Vile Shadow
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- Feb 28, 2013
- 28,953
What qualifies as C&R? 50 years old right?
That goes 50 years back IIRC, so pre-66.
What qualifies as C&R? 50 years old right?
Get an AR 15 lower and 2 uppers. Build one upper as a 223/556 and the other one as a 300BLK. I love the 300BLK that I built.Hmm. That's my next question. What caliber? Hmm.
It's called 'Your Arsenal Advisor'. I advise on stuff I do with my arsenal to share with others who might benefit in some way. We'll see where it goes. My older son helped me set it up so it's also an activity we can do together.
It is capable of supersonic and subsonic loads. It is very easy to suppress. The only parts changes from a 223/556 are the barrel and flash hider. Other than the barrel and flash hider, it will accept all 223/556 mods. If you want to see one, let me know and we'll figure something out so you and have some range time with it.I'm considering it.
It is capable of supersonic and subsonic loads. It is very easy to suppress. The only parts changes from a 223/556 are the barrel and flash hider. Other than the barrel and flash hider, it will accept all 223/556 mods. If you want to see one, let me know and we'll figure something out so you and have some range time with it.
I have Aero lowers and have an Aero upper for a build I'm currently engaged in.
If you want a cheap barrel that is really decent, look here. It is about $120 shipped.
http://www.kakindustry.com/contract-556-16-inch-carbine-melonite-barrel
Good uppers on here from an IP.
http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Upper_Receivers_s/2642.htm
I got one of the barrels from KAK for Mrs. DA's build. She is looking forward to it being finished so she can shoot it in the summer.Those barrels are amazing.
For the record, all green mountain barrels are absolutely phenomenal. A good large percentage of the American made barrels are made from blanks they are turning out, and I'm here to tell you that their barrels are impeccably rifled. I have literally NEVER seen one of their barrels that had any kind of wonky lands and grooves, nothing but strong beautiful perfect rifling.
I have a green mountain 10/22 barrel in 4140 I had nitrided that literally has more rounds than I could possibly count through it and not the barest beginning of wear on it. Granted .22lr is not a barn burner, but it's still amazing.
They also produced the barrels for the vz-2008s, again, I had mine melonite nitrided, and the performance has been astonishing.
I also bought an upper from JSE surplus that had a green mountain nitrided barrel on it, 4150 CMV, basically the twin of these barrels here, and I shit you not it shot the tightest group I have ever shot in my life.
Point is, nitrided barrels are the shnizz, I have come to like them much better than chrome lined ones, and green mountain can not be beat. These barrels are machined from green mountain blanks, btw, in case you thought I was crazy.
In order of case depth from deepest to shallowest (the shallower the harder) it goes
4140, 4150, stainless 410, stainless 416
there is a lot that goes into it to consider, but basically 4150 is generally the best compromise, very deep case, very hard case, and very consistent over the life of the barrel
I got one of the barrels from KAK for Mrs. DA's build. She is looking forward to it being finished so she can shoot it in the summer.
I'm also looking at doing another 300BLK build to convert my dad to the dark side for deer hunting.
I can't run steel cased ammo in one of my AR's. It has FTE on every round and I have to use a wooden block and mallet on the charging handle.depending on who did the nitride, there may be salt in the bore. If there is, just shoot it for awhile till it stabilizes.
I find that cheap steel cased ammo works WONDERS for this. Shot the residue right out of my vz-2008 barrel for me lickety split. Afterwards it will shine like black volcaninc glass.
The only par that seems to be showing any wear on most of my nitrided barrel guns is the gas port, and that is GREATLY reduced.
I brought one of my nitride barreled uppers to Clandestine's AR class and was AMAZED to find after using his borescope just how well that barrel had withstood all the wolf and Tula I have fed it.
I can't run steel cased ammo in one of my AR's. It has FTE on every round and I have to use a wooden block and mallet on the charging handle.
It would fire, but the bolt would fail to disengage from the locking lugs. Bar in mind that I have about 5-7k down the barrel of this rifle. I could shoot steel cased ammo up to the 3500 toils Mark, but after that it wouldn't extract.that is REALLY tight headspace. I had that problem with two barrels.
One the headspace was so tight I had to slam it home to get it to close on a .223 go gauge, and would not close at all on a 5.56, the other the threads were screwed up or the extension was cross threaded.
If the headpace is just tight, shooting it will cause it to eventually be able to use steel case. After about 400 rounds, maybe 200 if you shoot very rapidly, that headpace will settle in to where you can run steel case.
If the case is stuck AFTER firing, that's another story.
If your chamber is not chromed or melonited, you can correct the problem
What qualifies as C&R? 50 years old right?