Your favorite solvent and lubricant

[clandestine]

Again, I repeat myself. That is YOUR OPINION. You were the one who chose to try to call me out. Attempting to "educate" me when acting like a stuck up a$$ really isn't how somebody would try to inform somebody of their opinion, while being so disrespectful.

As for Chad saying his piece, he is entitled to his OPINION. He isn't the word of almighty god, and neither are you. If you want to be a troll, that's fine.

I have my opinion on lubricants and you have yours.

I never stated I was using Militec-1, I stated I was using Militec. There is a big freaking difference between Militec and Militec-1, maybe you should research the differences. Before you jump on somebody for the wrong product, maybe you should do your own research on if something even exists.

Some peoples Opinion is based on EXPERIENCE, not from some fudd or guy who claims to be some uber wannabe Special Forces tool.

I guarantee I have at leat 100x if not more trigger time and at least 1000x more time working on weapons than YOU do. Check yourself with the shots you take at me.

Miltec has no corrosion protection, its a TERRIBLE lubricant. If you use it then fine but theres experienced people here besides myself and they mirror my imput about Miltec. It is snake oil.

 

[BBQ1]

So Miltec is good stuff

 

[BradMacc82]

So Miltec is good stuff

View attachment 75128

 

[BBQ1]

This is a great thread...never even heard about Miltec until today.
Glad I found out about it before I bought some and blew up my gun

 

[clandestine]

I have helped MSP and AACPD LEO's when they have issues with their weapons their Dept Armorers cant seem to fix. To be fair Dept Armorers have limited "Toolbox" and are constrained by regulations and policy. They can only do som much.

In many cases where Officers were having issues, the issue was lubricant or lack there of. The lube issues Officers/Troopers were experienceing related to corrosion always involved Miltec. The "Dry Lube" advice some "Gun Experts" give is a people killer. One of the major resons the MSP had issues with the Storm Pistol was because of the lubricant the MSP uses (Miltec). Change the lube to something suitable and the Storm will run in most cases.

These officers also carry M4 Clone Carbines in their trunks from verious Manufacturers and experienced issues with Miltec as well, especially being left in the trunk semi exposed to the elements.

The M4/AR needs lube to be reliable, it shouldnt be run dry unless its in a Sub Zero Temperature Climate, and there are Arctic Lubes that work well for that application. Wet Lubricant displaced comtaminents and moves them out of the way. Miltec cant do that when applied as the Mfg. instructs. If you use Miltec WET, it will gum up when mixed with carbon and firing residue and cause malfunctions just like WD40 will when used on firearms.

I have seen HK, SIG, Glocks, M&P's, and XD that simply wouldnt run when treated exclusively with Miltec. Clean the weapon, apply another lube and violia, problems vanish.

 

[clandestine]

This is a great thread...never even heard about Miltec until today.
Glad I found out about it before I bought some and blew up my gun

Its not going to blow it up.

What is WILL do is accelerate wear, allow corrosion to take place rapidly, and could cause the weapon not to work when target shooting, hunting, or in the worst case when you are trying to use it to protect yourself.

 

[amoebicmagician]

Ballistol ballistol ballistol ballistol.

It works great for everything.

Applying it directly leaves a thin invisible film, or soak your barrel in it for about 20 mins and clean as usual to dissolve powder, copper, and lead and leave a shiny bore.

You can also pour a little out and let it sit until the alcohol portion evaporates and that will leave behind a thicker almost quasi-grease that works well on slide rails and AK actions.

If I have absolutely HORRIBLE copper or lead fouling I'll use hoppe's solvent, but leaving that on too long can actually hurt your bore and any naked metal it's left on.

Ballistol works well if you give it just a bit more time to soak in before scrubbing, and it's completely non-toxic. Won't seep into your skin and harm you liver like CLP or Remoil, it's so safe it's used on food prep surfaces, and even used as a MEDICINE in europe to treat scratches, wounds, and sores.

 

[amoebicmagician]

oh, and ballistol will never gum up or evaporate, even after decades

 

[clandestine]

oh, and ballistol will never gum up or evaporate, even after decades

I agree, and I really love ballistol but its not a "do all" product for all firearms. It will burn off with just a few mags through a D.I. AR15. Its a poor stand alone lubricant for high temperature, rapid fire weapons.

Bolt Action
Pump Action
Lever Action
Break Action
Semi Auto Hunting Rifles/Shotguns with LIMITED Mag Capacity
Revolvers


AK/AR ect..... (Unless your just doing afternoon paper punching, then )

 

[Diehart]

FrogLube

 

[marte616]

Personally, I like KY Jelly to lubricate my bolt action....

 

[BBQ1]

FrogLube

I see them selling this stuff at the gun shows.
Almost bought some but I'm a sucker for those TV infomercials

I just stick with GI surplus stuff and CLP.

 

[dev]

I found that washer corrosion test I mentioned done by a member on m4carbine.net.

Take it for what it's worth or not worth. Most of the major CLPs are covered.
http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=103924

 

[George]

I did not see no one mention lucas gun oil. I seem to like it. Like any other oil a little goes a long way.

 

[HondoMD]

I've used ballistol for years... never had a problem.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

For lube, I have had great luck with Hoppes/Castrol Synthetic lube. Ive had a large pump bottle that last me a very longtime, and made just about any semi auto run, well. Sadly its no longer made.

I recently been using Shooters Choice FP-100 in the dropper bottle, and it works pretty well. It sticks to sliding surfaces very good, and my 1911 works well with it too! Ive been pleased with it being a replacement for Castrol.

For solvents, Ive always preferred Shooters Choice. I have used, and still use Hoppes, number 9 for carbon fouling- but it does not cut the mustard for removing jacket fouling. Shooters Choice has ammonia for cutting copper fouling out if a bore and works better for that use.

For better copper removal, Sweets 7.62 works very well. Its smelly and is ammonia based, but ammonia cuts out copper pretty well IMHO. You;d be surprised how much copper fouling gets pulled out after using common bore solvents, and then using Sweets 7.62. The patches come out blue/green for a bit after other solvents, which clearly wont remove copper fouling.

 

[jeffersm]

Frog Lube!

 

[JohnnyE]

Any true lubricant will do. Long answer...

I had the benefit of working with a gentleman who has a PhD in tribology. Tribology is the study of the effects of materials in relative motion – two things moving in relation to each other. Some things slide along each other, like a slide moving back and forth on frame rails, and other things rotate, like a shaft within a bearing. His career is devoted to minimizing the damaging effects of wear and tear as things slide or rotate past each other. He is a professional in the field and I trust his judgment. Neither of us works for any companies or stores that make or sell lubricants.

He understands the lubrication challenges in automobiles (his specialty) and firearms. I showed him this webpage by Grant Cunningham (http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html) and asked for his comments.

My colleague had great things to say about molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) and its ability to protect against wear between sliding surfaces like a slide or carrier, and rails. Here you need boundary protection. While MoS2 is black and may make a mess of your pants if you use it on the slide of the 1911 you are carrying concealed, inside an AR or AK, who cares! The trick was to find a commercially available product containing the highest concentration of MoS2, since that is the key ingredient. Loctite Moly Paste #51048 has the highest concentration of MoS2 (65%) that I could find in a reasonable quantity. The remaining 35% is grease that helps keep it in place, and contributes lubrication as well.

My colleagye also told me that almost EVERYONE uses way too much oil and grease. Carefully and sparingly apply oil or grease until you barely see just the finest hint of it on the object, then STOP and don’t add any more! Don’t lather in on like shaving cream. That will only give dust and dirt something to adhere to. If it gets slung off of a bolt carrier or slide, you put on WAY too much. It was wasted and made a mess. I apply MoS2 grease with a tiny artist’s paint brush. I'm 55 years old and $20 for an 8 oz. pot of this product is a lifetime supply...and I shoot nearly every week. In my AR and AK, It goes on the rails, the hammer face and the carrier where they contact each other, carrier friction points, the trigger components other than the axis pins, the bolt lugs and other non-rotating bolt parts.

Rotating parts, on the other hand, don’t slide. The challenge here is getting the lube where it needs to go if you aren’t going to disassemble everything. And let’s face it, there aren’t any shafts spinning at 5,000 RPM inside any civilian firearm we own. And the loads are very reasonable. How much force does a trigger or hammer create when it rotates 90 degrees or less on the axis pins, or a bolt within the carrier, when is rotates? Not much! Certainly nothing approaching what you find in a hot auto transmission while driving from DC to Atlanta.

My colleague had less to say on this subject except that any true lubricant will support these hydrodynamic loads. The lube needs to penetrate into confined places. He and I followed Cunningham’s lead. Dexron automatic transmission fluid appears to fit the bill. Sure, it stinks, but unless you’re showing off your engraved Purdy at the skeet club, does it matter that much? ATF appears to do an excellent job resisting corrosion and oxidation in the harshest environments, and it is a true lubricant that flows. You sure can’t beat the price. The quart I got at the auto parts store for a few bucks will, like the pot of moly lube, last me a lifetime.

If you chose, you can spend many dollars per milliliter for exotic, specialty lubes containing secret, "miracle" ingredients. I don’t want to be duped into overpaying by slick advertising. Almost all commercial products will protect your firearms during your and many succeeding lifetimes. I just refuse to overpay for things that will not equal, let alone outperform, products that have years of research and experience behind them. To be meaningful, we need statistics that go beyond our personal experiences. When you boil it all down, in most cases we are trying to protect against wear from steel on steel contact, at modest temperatures and low speeds, in at worst a warm, humid, sweaty environment. We’re not protecting a turbocharger shaft spinning at 30,000 RPM while being assaulted by 1,200 degree exhaust gasses for hours on end. Major labs have created many great products at very reasonable prices that are used every day to protect billions of dollars of much more demanding machinery (look at mining equipment!) I follow their lead.

 

[amoebicmagician]

I agree, and I really love ballistol but its not a "do all" product for all firearms. It will burn off with just a few mags through a D.I. AR15. Its a poor stand alone lubricant for high temperature, rapid fire weapons.

Bolt Action
Pump Action
Lever Action
Break Action
Semi Auto Hunting Rifles/Shotguns with LIMITED Mag Capacity
Revolvers


AK/AR ect..... (Unless your just doing afternoon paper punching, then )

I'm going to have to respectfully disagree here.

The smoke you see when you're running your ak or ar is the oleates burning off, the rest of the ballistol stays behind, especially if you allow it to sit out and thicken before application so as to let the alcohol remove it's self first.

For my AKs I use a mixture of thickened ballistol and SFL-0 lubriplate grease on the rails, the bolt locking lugs, locking recesses in the chamber, and rail cuts in the bolt, as well as where the piston tapers larger to meet the bolt carrier proper, as there is a little friction there in all but the best fitted AKs.

Granted, the gas system on the AK keeps the working parts much cooler, but even after running hundreds of rounds rapidly through my AK, to the point that smoke is pouring off the barrel, when I took the thing home to clean, the rails and bolt were still wet with lube.

On ARs it's a little more tricky, and I understand how seeing that smoke could make you nervous, but a thin application of the same mixture I described above seems to work just fine. Ballistol actually has a higher boiling point than CLP does, and when it does completely burn away the residue it leaves behind still protects and aids in cleaning, as well as the fact that the low surface tension that allows it to seep into nooks and crannies as well as clean well allows it to stay in the pores of the metal, finding it's way in while the metal is heated and the pores expand. The residue actually seals the ballistol that is in the pores in, releasing it a tiny bit at a time when mechanical action rubs at the residue- and voila, you have continued lubrication even at extremely high temperatures.

I know that smoke is scary to see, but trust me, the stuff is still working.

 

[shiloh228]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9QHy2-3-9k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSyNryTu8QM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bAwvPPkmio