Lee 4 die pistol dies

[Song Dog]

Do you really need to use the factory resizing die included with the set after the seating die ?

 

[Vision]

The resizing die is the first die to be used in the process, then the powder drop, then the seating die, and finally the crimp die. If you are asking if the crimp die is necessary after the seating die, it depends. No if you are just making plinking rounds, recommended for competition rounds or for times when the rounds may get jostled around significantly prior to shooting.

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[lx1x]

The resizing die is the first die to be used in the process, then the powder drop, then the seating die, and finally the crimp die. If you are asking if the crimp die is necessary after the seating die, it depends. No if you are just making plinking rounds, recommended for competition rounds or for times when the rounds may get jostled around significantly prior to shooting.

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Actually you need to remove the flare out...

Steps:
resize (die 1)
Prime
Bell/flare (die 2)
Powder charge
Seat bullets (die 3)
Factory Crimp (die 4)

 

[Vision]

I thought on the lee dies that the resize and the flare out happened on the first die, but i could (easily) be wrong on that.

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[lx1x]

I thought on the lee dies that the resize and the flare out happened on the first die, but i could (easily) be wrong on that.

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Nah. Separate dies..hence 4 dies.

 

[Nanook]

Need? Not really as above.

Should? Yep. It makes them sparkley and magical and makes them hit the X ring with every shot. YMMV.

 

[Soundman1]

#1- De-cap/Resize
#2- Flare/Powder drop
#3- Bullet seat or Bullet seat/Crimp
#4- Factory crimp

 

[FlatsFlite]

#1- De-cap/Resize
#2- Flare/Powder drop
#3- Bullet seat or Bullet seat/Crimp
#4- Factory crimp

Bingo

 

[ihriec]

You definitely need to resize using the de-cap/resizing die otherwise the bullet will go too far into the case. Found that out the hard way.

 

[R357]

By memory the forth factory crimping die also includes a post sizer as well.
Not something that should touch a vast majority of your cases when they pass through but it will keep a few rounds from finding thier way to the reject pile.

Personally I liked the results of using it enough to run it in the last station of a Dillon 650 when I am loading 9mm.

 

[DocAitch]

The third die is a seat/crimp die (unless things have changed lately).
The crimp is adjusted by turning the die body up and down, the seating is adjusted by the stem.
I gave up using them in this manner and use the 4th die as a crimp and final sizer. The final sizing is a security blanket for me especially when I used to compete.
I can see that this would be an issue for this with single stage presses because it means using a fourth die, and for those with Lee Pro 1000s which only have 3 stations.
DocAitch

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

Crimp your pistol rounds in a seperate step instead of setting your seating die to crimp and seat at the same time. Especially if you are loading a cast bullet.

Handloader mag had a pretty good article a few issues back showing the damage done to bullets that are seated, and crimped in one step.

 

[Song Dog]

#1- De-cap/Resize
#2- Flare/Powder drop
#3- Bullet seat or Bullet seat/Crimp
#4- Factory crimp

I'm loading copper plated pills on a single stage press; set die # 3 to seat & crimp without using Die # 4. The crimps look like factory done to me so was trying to save bench time.

Lee also sells 3 die pistol sets so guess Die # 3 also seats & crimps ?

Thanks for all your posts

 

[243hunter]

haven't looked lately but IIRC the seating die is also a factory crimp die. the other crimp die is a roll crimp die

 

[j8064]

I'm loading copper plated pills on a single stage press; set die # 3 to seat & crimp without using Die # 4. The crimps look like factory done to me so was trying to save bench time.

Lee also sells 3 die pistol sets so guess Die # 3 also seats & crimps ?

Thanks for all your posts

You can seat and crimp in one step with the seating die if it's adjusted correctly and every case length in your batch is uniform. But then reality takes over on the reloading bench.

First, your seating die will deliver a roll crimp. Semi-auto guns generally headspace on the case mouth. Depending on the intended firearm, taper crimps are much better on many calibers. The Lee factory crimp dies for your round can be set to deliver the proper crimp and outer case dimensions that should reliably and successfully feed.

Plated bullets make terrific plinking rounds. I shoot them routinely in many different calibers. But with too much roll crimp you risk cutting into the plating so far that the rear portion of the plating "could" remain in the gun's barrel.

I have and use many Lee die sets. Over time I've added a factory crimp die to those sets where I didn't have one.

My preference is to crimp as a final 4th step.

 

[Soundman1]

haven't looked lately but IIRC the seating die is also a factory crimp die. the other crimp die is a roll crimp die

I believe the Lee Seating/crimp die taper crimps initially ... if adjusted deeper it roll crimps.

Crimp your pistol rounds in a seperate step instead of setting your seating die to crimp and seat at the same time. Especially if you are loading a cast bullet.

Handloader mag had a pretty good article a few issues back showing the damage done to bullets that are seated, and crimped in one step.

I was taught not to use the Lee Factory crimp die on cast bullets.
Plated bullets are treated the same as jacketed bullets ... taper crimped

 

[j8064]

I believe the Lee Seating/crimp die taper crimps initially ... if adjusted deeper it roll crimps.

I was taught not to use the Lee Factory crimp die on cast bullets.
Plated bullets are treated the same as jacketed bullets ... taper crimped

Evidently you were taught by someone who did not know there is a major difference between FMJ and plated bullets in their design, intent and performance. Not to mention the use of published reloading data for cast bullets is definitely more applicable to plated than the hotter loads tested for FMJ projectiles.

Do yourself a favor. Learn.

 

[Biggfoot44]

Before there Were such things as Factory Crimp Dies , we didn't know any better , and used the seat/ crimp die by default. It usually worked fine.

If you wanted to be really pants and suspenders , you could frequently redjust the die body , and the seating stem to seat and crimp in seperate steps.

For the proverbialy magnum revolver , with heavy loads of hard to ignite ball powder, there was the Reading Profile Crimp die.

In worst case scenarios of particlarily long bullets and thick walled cases , the final resizing of FCD would help , but that's not typical.

The FCD in a 4die set is inexpensive enough that it's better to have one just in case than not. But plenty of sub 1in pistol ammo has been loaded with 3dies.

And LEE dies will be roll crimp OR taper, usually depending on cal. A few cals offer both. For real trivia questions a few cals changed spec ( on crimp type ) at certain point in history.

 

[diesel-man]

If you are using "Glocked" brass, then you need the 4 die set.

https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-bulge-buster-90487.html

 

[Soundman1]

Evidently you were taught by someone who did not know there is a major difference between FMJ and plated bullets in their design, intent and performance. Not to mention the use of published reloading data for cast bullets is definitely more applicable to plated than the hotter loads tested for FMJ projectiles.

Do yourself a favor. Learn.

I favor myself by trying to learn something new every day .....

Again ... I would treat plated and jacketed the same as far as they both should be taper crimped as I implied. I do realize the differences as far as load/velocity limitations.

Cast bullets ... I prefer roll crimping ... especially .45 ACP.

Differences in loads was not part of the topic of this thread.