Any tapped lower for tension screw?

[lennyk]

Guys,

Seeing that all the higher end lowers have the tensioning screw for the rear lug. Seems easy with the right equipment. Anyone attempted and results?

 

[BUFF7MM]

Guys,

Seeing that all the higher end lowers have the tensioning screw for the rear lug. Seems easy with the right equipment. Anyone attempted and results?

You lost me around the end of the first sentence, hopefully I'm just having a brain cramp.

 

[eddiek2000]

You lost me around the end of the first sentence, hopefully I'm just having a brain cramp.

I think he is talking about using a small setscrew to hold the detent spring in place when the plate is removed.

If so, it is easy to do. BUT if you break the tap off, you'll be hating life.

 

[BUFF7MM]

I think he is talking about using a small setscrew to hold the detent spring in place when the plate is removed.

If so, it is easy to do. BUT if you break the tap off, you'll be hating life.

Thanks for uncramping my brain.
Your explanation make sense.

 

[kalister1]

I believe he is referring to a screw that would come up through the Lower and put pressure (tension) on the upper. Keeping the upper tight to the lower.?

 

[outrider58]

I believe he is referring to a screw that would come up through the Lower and put pressure (tension) on the upper. Keeping the upper tight to the lower.?

That's what I'm hearing. Like a JP Tensioning Spring. I have one but have not used it yet.
http://www.jprifles.com/1.5.1.7_small_tp.php

 

[lax]

tactical innovations

 

[campns]

tactical innovations

+1 I have a TI-15 BDX very good machining, the set screw is a dream, as is the safety detent spring set screw.

 

[lennyk]

I believe he is referring to a screw that would come up through the Lower and put pressure (tension) on the upper. Keeping the upper tight to the lower.?

Apologies, thought that this would be more clear, but correct. I am referring to the nylon set screw from the bottom of the lower. Like a mechanical accuwedge.

 

[Sticky]

It's easy to do, a 1/4-28 tapped hole in the grip flat that breaks through centered and just below the takedown lug to enable you to put a set screw in there and tighten it up. I have this done on my AR15 lowers, but I don't use it on most, as they are either tight enough, or the flip side, if you actually tighten it up to remove all the play, you really can't break the rifle open.. lol

 

[outrider58]

I guess the big difference between the TI and the JP are:
The TI set screw actually removes play between the upper and lower by spreading the two apart against the rear take down pin. Does that cause more of a gap between the two receiver halves?
The JP takes the place of the rear take down pin(no tapping involved) and draws the two receiver halves tightly together. The disadvantage of the JP pin is that an Allen wrench is required for take down relegating the rifle to a range/comp gun.

 

[Sticky]

Yes, the TI type tensioning screw actually presses upward on the bottom of the takedown lug and would open up the upper to lower fit until the play is removed, thus leaving a slight gap (depending on how tight or loose the mating actually is).

With a tension screw, you can take 'most of it' out and still maintain takedown functionality, but if you really want it to be tight, the takedown pin will be bound by the pressure on it and in order to loosen it, you have to remove the grip and adjust it all over again to break it down and then to tighten it back up when you reassemble the weapon. Too much of a pain in the arse... I'd rather have a little play if it comes down to that..

 

[BUFF7MM]

I honestly don't see the need to remove the "slop" between the halves, unless it is falling in half. The rifle with a little bit of slop will still out shoot probably 99% of their owners.
And as far as noise, a non issue with civilian use.

 

[outrider58]

I honestly don't see the need to remove the "slop" between the halves, unless it is falling in half. The rifle with a little bit of slop will still out shoot probably 99% of their owners.
And as far as noise, a non issue with civilian use.

I agree here. That's probably why I haven't installed the JPpin. Most of my ARs have Adams GPSs on them so, gassface isn't much of a problem and I like the ability to 'open' the gun easily if I run into a problem or need. On my rifle length AR, I've settled on the little silicone type do-hicky that crams under the rear take down lug. Works for me...

 

[BUFF7MM]

I agree here. That's probably why I haven't installed the JPpin. Most of my ARs have Adams GPSs on them so, gassface isn't much of a problem and I like the ability to 'open' the gun easily if I run into a problem or need. On my rifle length AR, I've settled on the little silicone type do-hicky that crams under the rear take down lug. Works for me...

The accuwedge is all I've ever used, but lately all I can find is the hard version, I'd like to find some of the squishy ones.

 

[Pinecone]

I don't see what they would do for you.

The barrel, bolt, sights are all attached to the upper. So the lower being tight (within reason) has little to do with accuracy.

 

[TripleEight]

Check out these shims if you don't want to use an Accuwedge http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-shim-accurizing-kit-beats-the-accu-wedge-223cal-/251552337635 only $10 for the kit

All I do to remove the slop between the upper and lower is put a small O-ring around the front pivot pin lug on the upper though.

 

[DutchV]

Another good trick is to put a small dot of super glue on top of each side of the lower receiver. You can build it up as needed to reduce the slop. Obviously, you should let the glue dry before testing the fit. Doesn't require tools, and can be removed if needed.

 

[smdub]

The JP takes the place of the rear take down pin(no tapping involved) and draws the two receiver halves tightly together.

A wedge bolt won't pull the halves together necessarily. It simply tightens and makes the holes axes (mostly) colinear (= holes concentric). You will still have a gap between upper/lower if they are machined that way. You could machine the upper hole oblong so the 'center' shifts high enough so that the act of making them colinear would draw the gap closed. But a wedge bolt wont do it inherently.

I don't see what they would do for you.

The barrel, bolt, sights are all attached to the upper. So the lower being tight (within reason) has little to do with accuracy.

Yeah, bedding a rifle never improves accuracy. Slop between the action and the stock is common on guys that shoot competitions. Anyone will tell you that.


All ribbing aside, even holding a rifle consistently affects accuracy. A sloppy upper starts moving the moment you pull the trigger. So where you are aiming before you drop the hammer isn't the same location where the barrel is pointing when the bullet leaves the barrel. It has a LOT to do with accuracy.

 

[Pinecone]

Bedding is not about slop, it is about consistant pressure on the action to avoid bending or twisting it.

ARs are not the same situation.