Amateur Radio FAQ

[K31]

Two weeks ago I couldn't spell General, now I is one.

 

[gamer_jim]

just scored 74% on hamstudy.org

I think I'm going to go to the Howard County hamfest on 5/27 and sit for general exam.

A bigger score: I got the XYL to agree to a new radio and adding an antenna outside.

I'm looking at buying an EFHW from myantennas.com.

The radio is Yaesu FT-450D.

Any suggestions or feedback on either of those?

I have a power supply already, MFJ-4225MV (does up to 25A)

The 450D has a built-in tuner up to 3:1.

Am I missing anything else?

 

[Traveler]

Just make a few of your own wire antennas. You will save money, and it isn't that hard. What you will learn, will help you select a store bought antenna if you really must.

 

[Deep Thought]

just scored 74% on hamstudy.org

I think I'm going to go to the Howard County hamfest on 5/27 and sit for general exam.

A bigger score: I got the XYL to agree to a new radio and adding an antenna outside.

I'm looking at buying an EFHW from myantennas.com.

The radio is Yaesu FT-450D.

Any suggestions or feedback on either of those?

I have a power supply already, MFJ-4225MV (does up to 25A)

The 450D has a built-in tuner up to 3:1.

Am I missing anything else?

Ft-450 is a good rig. If you're into data modes you'll need a Signalink or similar to interface with a PC (no USB on this model.)

I've not used an end-fed antenna myself but anecdotally have heard they are prone to RFI in the shack. This seems to be a resonant antenna (rather than with a tuner) so perhaps that may mitigate RF reflection issues.

 

[vette97]

I'm looking at buying an EFHW from myantennas.com.

That looks good. I built my own using poly-stealth, a 9:1 BalunDesigns balun, end insulator and when all said and done, I saved a few bucks over this. I can also work 160m without issue with mine. Yours is a decent deal for ready-made. I drone-installed my wire up over a tree so I have a run from my shed up 125' to the tree-top, and then installed a 31' counterpoise off the ground lug in some shorter trees. I'm hearing 2x more stations in comparison to my G5RV in the woods behind the house. I'm also hearing more noise, but that's expected for a nearly vertical sloper. I also installed a 1:1 current balun where the coax comes into the house to keep RF off the line.

Band conditions have been quite a challenge this past week but the week before, I was working South America on 10m.

 

[Keystone70]

I have the 450D. It is a great rig for the price. You can't beat it. I also have an EF antenna. Bought the Unun from Nelson and added my own wire. I have several wires on the lower branches hooked to the counterpoise connecter. No problems with RF in the shack.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

[Traveler]

Great starts for learning antennas

http://www.arrl.org/shop/ARRL-Antenna-Book-23rd-Softcover-Edition/

https://smile.amazon.com/ON4UNs-Ban...qid=1526342215&sr=8-1&keywords=low+band+dxing

 

[K31]

Am I missing anything else?

You're going to need a ground rod or 2 (if you ground the antenna as they suggest). Some clamps to connect conductors to the radio and ground rod. You'll want a lightning arrestor as well, that will pass the frequencies you want.

The best conductor for hf grounding is flat strap (not braided). Round ground conductor can bring hf rf into the shack.

Also coax connectors and a feed through to get it through the wall.

 

[Boxcab]

OK Elmer's, need some educating...

I finally pulled a trigger on an antenna, a ZS6BKW/G5RV variant (http://www.ni4l.com/zs6bkw-g5rv-optimized-multi-band-hf-dipole-antenna-flex-weave/). The vendor advertises that "the ZS6BKW / G5RV is capable of operating on 10, 12, 17, 20 & 40m bands, generally without a tuner, and with SWR readings usually at 1.5:1 or less."

My quick 1st attempt at hanging the antenna puts it about 20 ft up (40 ft recommended) in the air, strung between two trees. The ladder line hangs straight down 20 ft, and then runs straight out along the ground until it transitions to 100 ft of coax. No grounding or other measures taken at this point.

I borrowed the Clubs analyzer and performed a sweep of the HF frequencies (6M to 80M). The results are attached.

It looks like the advertised bands are useable, what else is the data telling me?

Thanks in advance...

.

 

[Traveler]

Your SWR is too high. Under 2 is a good start.

Just 20 feet is pretty low.

Ladder line needs to be up off the ground, as in not touching it. It should be at least the width of the ladder line away from metallic items like window sills.

My 600 ohm ladder line doublet works a treat around 45 feet.

QRZ.com is a great resource for amateur radio, but you have to have a thick skin. There are a lot of drama queens and curmudgeons on the Zed.

 

[Keystone70]

Your SWR is too high. Under 2 is a good start.

Just 20 feet is pretty low.

Ladder line needs to be up off the ground, as in not touching it. It should be at least the width of the ladder line away from metallic items like window sills.

My 600 ohm ladder line doublet works a treat around 45 feet.

QRZ.com is a great resource for amateur radio, but you have to have a thick skin. There are a lot of drama queens and curmudgeons on the Zed.

What he said. Note: If you have a newer radio with tuner built in, it will tune down anything under 3:1. Also, if you transmit with greater than 2:1, it will throttle back the lower and probably beep at you. You want to do what Traveler said to improve the SWR before relying on tuner. That said, a tuner will be needed to use all of those bands; and, it still may not be good enough for some.

20 and 40 should be your bread and butter. 6 and 10 are your cake. Everything else is ice cream. 30 is digital only. 60 is hardly used. 80 is a big maybe and 160 is out of the question.

Also, note that your General privileges are in the upper regions of the bands, for the most part. That is where the SWR counts the most for phone. If you are doing CW or digital, the bottom of the bands are important.

Basically, the advertisement for these products are generally generous in their promises. Not to slam them at all. Multi band with wide bands is a very difficult thing to achieve.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

[K31]

I can't add anything to what was already said. It looks like your results are pretty much equal to this persons with the analyzer:

http://www.nc4fb.org/wordpress/zs6bkw-multi-band-antenna/

I think you know you need to get the antenna higher but you may also want to consider hanging it in an inverted vee configuration (the URL you gave says it can be used in that configuration). An inverted vee should give you a more omni-directional pattern.

 

[Boxcab]

Thanks all, looks like I need to do some "monkey" work in the trees.

K31, what can you tell me about and inverted V? How wide must the legs be separated and what angles, etc.? Would having the ladder line run next to the tree trunk be detrimental?



.

 

[K31]

Thanks all, looks like I need to do some "monkey" work in the trees.

K31, what can you tell me about and inverted V? How wide must the legs be separated and what angles, etc.? Would having the ladder line run next to the tree trunk be detrimental?



.

The vendor should be able to tell you more about the optimal slope. And the ends need to be a certain number of feet off the ground. You can usually achieve that without supports by adding guy ropes to the ends with insulators and going to stakes in the ground, but that takes more room. Ladder line needs to be a few inches away from the trunk of the tree but that's usually not a problem to achieve if you hang it from a branch.

Another way to support it is to run a rope between two trees at the height you want the peak and then hang the center of the antenna from that. That way the feedline is in clear space.

Edit:

Here's a presentation on it that even includes radiation patterns:

https://www.w5ddl.org/files/Zs6bkw_vs_G5rv_20100221b.pdf

 

[gamer_jim]

You're going to need a ground rod or 2 (if you ground the antenna as they suggest). Some clamps to connect conductors to the radio and ground rod. You'll want a lightning arrestor as well, that will pass the frequencies you want.

The best conductor for hf grounding is flat strap (not braided). Round ground conductor can bring hf rf into the shack.

Also coax connectors and a feed through to get it through the wall.

A few questions:

Is it realistic for me to pound an 8 foot grounding rod in myself? Or do I need to hire someone to install it?

Do I attach the house ground (from the electrical box) to this ground rod?

Can I attach the lightning arrestor to the same ground rod that the other shack equipment is attached to?

Does the antenna need it's own grounding rod or can I use the same one that the other shack equipment and lightning arrestor will be using?

My house ground rod is about 10 feet away from where my shack will be. Can I just use that or do I really need a separate rod for the amateur radio stuff?

If I purchase a ground bar for inside the shack and attach everything to that (computer, power supply, transciever, etc.) How do I attach that to the ground rod? You mentioned a wide non-braided strap. Do I run that wide strap out through the wall to the grounding rod outside? How do I attach that strap to the grounding rod?

This is what I found on dxengineering:

flexible copper grounding strap: https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/gcl-1210-025

ERICO copper grounding bar:
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/ero-egba14210jf

Thanks in advance.

 

[Engine4]

Is it realistic for me to pound an 8 foot grounding rod in myself?

We are talking Carroll County, home to rocks in the ground everywhere! But, I was able to put 2 of them in. Use a fence post driver, makes quick work of it. If you don't hit a rock, that is.

Here are some resources suggested to me as far as grounding.

https://www.w8ji.com/station_ground.htm

https://www.polyphaser.com/services/media-library/white-papers?page=1

 

[NY Transplant]

A few questions:

Is it realistic for me to pound an 8 foot grounding rod in myself? Or do I need to hire someone to install it?


If you have a rotary hammer or hammer drill it makes the work much easier. That is what I used to install 22 ground rods.


Do I attach the house ground (from the electrical box) to this ground rod?


Yes, all grounds must be tied together per NEC code and to equalize any voltage potential.


Can I attach the lightning arrestor to the same ground rod that the other shack equipment is attached to?


Lightning arrestors should be outside the home connected to a ground point.


Does the antenna need it's own grounding rod or can I use the same one that the other shack equipment and lightning arrestor will be using?


Yes but it needs to be connected to all grounds on you property.


My house ground rod is about 10 feet away from where my shack will be. Can I just use that or do I really need a separate rod for the amateur radio stuff?


Add one to the closest point where the coax comes through the wall but connect all of the ground rods together including the safety ground from your circuit breaker panel.


If I purchase a ground bar for inside the shack and attach everything to that (computer, power supply, transciever, etc.) How do I attach that to the ground rod? You mentioned a wide non-braided strap. Do I run that wide strap out through the wall to the grounding rod outside? How do I attach that strap to the grounding rod?


You would run the largest gauge wire that you can install from the ground bus that has all of the equipment grounds connected and then to the outdoor ground rod. Do not use braided strap outdoors; it will suck up water like a sponge and deteriorate over a short time making you ground connection poor to ineffective.


This is what I found on dxengineering:

flexible copper grounding strap: https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/gcl-1210-025

ERICO copper grounding bar:
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/ero-egba14210jf


You would get a better deal with Georgia Copper;


http://www.gacopper.com/

Thanks in advance.

I would strongly encourage you not to skimp on grounding. Since I had lightning issues in the past and with acquiring a 70 foot tower last year that becomes the tallest object for lightning within a 1/4 mile radius, I needed to have extensive grounding to not only protect my equipment but to also protect the house. you can see from the photos below. Since it is a crank-up tower, there is no guarantee that I have good electrical continuity from the base of the tower to the top of the mast so I have a pair of #2 stranded wire that connects from the base of the tower to the top of the mast where the porcupine looking thing at the top of the mast (lightning eliminator) is located. Except for some trees that border the East side of my property, the rest of my 2.5 acres is in the clear. This was not an inexpensive project but it was worth it for the piece of mind. Bear in mind that this is not your average grounding installation but it gives you an idea on one of the ways to properly ground your station.


I would recommend getting a copy of the ARRL book - Grounding and Bonding for the Radio Amateur, it is what I used as a guideline for my installation.

 

[K31]

Nice.

I would strongly encourage you not to skimp on grounding. Since I had lightning issues in the past and with acquiring a 70 foot tower last year that becomes the tallest object for lightning within a 1/4 mile radius, I needed to have extensive grounding to not only protect my equipment but to also protect the house. you can see from the photos below. Since it is a crank-up tower, there is no guarantee that I have good electrical continuity from the base of the tower to the top of the mast so I have a pair of #2 stranded wire that connects from the base of the tower to the top of the mast where the porcupine looking thing at the top of the mast (lightning eliminator) is located. Except for some trees that border the East side of my property, the rest of my 2.5 acres is in the clear. This was not an inexpensive project but it was worth it for the piece of mind. Bear in mind that this is not your average grounding installation but it gives you an idea on one of the ways to properly ground your station.


I would recommend getting a copy of the ARRL book - Grounding and Bonding for the Radio Amateur, it is what I used as a guideline for my installation.

 

[Deep Thought]

Let me know when your house is for sale. Wowzers.

I would strongly encourage you not to skimp on grounding. Since I had lightning issues in the past and with acquiring a 70 foot tower last year that becomes the tallest object for lightning within a 1/4 mile radius, I needed to have extensive grounding to not only protect my equipment but to also protect the house. you can see from the photos below. Since it is a crank-up tower, there is no guarantee that I have good electrical continuity from the base of the tower to the top of the mast so I have a pair of #2 stranded wire that connects from the base of the tower to the top of the mast where the porcupine looking thing at the top of the mast (lightning eliminator) is located. Except for some trees that border the East side of my property, the rest of my 2.5 acres is in the clear. This was not an inexpensive project but it was worth it for the piece of mind. Bear in mind that this is not your average grounding installation but it gives you an idea on one of the ways to properly ground your station.


I would recommend getting a copy of the ARRL book - Grounding and Bonding for the Radio Amateur, it is what I used as a guideline for my installation.

 

[K31]

A few questions:

Is it realistic for me to pound an 8 foot grounding rod in myself? Or do I need to hire someone to install it?

It really depends on the soil.

Do I attach the house ground (from the electrical box) to this ground rod?

Most of the grounding texts for ham radio advise you to do this but your county may have regulations about how it must be done.

Can I attach the lightning arrestor to the same ground rod that the other shack equipment is attached to?

The best set up is to have a ground bar at the site of the entrance to the house, mount the arrestor on that and tie the ground from that to the ground rod and to the conductor coming from your ground bar in the shack.

Does the antenna need it's own grounding rod or can I use the same one that the other shack equipment and lightning arrestor will be using?

The coax shield will be grounded through the lightning arrestor.

My house ground rod is about 10 feet away from where my shack will be. Can I just use that or do I really need a separate rod for the amateur radio stuff?

Again, there may be county electrical code that applies to doing this, and how.

If I purchase a ground bar for inside the shack and attach everything to that (computer, power supply, transciever, etc.) How do I attach that to the ground rod? You mentioned a wide non-braided strap. Do I run that wide strap out through the wall to the grounding rod outside? How do I attach that strap to the grounding rod?

This is what I found on dxengineering:

flexible copper grounding strap: https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/gcl-1210-025

ERICO copper grounding bar:
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/ero-egba14210jf

Thanks in advance.

This is like what I used to attach copper strap from an exterior grounding bar to the (first) ground rod.

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-58r-112s-2