Uppers for my first 2 lowers?

[BLACKTALON]

I bought 2 lowers from the LRB group by and will be attempting to put them together this weekend. A few questions.
1. I was told many times if I want to shoot different grain ammo 1/9 twist is my best option?
2. My lower parts kit came all mixed up is there a quality picture sheet I can lay parts out on the net?
what problems did you have your first build or think I will have?
3. I am doing two different rifles one 16 inch barrel and one 18+ for a DMR( haven't decided length yet) I have given myself a budget of 600 bucks for the upper what do you suggest?

 

[5.7]

There are so many choices now for uppers, it is unreal!

First question, do you want DI or Piston operation? That will narrow down your choices alot. Piston uppers cost more and there are those that will argue both sides of "which one is better, DI or Piston". I like piston only for ease of maint and less crap back in the bolt and rcvr. You can always post mod a DI gun to a piston gun later if you are tight on $$, assuming you want a piston upper I should say. I have DI guns that have been fine as well. Both designs are good and reliable.

I bought a 6.8 SPC II upper from a company in Minnesota, and was very happy with the quality for the price.
http://sotaarms.com/component/jshopping/complete-ar-15-upper-units?Itemid=0
Their prices are good, for now. They along with others will be raising the prices in the future if demand keeps ramping up.

Decide what type of upper you want, then go shopping. Another good company is CORE15 in Florida. They make a nice upper and you can get it from them in either flavor (piston or DI). For 600 bucks, you can buy a nice upper with good quality parts and have some $$ left over if you shop around.

 

[Forest]

I bought 2 lowers from the LRB group by and will be attempting to put them together this weekend. A few questions.
1. I was told many times if I want to shoot different grain ammo 1/9 twist is my best option?

1:7 Is generally a better option, it allows accurate shooting of the heavy weight match rounds, while still being able to shoot the lightweight varmint rounds.

2. My lower parts kit came all mixed up is there a quality picture sheet I can lay parts out on the net?

You need to head over to AR15.com on the lower left of the home page is a set of links - look for the one marked GUIDS, download the article on assembling a lower (first link).

then go back and look for the link marked manuals - scroll down the list of manuals and get the one marked TM 9-1005-319-23 "Unit and Direct Support Maintenance Manual" . This is the famed -23&P that will show you how to assemble and dissassemble every component of the AR-15, it also has function test and inspsection point. This is a 'Must Have' for anyone who is assembling their own rifle (really it's a must have for anyone who owns an AR).

what problems did you have your first build or think I will have?

I've never had a problem - then again I had the AR15.com build guide, the -23&P (see above), and the proper set of tools.

IMHO there are two 'tricky' parts. The installation of the compression pin that holds in the bolt stop.

For that I put down a couple layers of masking or carpet tape on the side of the rifle (to prevent scratching), then I use a small bit of tape to hold the pin onto the end of my pin punch to get it started. Once it's 'started' then I isntall the bolt catch parts then tap the pin home. THEN remove the masking tape.

The second 'tricky' part is the pin that hinges the trigger guard. Too many guys don't support the ears and end up breaking one (or both) off.

Oh when putting in the front detent pin it's really helpful to have the tool mentioned in the -23 (there are commercial ones made). In any event I REALLY suggest when installing detents to have the lower in a 2 gallon zip lock (or even a clear 50 gallon leaf) bag. That when when you ****up (and you will at some point) the spring and/or detent doesn't get lost and it stays in the bag.

The next best option is to have a cat with you. They seem to be able to track those flying parts rather well.

3. I am doing two different rifles one 16 inch barrel and one 18+ for a DMR( haven't decided length yet) I have given myself a budget of 600 bucks for the upper what do you suggest?

A $600 carbine upper is very doable. A $600 DMR upper is going to be cutting corners.

My advice - don't skimp on the barrel nor the bolt carrier group. They are the heart of the rifle, accuracy and reliablity depend on those parts.

 

[BigRick]

Everything Forest told you is true and great advice. The Cat trick is one that saved my butt a couple of times.

 

[BLACKTALON]

1:7 Is generally a better option, it allows accurate shooting of the heavy weight match rounds, while still being able to shoot the lightweight varmint rounds.


You need to head over to AR15.com on the lower left of the home page is a set of links - look for the one marked GUIDS, download the article on assembling a lower (first link).

then go back and look for the link marked manuals - scroll down the list of manuals and get the one marked TM 9-1005-319-23 "Unit and Direct Support Maintenance Manual" . This is the famed -23&P that will show you how to assemble and dissassemble every component of the AR-15, it also has function test and inspsection point. This is a 'Must Have' for anyone who is assembling their own rifle (really it's a must have for anyone who owns an AR).



I've never had a problem - then again I had the AR15.com build guide, the -23&P (see above), and the proper set of tools.

IMHO there are two 'tricky' parts. The installation of the compression pin that holds in the bolt stop.

For that I put down a couple layers of masking or carpet tape on the side of the rifle (to prevent scratching), then I use a small bit of tape to hold the pin onto the end of my pin punch to get it started. Once it's 'started' then I isntall the bolt catch parts then tap the pin home. THEN remove the masking tape.

The second 'tricky' part is the pin that hinges the trigger guard. Too many guys don't support the ears and end up breaking one (or both) off.

Oh when putting in the front detent pin it's really helpful to have the tool mentioned in the -23 (there are commercial ones made). In any event I REALLY suggest when installing detents to have the lower in a 2 gallon zip lock (or even a clear 50 gallon leaf) bag. That when when you ****up (and you will at some point) the spring and/or detent doesn't get lost and it stays in the bag.

The next best option is to have a cat with you. They seem to be able to track those flying parts rather well.


A $600 carbine upper is very doable. A $600 DMR upper is going to be cutting corners.

My advice - don't skimp on the barrel nor the bolt carrier group. They are the heart of the rifle, accuracy and reliablity depend on those parts.

Thank you for all the info I have been trying to get on AR15.com for awhile it doesn't except any of my email address tho

 

[BLACKTALON]

There are so many choices now for uppers, it is unreal!

First question, do you want DI or Piston operation? That will narrow down your choices alot. Piston uppers cost more and there are those that will argue both sides of "which one is better, DI or Piston". I like piston only for ease of maint and less crap back in the bolt and rcvr. You can always post mod a DI gun to a piston gun later if you are tight on $$, assuming you want a piston upper I should say. I have DI guns that have been fine as well. Both designs are good and reliable.

I bought a 6.8 SPC II upper from a company in Minnesota, and was very happy with the quality for the price.
http://sotaarms.com/component/jshopping/complete-ar-15-upper-units?Itemid=0
Their prices are good, for now. They along with others will be raising the prices in the future if demand keeps ramping up.

Decide what type of upper you want, then go shopping. Another good company is CORE15 in Florida. They make a nice upper and you can get it from them in either flavor (piston or DI). For 600 bucks, you can buy a nice upper with good quality parts and have some $$ left over if you shop around.

I want a DI gun i cant afford a Piston upper right now

 

[Forest]

Thank you for all the info I have been trying to get on AR15.com for awhile it doesn't except any of my email address tho

They don't take 'free' email addresses anymore.

But the links I've talke about don't require you to log on, they are free for EVERYONE.

You only need to log on if you want to reply to a post in the forums.

 

[BradMacc82]

Forest - how do the 1:7's typically print with the really light varmint grenades (40gr, IIRC)? I ask because I was told 1:7 may not be best-suited for rounds that light - is that bad info I got?

 

[F-Stop]

Forest - how do the 1:7's typically print with the really light varmint grenades (40gr, IIRC)? I ask because I was told 1:7 may not be best-suited for rounds that light - is that bad info I got?

Will you be shooting a lot of lighter varmint loads?

I would get 1:7 for the 16" and if you will be using the 18+ for actual varmint hunting, get that 1:9.

You will need to grab a few boxes of various ammo and test your builds to see what works best. Also, what distances will you be shooting?

 

[JCB003]

I'd go to www.bravocompanyusa.com and go through their selection...they have just about every upper configuration you can imagine at all different price points, just a question of if what they have in stock fits your build.

 

[erwos]

If you can get a 1:8 twist barrel, that's pretty much the best way to go. 1:7 is a bit too fast, IMHO, and causes deformation/accuracy issues in 55gr ammo.

 

[Calengor]

Of the lowers I've built I've had one BCM upper and two Centurion Arms uppers (and a Centurion arms upper on the lower I helped the girlfriend's dad build). You can't go wrong with either one. If you're cost conscious, I suggest going to BCM's page and getting something like this:http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-...eiver-light-weight-p/bcm-urg-mid-16lw bfh.htm and adding handguards, BCM BCG and BCM charging handle, as well as a quality rear sight -I like the magpul ones for basic BUIS- and you'll be pretty much set.

 

[BradMacc82]

I've always ran 1:9 personally, but since Forest is one of those incredible sources of knowledge when it comes to AR's, I was trying to gain some insight and possibly correct some misinformation that I've been given.

I commented to the OP in previous threads, that unless he was shooting the long/heavy match rounds, a 1:9 would likely do well for him, although as erwos commented, if available for a good price, 1:8 seems like the best of both worlds.

 

[erwos]

People make a huge deal out of being able to shoot that 75/77gr ammo, but I would wager that a vanishingly small number people actually do it on a regular basis. The ammo is expensive, and unnecessary for most applications.

 

[Calengor]

The way I look at the 1:9 vs. 1:7 thing, 1:7 gives you the ability to launch the heavier stuff, which you might not do every day, or ever, but the possibility is there w/o having to get another upper.

 

[BradMacc82]

The highest I ever went was 75gr Hornady TAP, and that was a 2-fold deal, I wanted to see how 1:9 would handle it, and I wanted the plated cases to reload.

77gr and up just was too much buck for not enough bang IMO, my rifle range is limited to 105 yards, so I never saw the point in the long/heavy match rounds for that distance.

 

[erwos]

The way I look at the 1:9 vs. 1:7 thing, 1:7 gives you the ability to launch the heavier stuff, which you might not do every day, or ever, but the possibility is there w/o having to get another upper.

As long as you're willing to sacrifice accuracy with the stuff you're actually going to shoot... seems like a poor trade-off to me.

And, FWIW, I've shot 75gr from my 1:9 MVP with a lot of success. The 69gr limit for 1:9 is simply a recommendation, not a hard rule.

 

[Calengor]

Eh, I've been happy with the accuracy of my 1:7 rifles with 55grn ammo. I'm not shooting for groups, but they do their job when I do my part.

 

[straightsilver3]

BCM BCM BCM

 

[BLACKTALON]

BCM BCM BCM

they seem pricey I am looking to spend about 600 bucks and I have decided I do not want the A2 front site