What else do i REALLY need -- LPK install

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  • Shamr0ck

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 6, 2011
    2,505
    Frederick
    All -

    I've done a lot of reading over the past several weeks and finally have assembled the needed components to complete a lower (or two)... I HATE to get mid-project and realize that - Dang it - I forgot to get this or that, or man this tool would have made this step SO MUCH EASIER...

    So I'm turning to the collected gang who have gone before me to ask...

    I don't mind investing in tools, I hate CHEAP tools, but also try not to buy a tool which I'll only need once --

    I walked through a LPK install yesterday with the intent of identifying those things which I still need to get - so that i can do the install correctly and easily.

    On hand I have:
    * Billet Lower with Allen Head Screw Bolt Catch
    * a BCM Gunfighter Grip
    * a CMMG Lower Parts Kit
    * a 5/32" steel pin punch
    * a Utility Razor blade
    * a set of allen wrenches
    * a #2 pencil
    * a light weight non-marring hammer from Sears
    * Blue Painters tape
    * Electrical tape


    Installing the Mag Catch was easy and I used the #2 pencil to push the button in so that I could helicopter the mag catch

    Installing the Trigger was easy enough having used the 5/32" steel punch to ensure the holes were aligned, finger pressure with a final tap of the hammer was enough to drive the trigger and hammer pins through

    Installing the bolt catch was easier than many given that an allen head screw had replaced the expected roll pin - though I like the idea of using vise grips or robogrip pliers by sears to compress the roll pin into the hole. wrapping the plier jaws with electrical tape to prevent marring.

    I used a razor blade to keep the spring/detent depressed for the pivot pin - worked like a champ and I managed to not scratch the finish nor jettison the detent/spring

    Installing the safety selector switch went smoothly although the spring which is captured by the hand grip fell out when I was tightening the grip - simple enough to correct.

    Installing the receiver extension seemed to take the longest as I kept losing the battle between the spring for the takedown pin detent and the end plate - finally won that battle...

    I have NOT yet:
    * torqued the castle nut
    * staked the castle nut (might want to change the end plate before I do so I can attach a sling. The CMMG endplate has NO sling attach point)

    I used the YouTube videos done by NSZ85

    I do NOT have:
    * Roll Pin Punches - didn't need as this lower was Billet and used a hex head bolt catch pin
    * Roll Pin Holders - ditto
    * Brass Pin punches - would it be 'better/safer' to have brass punches to minimize risk of damaging the finish
    * torque wrench - will need, just not sure which model will work best
    * a vise - did all my work in my lap and on my desk
    * upper receiver block - will i need one when I assemble the upper?
    * lower receiver block - is one really needed, make things easier - probably yes to torque the castle nut.
    * AR Armorer's wrench for barrel nut/castle nut
    * any grease / oil (NSZ85 mentions AeroShell 33MS grease when installing the receiver extension)
    * necessary punch to stake the castle nut. what works best?

    Given this was my first time, I was fairly happy with how things went but have some forged lowers with a standard bolt catch roll pin and know that my available tools will need at least a couple of additions to complete them.

    What else do you find yourself using when building your lowers? What am I missing?

    Thanks in advance -
     

    Sticky

    Beware of Dog
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 16, 2013
    4,511
    AA Co
    You will need most of those items listed for the other lower builds - a vise block for the upper and lower, some roll pin punches, a starter punch makes the bolt lock pin a snap and armorers wrenches for the bbl nut and to torque the castle nut. Torquing the bbl nut and castle nut really kinda require it to be clamped up tight in a vise, it's tough to do it on your lap or desktop... lol

    I have not staked my castle nuts, don't really see the need and sometimes I like to change things up (like the end plate) and want that flexibility. If you properly torque it, you won't have a problem.

    I use Machine Gunners Lube from Sprinco after a buddy turned me onto it. He has been running AR's with the PD for a long time and has been a wealth of knowledge for me. Works like a champ and doesn't stink!

    If ya wanna take a drive one weekend over to AA Co, I have all the tools and can help you assembly your other builds, glad to assist.. ;)
     

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