ken792
Ultimate Member
If anyone is looking for a Glock 23 parts kit, I can probably make that happen.
I wish they wouldn't call these Ghost Guns though. The anti-gun lobby, which by the way is huge and powerful, is seizing on this "ghost gun" terminology to portray 80% builds as a way for people to break the law, which we know is nonsense, but nevertheless they are using it against us. I wish this company had thought this name through a little more carefully, because words matter, and they can come back to bite you.
In an HQL state like Maryland what's the hold up with someone opening a shop for 80% work, where the work is done by the gun owner while the shop owner peers over your shoulder or leads a class with a set of tables.
I'm thinking the Clandestine model, where instead if teardown and inspection work, you do the drill out!
I also think someone could do land office business opening a shop where only 50+ year-old handguns are offered for sale, meaning no HQL crap.
In an HQL state like Maryland what's the hold up with someone opening a shop for 80% work, where the work is done by the gun owner while the shop owner peers over your shoulder or leads a class with a set of tables...
After much deliberation, I have decided to go this route and build a Glock19 from a Polymer80 compact 80% frame. I really didn't want to add to my caliber count, but I really like the newer compact design, so I have one on order from Midway. I wish I'd have seen the post sooner about Ranier having them in stock, Midway isn't shipping yet.The Glock 19 LPK's are back in stock at MidwayUSA $49.99
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/954622/glock-frame-parts-kit-glock-19-9mm-luger
Yes... if it's on CNC equipment. You can use someone's manual equipment (mill, drill press, etc) as long as you do it yourself, but not automated equipment like a CNC mill.Wasn't there an ATF ruling which said you can't borrow the tools like that?
True, heck.. I think I could finish one with a hand drill and a couple of files. Buddy ordered a couple from Ranier, they should ship as they show them in stock, may be working on one next weekend.Not even drill press.... just dremel
I ordered from Midway, I suspect they are the same as far as delivery. I am speculating a bit, since I don't have one yet, but the only 'milling' required for the compact version is to remove the few protrusions on the receiver deck and the barrel block (for the action spring to clear). It looks pretty basic, not very critical and you don't have to mill the slide grooves as the original one required, so I don't see an issue doing it with a drill press and end mill or simply hand tools, like a dremel or file. I'd be very careful with a dremel, as things can go bad fast if you aren't real careful, but removing 'most' of the areas with a sanding drum and then going back and finishing/cleaning them up with a file or fine sandpaper looks like it would be pretty easy to do. The section that is removed for the barrel block appears to be pretty thin and well marked, so you should be able to do that without a mill or drill press and cross-slide vise if they aren't an option, just go slow and be careful to not remove too much material.
I have access to a mill, so I will likely use it to remove the upper protrusions and the barrel block. Drilling the holes merely requires a bench vise and a hand drill.
Thanks for the insight! I was worried about setting up the jig in a mill vise to do that barrel block removal, looks like it was warranted. I may look at doing that part by hand, or setting up the jig in the vise horizontally instead of vertically and using a ball end mill to remove most of that portion. Or... just do that part with a file, we'll see once I get one in my hands....
The other option, though more setup time and probably not worth it, is like how I did some of the work on completing a raw forged AR lower and use an angle block clamped to the table and then clamp the jig to the angle block. Honestly, I think I'd grab the files and just do it that way before I go through all of that setup on a mill just to remove that section.
Your method of clamping to an angle block would remove most of the flex most likely. I have a mini mill so I don't have a lot of vertical space. But having a bigger milling vice would most likely prevent flex. Hindsight would have been to clamp to a bracket instead of using a vice.
Like I said, you'll most likely spend more time using the "right" tool then going to the hand file. It's shocking how easy it was to build in comparison to the sig p228 and 1911's.
You did a p228?
Yessir, have done two. Another super easy build.