1911 lightweight 9mm CCO

[Magnumite]

Building 1911 for my wife to use. This is an aluminum frame Officer size frame (short frame for Glockers) with a Commander top end (3/4” shorter than full size). I build one in 45. Judging by its performance the lighter frame in a 9mm is probably going to be the bee’s knees.

Anyway, here are pics of the measured and marked 80% serialized frame. For those curious, I used the Matrix jig with the spindle screw to cut the rails. I used a Phantom jig before. This like going from middle school to college.

Without getting into specifics, the measurements of the slide and frame help determine the strategy to fit the slide to the frame.

 

[Magnumite]

First I had to lower the deck (top surface of the frame) to nominal print dimension. As I did that I had to make sure all 4 corners were lower equally. And the deck is FLAT since the frame fixtures to the jig on its deck. In contrast, the Phantom jig fixtures off the slide stop pin hole and grip safety pin hole.

 

[Magnumite]

Cutting the frame ways…

 

[Magnumite]

The slide was a nice snug fit before polishing. Pic of polished frame ways and rails..
The slide is an excellent part. I did not do the machining…

 

[Magnumite]

Remington grip safety was a select fit on the precut .250” ragius tangs. It was chosen among other similat grip safeties until a close fit was found. Frame and grip safety close blended along with the Remington ambi safety. I knocked the corners off he interfacing joint lines on grip safety and the radii on the frame grip frame adjacent to the grip safety. That way there is no chance of a abrading the hand during shooting.

 

[teratos]

You are my hero.

 

[Magnumite]

Magwell and round butt.

 

[shocker998md]

Blown away as always. Your killing it bud!

 

[John from MD]

Remington grip safety was a select fit on the precut .250” ragius tangs. It was chosen among other similat grip safeties until a close fit was found. Frame and grip safety close blended along with the Remington ambi safety. I knocked the corners off he interfacing joint lines on grip safety and the radii on the frame grip frame adjacent to the grip safety. That way there is no chance of a abrading the hand during shooting.
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Beautiful work! Still using an analog caliper too!

 

[outrider58]

Nice work Magnumite! Can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[Magnumite]

Beautiful work! Still using an analog caliper too!

So true. I like standard or venier micrometers as well. I have a digital caliper which stays right next to the one in the pic…hardly ever use it. The batteries in the analog instruments never discharge…

 

[Magnumite]

Just fit the trigger. I like a few…just a few…thousands movement vertically and laterally. Hot gunky gun will need good trigger return. Pics of how I limited the looseness in this trigger after prepping the trigger tracks and shoe cut out in the frame.

Pic in the frame.

This is a Remington liquidation short GI length trigger. Very nice part but not match dimensioned. If the overtravel is severe when the trigger job is finished I’ll install an overtravel screw like I did with the last two builds or upgrades.

 

[Rockzilla]

Great work..as usual, and documentation...
Have both the "jigs" also. The Matrix I use the most.
Have a slide measuring tool, I use from time to time

Great work once again "Mag"
More reading and looking at picz.
You get out of them what you put in them.
The time you take to blend / fit / checker takes
patience.

Next project for me will be a 10mm.
Got my eyes open for one of them, probably
long slide build.then again may finish the RIA
after breaking it in.
Gonna have to start taking some pics

Have another project gun, gonna shoot it
for a while then, work on it Picked up a new
RIA 1911 FS Tactical 45 (51431) for $309
delivered.

-Rock

 

[Magnumite]

Dang, $309 for a Tact is pretty good. Yep, get out of them what one puts into them. Can’t improve without the effort. I might have mentioned this before but sometimes I am flat out exhausted doing each of the “big stages” as I think of them. One day I’ll get a clue.

I don’t use a slide measuring tool. I use the rail depth equalizing gauge and derive the dimensions. You like the slide measuring tool?

You will like a 6” 10mm. I built that 6” 45 Super/SMC upper for my Mil Spec. Its a hoot to shoot. It is set up for heavy 10 mm class loads and still cycles with 45 ball ammunition!

 

[Magnumite]

A bit of barrel fitting an EdBrown barrel kit…barrel, link, pin, and bushing. I had to relink it. Not a tight lock up but sound. This isn’t built as a match grade pistol.

 

[John from MD]

A bit of barrel fitting an EdBrown barrel kit…barrel, link, pin, and bushing. I had to relink it. Not a tight lock up but sound. This isn’t built as a match grade pistol.
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Smart move. I have had people bring Bullseye custom guns to me that had too small clearance and they just don't run long in that condition.

 

[Magnumite]

Smart move. I have had people bring Bullseye custom guns to me that had too small clearance and they just don't run long in that condition.

Yeppers! There are fine lines between ever so slightly combat “loose”, just right tight, and let’s make it choke.

 

[Magnumite]

This frame was machined to contain a Series 80 drop safe firing pin block. The slide is Series 70. So we know where this is going.

Well, lockwork parts measured and shim selected. Caspian sear, TMC hammer, other good parts.

Initial pull was 80 ounces (5 pounds). Adjusted pull to 3 pounds 14 ounces.

 

[Magnumite]

Fitted grips to thumb safety and vice versa. This was done to prevent over torquing the joint in the thumb safety shaft during manipulation and riding it while shooting. This keeps the joint from loosening up as soon as it normally would.

Before all that, I had to inlet the right side grip panel to accept the right side thumb safety retaining tang. Progress and final pics.

 

[Magnumite]

The mag catch would drag against the dropping magazine. So I relieved behind the button side of the mag catch.