haze on the top. That's oxidation, and while it isn't a huge deal, why not avoid it if you can?
3.) It's far enough below zinc's melting point that the zinc weights'll just float to the top, along with the steel ones, where you can just spoon 'em out.
I find 600 deg. F. to be optimal for a few reasons.
1.) It's hot enough to melt the "good" wheel weights without cooling down during the ladling process. Lead alloy at 600 deg. flows very well.
2.) It's not so hot that you get the yellow and purple haze on the top. That's oxidation, and while it isn't a huge deal, why not avoid it if you can?
3.) It's far enough below zinc's melting point that the zinc weights'll just float to the top, along with the steel ones, where you can just spoon 'em out.
