$100 tool just to install a flash hider or two?

[Hellrazr78]

I'm in Dundalk. I'm going to contemplate the many options listed out for me by everyone and decide what to do. I think having a reaction rod type of vice block would probably be a good option because I may need to change a barrel down the road. You never know. I hate to be the guy borrowing everyone's tools and there seems to be a decent amount of affordable options other than the Geissele reaction rod. I'm thinking it may be beneficial to have my own tool.

 

[outrider58]

I'm in Dundalk. I'm going to contemplate the many options listed out for me by everyone and decide what to do. I think having a reaction rod type of vice block would probably be a good option because I may need to change a barrel down the road. You never know. I hate to be the guy borrowing everyone's tools and there seems to be a decent amount of affordable options other than the Geissele reaction rod. I'm thinking it may be beneficial to have my own tool.

Botach is your friend.

 

[FlatsFlite]

I do this with some milled out wood and leather strips.

+1

A reaction rod is all fine and dandy until you over torque and break a pin. You cant fix that in your garage. Stick with a barrel vise.

 

[outrider58]

+1

A reaction rod is all fine and dandy until you over torque and break a pin. You cant fix that in your garage. Stick with a barrel vise.

A pin?

 

[clandestine]

The 51 tooth I just put on My new 25-45 cal. Sharps called for 45-55 FP.( AAC spec.)!

That torque spec is for stupid people so they dont do stupid things. Anything over 20 ft# can put stress on the last 1/2" of the barrel and effect accuracy. I have seen it many times.

15-20 ft # and rocksett will hold a Q.D. device and not effect accuracy

 

[FlatsFlite]

A pin?

Joe Dumass chucks up the reaction rod, starts laying the unmeasured torque to it that torque goes straight to the barrel extension as that is how the reaction rod works. On some builds, Joe Dumbass can snap the indexing pin. It has happened more than once.

 

[Ifdot]

Joe Dumass chucks up the reaction rod, starts laying the unmeasured torque to it that torque goes straight to the barrel extension as that is how the reaction rod works. On some builds, Joe Dumbass can snap the indexing pin. It has happened more than once.

I must be joe dumbass, I don't understand. If the reaction rod goes into the barrel extension and puts all torque onto the barrel how will the index pin snap?

 

[clandestine]

The Index Pin can snap when installing a Barrel Nut or a Muzzle Device with a reaction rod. The RR was actually modified to vesrion 2, to help prevent the damage that was occurring.

Depends on how hard the Index Pin is, and how much torque is applied.

I use a RR for muzzle devices only and I dont exceed 20 Foot Pounds (I use Rocksett in conjunction with this torque value). I use action blocks to install barrels.

The RR is for builders with some experience that know its practical use, not the "masses"/

Even Bill Giessele says they dont use the RR to build uppers in one of his videos.

 

[clandestine]

I have seen people break index pins with the RR.

 

[clandestine]

This is not my pic, but here is a pic where a pin was sheared with a RR.

 

[atblis]

I'm not picturing how a reaction rod puts any stress on that pin when installing a muzzle device.

Might try some rosin between the blocks and the barrel.

 

[Sticky]

I suppose, depending on the tolerances of the barrel extension splines on the RR, it could allow enough 'play' to exert some torque on the pin against the upper receiver, but I'd think the pin slot in the upper would yield before the pin did, but that does depend on how high a quality pin is used.

That said, I have done barrel installs with both the RR, a Botach (for my 308s) and an upper vise block, no issues with any of them.

 

[clandestine]

The uppers do give in some cases as well when the index pin does not.

 

[friendlyhippo]

If using a crush washer, as long as you use a full capture vise block, a reaction rod might not be a necessity unless you have a long way to go to index it. I still prefer the rod. It takes all the pressure off the barrel index and upper receiver.

How does using padded jaws in a vise on the barrel put any pressure on the upper receiver?

 

[cap6888]

Clandestine-someone else said that you mentioned a Magpul Bev Block. What say you on this device for the Joe Saturday Monrning type? In the short term, I am looking to install some muzzle devices for silencer hosts. Long term (hopefully 6 months) I'm looking to do my first full AR build. Soooo, Bev Block, upper block vise, something else? Thanks!

 

[clandestine]

For muzzle devices only, I tell my students that the BEV or the Reaction Rod works great. BUT, I also tell them to keep the muzzle torque between 15 and 20 foot pounds AND use Rocksett.

Rocksett does not release with heat. To release it whack a wood block against the muzzle device, and sit the muzzle in boiling or very hot water for 5 mins. The Rocksett will release.

I dont use the Reaction rod to install barrels. For that I use Clamshell blocks with a reinforced insert or a BEV Block. I suggest Aeroshell 33MS for the Receiver threads and the Barrel Nut Threads. Dont exceed 80 foot ponds on the barrel nut. 35 FT/LBS is the minumim. One must be aware of the extra leverage an armorers tool adds to the value of torque.

For one tool the BEV is great BUT it does not always fit every upper well.

 

[Hellrazr78]

Well this has been an enlightening thread.

Buy a muzzle device I said. How hard could it be to install I thought.

Thanks everyone for their input!

 

[clandestine]

Well this has been an enlightening thread.

Buy a muzzle device I said. How hard could it be to install I thought.

Thanks everyone for their input!

Its a simple subject in most cases, but its best to be informed. Tools are expensive and sometimes theres bad info on the net which can lead to a ruined gun if not done right.

I have seen guys pay shops to install stuff and they screw it up too, so be careful on who you pick.

 

[Hellrazr78]

Its a simple subject in most cases, but its best to be informed. Tools are expensive and sometimes theres bad info on the net which can lead to a ruined gun if not done right.

I have seen guys pay shops to install stuff and they screw it up too, so be careful on who you pick.

Always appreciate your opinions and insight sir!

 

[rico903]

For muzzle devices only, I tell my students that the BEV or the Reaction Rod works great. BUT, I also tell them to keep the muzzle torque between 15 and 20 foot pounds AND use Rocksett.

Rocksett does not release with heat. To release it whack a wood block against the muzzle device, and sit the muzzle in boiling or very hot water for 5 mins. The Rocksett will release.

I dont use the Reaction rod to install barrels. For that I use Clamshell blocks with a reinforced insert or a BEV Block. I suggest Aeroshell 33MS for the Receiver threads and the Barrel Nut Threads. Dont exceed 80 foot ponds on the barrel nut. 35 FT/LBS is the minumim. One must be aware of the extra leverage an armorers tool adds to the value of torque.

For one tool the BEV is great BUT it does not always fit every upper well.

So just whack it from the front? Do you put the block against the muzzle and hit it with a hammer? I have one I ned to take off. Do have a Bev block to reinstall A2 flash hider.