Motor Oil as a lube

[Arcticwolf]

Ok so I have been reading around about using motor oil as a lube and I am tempted to use Mobile 1 synthetic in my ar as a lube. Has anyone else tried this? Whats the difference between using synthetic and non synthetic? (I tried search bar to find topic related couldn't)

-Arctic

 

[KevinB]

http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=32427

 

[ezeerider]

I did this just yesterday. I picked up the lower I got from PDI when he did the after Thanksgiving sale..... $50..... sweet. I had it shipped to Lock, Stock & Barrel in Taneytown and forgot all about it til last week. Well I picked it up yesterday morning and built my AR using a cheap complete upper that I got in Chantilly last year. I have like $439 into this rifle. Anyway, Chad at Scotts Gunsmithing told me he used Mobil 1 to lube his rifles, so I figured I'd give it a shot. I assembled my AR using Mobil 1 and shot four 30 round mags thru it yesterday without a hiccup. So far its working great. Try it.

 

[august1410]

Can I safely assume you are asking in a firearms capacity?

 

[jonnyl]

Can I safely assume you are asking in a firearms capacity?

Multi use! I'd stay away from the Break-Free though!

 

[august1410]

Multi use! I'd stay away from the Break-Free though!

Unless you have one of those Russian Mail Order Brides......it gets the cosmoline off of them.

 

[Arcticwolf]

http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=32427

You are the man lol sry

 

[jonnyl]

Unless you have one of those Russian Mail Order Brides......it gets the cosmoline off of them.

Especially the older C&R ones!

 

[Arcticwolf]

Especially the older C&R ones!

ew

 

[Grampa G]

Especially the older C&R ones!

Just wrap them in newspaper and leave them in the truck.

 

[alucard0822]

Motor oil works well as a lube, synthetic is a little more stable at high temperatures and pressures than conventional, the viscosity is also more stable at low temperatures. There are some thins ou do need to keep in mind though. When subjected to temps above 250 degress it breaks down, and turns to a thick dirty sludge, so keep it away from anything that will get that hot. It also has some hydroscopic properties, meaning that motor oil can contain moisture. In an engine with a gallon of oil, this is a good thing, it contains the moisture that occurs from condensation, and being the engine heats up every time it runs, the moisture burns off regularly. In a gun, this means you can get rust right through the thin coat of oil as it holds moisture, and if you oil the outside of the barrel, and shoot a lot of rounds fast, you get burned up oil that is a pain to clean. It also is designed to stick to itself, and scrape off of metal without leaving a residue behind. In a gun, this means that it doe not penetrate small surfaces well, and with parts that have a tight fit, the oil can get scraped away quickly where thinner "gun oil" keeps the film in between tight fitting parts.

Ideally motor oil works in an action that will be cleaned and shot regularly, for storage more than a week, use a corrosion inhibiting gun oil, like rem-oil or Ezox, use thin grease like tetra on parts that will see a lot of high friction, like barrel hoods, locking lugs, and slide rails, and a metal penetrating or dry lube like militec on direct contact parts, like trigger pins or hammer bodies. Everyone has their favorite snake oil when it comes to guns, and some brands and oil types work better is some guns, for me, I use EzOx for corrosion protection, tetra grease for slides, locking lugs, and trigger bars, rem-oil for wiping down the outside, and militec for trigger group parts. A little complicated, but it works for me.

 

[ezeerider]

wow... great post Alucard.

 

[Numidian]

Motor oil works well as a lube, synthetic is a little more stable at high temperatures and pressures than conventional, the viscosity is also more stable at low temperatures. There are some thins ou do need to keep in mind though. When subjected to temps above 250 degress it breaks down, and turns to a thick dirty sludge, so keep it away from anything that will get that hot. It also has some hydroscopic properties, meaning that motor oil can contain moisture. In an engine with a gallon of oil, this is a good thing, it contains the moisture that occurs from condensation, and being the engine heats up every time it runs, the moisture burns off regularly. In a gun, this means you can get rust right through the thin coat of oil as it holds moisture, and if you oil the outside of the barrel, and shoot a lot of rounds fast, you get burned up oil that is a pain to clean. It also is designed to stick to itself, and scrape off of metal without leaving a residue behind. In a gun, this means that it doe not penetrate small surfaces well, and with parts that have a tight fit, the oil can get scraped away quickly where thinner "gun oil" keeps the film in between tight fitting parts.

Ideally motor oil works in an action that will be cleaned and shot regularly, for storage more than a week, use a corrosion inhibiting gun oil, like rem-oil or Ezox, use thin grease like tetra on parts that will see a lot of high friction, like barrel hoods, locking lugs, and slide rails, and a metal penetrating or dry lube like militec on direct contact parts, like trigger pins or hammer bodies. Everyone has their favorite snake oil when it comes to guns, and some brands and oil types work better is some guns, for me, I use EzOx for corrosion protection, tetra grease for slides, locking lugs, and trigger bars, rem-oil for wiping down the outside, and militec for trigger group parts. A little complicated, but it works for me.

I personally have started using 0w30 full synthetic. It's as thin as motor oil comes and from just looks, it seems to be almost the exact same viscosity as CLP, which is what I was using before.

 

[Luke 12:49]

I personally have started using 0w30 full synthetic. It's as thin as motor oil comes and from just looks, it seems to be almost the exact same viscosity as CLP, which is what I was using before.

From wikipedia.org of course.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

A single-grade engine oil, as defined by SAE J300, cannot use a polymeric Viscosity Index Improver (also referred to as Vicosity Modifier) additive. SAE J300 has established eleven viscosity grades, of which six are considered Winter-grades and given a W designation. The 11 viscosity grades are 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60. These numbers are often referred to as the 'weight' of a motor oil.

 

[pcfixer]

I concur. Synthetic Motor oil is a great gun lubricant.
Try AMSOIL MP Heavy Duty Metal Protector.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amh.aspx
You can find a local dealer on the website.

 

[Numidian]

From wikipedia.org of course.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

What are you correcting me on or showing me?

 

[mvee]

I met an M2 gunner that swore by ATF liberally applied with a spray bottle.

 

[Scott's Gunsmithing]

I agree with everything posted except for the Tetra and Miltec suggestions. Both are poor performers/products, IMO

Breakfree CLP, 30W Syn/ Motor Oil, and Syn. Wheel Bearing Grease are more cost effective and more compatible with each other when they inetivebly mix in the weapon.

Miltec is a terrible gun product, and I will never deviate from that premise.

 

[smokey]

I agree with everything posted except for the Tetra and Miltec suggestions. Both are poor performers/products, IMO

Breakfree CLP, 30W Syn/ Motor Oil, and Syn. Wheel Bearing Grease are more cost effective and more compatible with each other when they inetivebly mix in the weapon.

Miltec is a terrible gun product, and I will never deviate from that premise.

good ol state boys...
www.militec-1.com/marylandpolice2.pdf

i don't trust militec as a protectant, but it does a nice job of making parts slippery when baked in to them and makes it easier to wipe off the gunk. the easiest place to see this is the feed ramp. try some militec on the feed ramp and then compare cleaning before and after. after militec'ing the feedramp a microfiber cloth completely wipes everything off.

 

[smokey]

I agree with everything posted except for the Tetra and Miltec suggestions. Both are poor performers/products, IMO

Breakfree CLP, 30W Syn/ Motor Oil, and Syn. Wheel Bearing Grease are more cost effective and more compatible with each other when they inetivebly mix in the weapon.

Miltec is a terrible gun product, and I will never deviate from that premise.

what in particular don't you like about tetra or militec? the carrier grease isn't bad by itself and with the ptfe in it seems to do nice at lasting.