Cannon Safe from Costco - Review and questions

[Oldcarjunkie]

As its always said.. Buy bigger..
While I Love my safe....
You might not havea problem but I have a slight problem with the door hitting and dinging the rifles n the 48 gun cannon I have. It hits the bottoms of the rifles when the door is shut thus dinging them. It's a design flaw from what I can tell, just needs a few more inches there. The safe you have pictured has the rails going the other way so you might not hit them with the door, that's a good thing, but I couldn't even put the pistols on the door like you have, it would be hitting rifles.
The rifles rods are Great! I hadn't them in my old safe and I'll probably buy sme more for this one and more velcro. It may keep my front rifles more straight up and not let the door hit them.. For the time being I added window installation stick on strip at the bottom of the door. Btw i got my 48 gun, cannon from tractor supply for 750.00 otd. Black Friday sale.

 

[NickZac]

What do the pros say about its security though ?

I'm not a pro, but the safe may or may not withstand a brute force attack from the side for more than a few minutes. The side plates are about .104 inches thick, and the composites used are probably not dense enough to act as additional armor. The attack itself will really depend on the level of security a safe does or does not supply. As a general rule, anything labeled 'gun safe' is going to provide security towards the lower end of the spectrum.

With that said, it sounds like the OP is making an environment to make the safe tougher. This is a major part of securing valuables. Bolting it is a big one, as is the alarm system mentioned. If he is placing it in a tight corner to make getting tools in more difficult, this will help too. Ideally, you want to force a criminal to go through the front, as the sides are vulnerable to a fire-axe attack. Safe experts are really good about this placement and know how to make a safe safer by design and environmental manipulation.

 

[rouchna]

As its always said.. Buy bigger..
While I Love my safe....
You might not havea problem but I have a slight problem with the door hitting and dinging the rifles n the 48 gun cannon I have. It hits the bottoms of the rifles when the door is shut thus dinging them. It's a design flaw from what I can tell, just needs a few more inches there. The safe you have pictured has the rails going the other way so you might not hit them with the door, that's a good thing, but I couldn't even put the pistols on the door like you have, it would be hitting rifles.
The rifles rods are Great! I hadn't them in my old safe and I'll probably buy sme more for this one and more velcro. It may keep my front rifles more straight up and not let the door hit them.. For the time being I added window installation stick on strip at the bottom of the door. Btw i got my 48 gun, cannon from tractor supply for 750.00 otd. Black Friday sale.

Damn, that's a great price. As for the door hitting the rifles, I have not encountered that problem. I also thought the pistols on the door would be an issue but I positioned them so they wouldn't hit the shelf. I will definitely look into the rifle rods.

I'm not a pro, but the safe may or may not withstand a brute force attack from the side for more than a few minutes. The side plates are about .104 inches thick, and the composites used are probably not dense enough to act as additional armor. The attack itself will really depend on the level of security a safe does or does not supply. As a general rule, anything labeled 'gun safe' is going to provide security towards the lower end of the spectrum.

With that said, it sounds like the OP is making an environment to make the safe tougher. This is a major part of securing valuables. Bolting it is a big one, as is the alarm system mentioned. If he is placing it in a tight corner to make getting tools in more difficult, this will help too. Ideally, you want to force a criminal to go through the front, as the sides are vulnerable to a fire-axe attack. Safe experts are really good about this placement and know how to make a safe safer by design and environmental manipulation.

The safe is located in a very tight corner of the room. It was a pain in the ass just moving it there. I plan to bolt it down this weekend. I think it will do a good enough job to keep wandering hands away and if a crook can make it past the alarm, the dogs, and be able to locate the safe and break into it, more power to him.

 

[NickZac]

The safe is located in a very tight corner of the room. It was a pain in the ass just moving it there. I plan to bolt it down this weekend. I think it will do a good enough job to keep wandering hands away and if a crook can make it past the alarm, the dogs, and be able to locate the safe and break into it, more power to him.

All that makes a huge difference.

The combination of all of those things creates a very intimidating environment towards a criminal.

 

[N3YMY]

What do the pros say about its security though ?

Dunno, but I will say this; if it's got less than 7ga steel, it won't standup to a fire axe attack:

http://www.sturdysafe.com/gaugethicknesswar.htm

FWIW, I recently looked at cannon safes at RJ Lock in Hagerstown, MD before purchasing from Sturdy Safe and the walls on the cannons they had on the shows room floor only had 12ga steel :-/

 

[Mark C]

Location can help improve security considerably. The only way a burglar would be able to swing an axe at my safe is if he first chopped through a wall. Not tough, but does add to the time requirement.

 

[Baccusboy]

Dunno, but I will say this; if it's got less than 7ga steel, it won't standup to a fire axe attack:

http://www.sturdysafe.com/gaugethicknesswar.htm

FWIW, I recently looked at cannon safes at RJ Lock in Hagerstown, MD before purchasing from Sturdy Safe and the walls on the cannons they had on the shows room floor only had 12ga steel :-/

For what it's worth, even many more expensive safes only have 10 or 12 gauge steel. Seems to be the norm. Check out Liberty safe's... same thing, even on the more expensive ones! This is completely unacceptable to me, and yes, I am a fan of Sturdy Safe's. Someone on this site or another said they are backordered 4 months now.

 

[NickZac]

For what it's worth, even many more expensive safes only have 10 or 12 gauge steel. Seems to be the norm. Check out Liberty safe's... same thing, even on the more expensive ones! This is completely unacceptable to me, and yes, I am a fan of Sturdy Safe's. Someone on this site or another said they are backordered 4 months now.

10-12 gauge is literally a break in sometimes that is measured in seconds. The 7 gauge is still not all that thick. You are talking .18 inches. I am curious as to if Sturdy Safe has been tested by the UL for a non-fire (break-in) test.

A TL-30 gun safe has literally 6 times the thickness of 7ga with better welds, higher quality steel, and a superior lock, so the level of security can vary as much as owner need.
http://www.deansafe.com/ams-rf6528.html

 

[niftyvt]

For what it's worth, even many more expensive safes only have 10 or 12 gauge steel. Seems to be the norm. Check out Liberty safe's... same thing, even on the more expensive ones! This is completely unacceptable to me, and yes, I am a fan of Sturdy Safe's. Someone on this site or another said they are backordered 4 months now.

Sturdy quoted me 7-8 weeks, then another week for it to get to my house.

If I could afford a TL-30 I would get one but the Stury will do for now.

 

[NickZac]

Sturdy quoted me 7-8 weeks, then another week for it to get to my house.

If I could afford a TL-30 I would get one but the Stury will do for now.

You can get the AMVAULT for a few bucks more than some of the Sturdy models in a similar size. (Of course the inside dimensions will be a lot smaller because of the thick walls and door.
)(http://www.westcoastsafes.com/cf552...s-p-69.html?osCsid=giphqpc8vndh4b81n7enp9qeb7)


(edit: Blue Dot offers a TL-15 and TL-30 for about 3k in the size of around 65x30x30-ish.) (also, is the Sturdy rated TL-15, C, or RSC?)

 

[briwayjones]

It looks like to me if you cut out the center portion of the rack leaving just the perimeter around the edges of the safe you could fit more guns in there? And may be a little easier to get to them.

 

[niftyvt]

You can get the AMVAULT for a few bucks more than some of the Sturdy models in a similar size. (Of course the inside dimensions will be a lot smaller because of the thick walls and door.
)(http://www.westcoastsafes.com/cf552...s-p-69.html?osCsid=giphqpc8vndh4b81n7enp9qeb7)


(edit: Blue Dot offers a TL-15 and TL-30 for about 3k in the size of around 65x30x30-ish.) (also, is the Sturdy rated TL-15, C, or RSC?)

If by a "a few bucks more" you mean 1.5 the price not including shipping then your right Maybe $1500, not including shipping, is not that much to you but that’s huge to me (it’s a mortgage payment!)

Also, I would have to build my own interior (time and more money, and I just don’t have the tools or skill to do a decent job). I cant tell if it has a electrical hole or not but from reading the description it looks like it doesn’t have one, which I need for a dry rod and lights.

If I had $4k and change for a safe, maybe, but I didn’t, I had $2k, so I got a $2k fire lined Sturdy. I am shoe horning the Sturdy into a closet and the closet will get a reinforced door and its own alarm sensors. So for now this is plenty, my collecting isn’t worth that much right now anyways (I spend way more on training than I do on hardware). In the future I will get a TL-30 but, being a new home owner and only 2 years out of school, I have lots of bills to pay and not much money to do it with.

Sturdy is just an RSC, one of the toughest RSCs out there but still an RSC (I am not kidding myself on this point). If you are interested in reading about the Sturdy you could go to their site. . .I am not going to spend the time to regurgitate what they detail on their website here.

 

[NickZac]

If by a "a few bucks more" you mean 1.5 the price not including shipping then your right Maybe $1500, not including shipping, is not that much to you but that’s huge to me (it’s a mortgage payment!)

Also, I would have to build my own interior (time and more money, and I just don’t have the tools or skill to do a decent job). I cant tell if it has a electrical hole or not but from reading the description it looks like it doesn’t have one, which I need for a dry rod and lights.

If I had $4k and change for a safe, maybe, but I didn’t, I had $2k, so I got a $2k fire lined Sturdy. I am shoe horning the Sturdy into a closet and the closet will get a reinforced door and its own alarm sensors. So for now this is plenty, my collecting isn’t worth that much right now anyways (I spend way more on training than I do on hardware). In the future I will get a TL-30 but, being a new home owner and only 2 years out of school, I have lots of bills to pay and not much money to do it with.

Sturdy is just an RSC, one of the toughest RSCs out there but still an RSC (I am not kidding myself on this point). If you are interested in reading about the Sturdy you could go to their site. . .I am not going to spend the time to regurgitate what they detail on their website here.

I guess figures are relative. I've found the AMVAULT for a about 1,000 more, but the weight of it will probably mean a fortune in shipping. If Sturdy is RSC than it's been tested and found to be very good. To my understanding, most people are going to struggle getting through something that has passed the RSC test and every safe I've ever seen with that label is a hell of a lot beefier than the standard 12 gauge 'gun safes'. The videos I have seen of the RSC tests seem to have the same level of intense attack when testing the TL-15s/. For what I personally own, a RSC is more than enough.

Insurance companies will give a discount on a RSC safe...well, mine sure does. IIRC insurance advises a TL-15 for about $100-150k of valuables and a TL-30 for $150-400k. I imagine for some members here that they have collections in that ballpark although if someone wanted to break into my house expecting that much, they would be terribly disappointed.

 

[Yellowdog]

I picked up a couple of the megabrite LED lights from Costco last night. Put them in my safe and am very happy. Just like a refrigerator, open the door and the lights come on. Close the door and they go off, or at least I think so.

 

[Beemer]

You can do lots of measuring and go to a home depot and have them cut the raw board to your sizes. The safe carpeting can be ordered cheaply online or ebay for a few bucks and with an aerosol can of auto upholstery glue and a razor you can glue and trim the carpet easily. If I can do it, anyone can. LOL

 

[cunninghamrjr]

They are sold out now. Guess I an waiting for the next round.

 

[corbex]

I picked up a couple of the megabrite LED lights from Costco last night. Put them in my safe and am very happy. Just like a refrigerator, open the door and the lights come on. Close the door and they go off, or at least I think so.

Ok, set your video to record on your phone and close the door. You can never be sure!!

 

[G20]

For what it's worth, even many more expensive safes only have 10 or 12 gauge steel. Seems to be the norm. Check out Liberty safe's... same thing, even on the more expensive ones! This is completely unacceptable to me, and yes, I am a fan of Sturdy Safe's. Someone on this site or another said they are backordered 4 months now.

It's an 8 week lei time.

 

[G20]

10-12 gauge is literally a break in sometimes that is measured in seconds. The 7 gauge is still not all that thick. You are talking .18 inches. I am curious as to if Sturdy Safe has been tested by the UL for a non-fire (break-in) test.

A TL-30 gun safe has literally 6 times the thickness of 7ga with better welds, higher quality steel, and a superior lock, so the level of security can vary as much as owner need.
http://www.deansafe.com/ams-rf6528.html

For someone that does not know anything about Sturdy Safes, you sure seem to know a lot about Sturdy Safes to make all of those comparisons.

As for steel thickness, there is a significant difference between 12 gauge and 7 gauge and it's the difference between someone penetrating the wall on the side of the safe with a hammer or axe and not penetrating the wall. The fact is 7 gauge is not only A LOT better than what is found used on safes in the same price point, but also a lot of the higher dollar safes. In addition to thickness, another important aspect to the steel is the quality. There is a difference between steel from China or Mexico vs. US made steel. And as I pointed out previously if one chooses the fire insulation option, one gets an extra layer of steel thus effectively increasing the overall thickness or better yet if your budget allows go even thicker.

Sturdy has not submitted their safes for UL testing because it is VERY expensive for one. The owner reviews speak for themselves to include several reported unsuccessful break-in attempts and lock-smiths who arrived after a break-in only to spend hours trying to get the safe open - it was that difficult. Now you can point to all of the ul ratings you want, but it does not negate the fact Sturdy builds a hell of a safe/RSC.

The fact of the matter is no safe is impenetrable, it is all about buying (literally) some time and the level of security you can afford.

 

[G20]

If by a "a few bucks more" you mean 1.5 the price not including shipping then your right Maybe $1500, not including shipping, is not that much to you but that’s huge to me (it’s a mortgage payment!)

Also, I would have to build my own interior (time and more money, and I just don’t have the tools or skill to do a decent job). I cant tell if it has a electrical hole or not but from reading the description it looks like it doesn’t have one, which I need for a dry rod and lights.

If I had $4k and change for a safe, maybe, but I didn’t, I had $2k, so I got a $2k fire lined Sturdy. I am shoe horning the Sturdy into a closet and the closet will get a reinforced door and its own alarm sensors. So for now this is plenty, my collecting isn’t worth that much right now anyways (I spend way more on training than I do on hardware). In the future I will get a TL-30 but, being a new home owner and only 2 years out of school, I have lots of bills to pay and not much money to do it with.

Sturdy is just an RSC, one of the toughest RSCs out there but still an RSC (I am not kidding myself on this point). If you are interested in reading about the Sturdy you could go to their site. . .I am not going to spend the time to regurgitate what they detail on their website here.

And you made a GREAT choice. Don't get to hung up on all of the marketing and acronyms, since it often boils down to who paid for what tests/label. Sturdy safes are battlefield tested.

Remember you're only talking about "buying" a little bit more time with a concrete lined higher guage steel safe. It's probably a safe assumption so say that most snatch-and-grab thieves do not show up with a saw, drill or plasma cutter, or even an axe, but if they "see" the safe they will attempt to open it up with whatever they can find laying around yoru garage or workshop - the best defense is concealment. Depending on the value of your collection it may not be worth spending $5k+ on a safe - there is a law of diminishing returns.