Enjoy.
The deadair Sandman series are not user serviceable. The Dead Air Mask .(22) is userserviceable and can be cleaned.So-- simple question here because I have put off the purchase of a US cleaner since aquiering my suppressor and reading the Owners Manuel. I have a Dead Air Sandman suppressor and the Owners Manuel specifically states it does not/should not be disassembled to be cleaned or indeed need cleaning at all. So based on the experienced folks here... is this corporate BS or legit guidance from the manufacturer?
I have that one. Also does a great job on Carbs
Thanks John--much appreciated!The deadair Sandman series are not user serviceable. The Dead Air Mask .(22) is userserviceable and can be cleaned.
I have the same Amazon 3L ultrasonic. Simple green/water is cheap, but not great for heavy fouling, CLR will make it spotless in about an hour.
Ultrasonics can pit aluminum with most cleaners given enough time, can also damage finishes, so be careful with what you put in there. For most smaller things like baffles, I put them in a plastic bag with CLR, put the bag in the tank of plain water and check every 20 min or so.
I can't speak for the others but, I coat my cans with anti spatter spray. This extra step makes most of the carbon and lead come off in the US cleaner.Ironically enough I ordered the same 3L US cleaner from Amazon two weeks ago. Trying it out as we speak. This is all new to me, so I'm interested to hear about this bag method. I'll likely try this next.
Right now I've got baffles from my CGS Hyrda SS (.22LR) in there with 50/50 simple green. I've done (3) 20 minute cycles so far. Heat set on 55*C. It is slowly but surely removing the buildup (baffles never cleaned, not treated, maybe 1k rounds of shooting).
Definitely not the same speedy results as others are sharing. Maybe I try a higher concentration of simple green? Or just skip straight to the CLR? What CLR are y'all using? Grey bottle from WalMart? Or some google-fu is telling me ZEP CLR from Home Depot?
I have used a zip lock freezer bag with the cleaning solution inside along with my entire pistol inside. Then place the bag with the cleaning solution and parts in the cleaner filled to the appropriate level with distilled water. This keeps all the crud out of the cleaner and into the bag. I use a mixture of dawn dish soap or simple green, 1 teaspoonful, lemi shine dishwasher boost powder, 1 teaspoonful and distilled water. Distilled water is the best as chemicals, and other impurities hamper the cleaning process in the cleaner.This is all new to me, so I'm interested to hear about this bag method. I'll likely try this next.
I only put the baffles in the solution, not the ceracoated tube or end caps. You fill the tank with water about 1/2 way, then put the baffles in a small zip lock bag and pour a mixture of half distilled water and half simple green to cover the baffles entirely. Fold the air out of the bag and zip it. I use distilled water as that is what others online have done so I followed suit.Trying to follow your method. so,you put the 50/50 solution in a ziplock with the suppressor but you put just water in the tank and submerged the bag into the water to clean it?
Don't use simple green. Use CLR and distilled water 50/50. I too shoot all lead and this mix will clean 90% of it in two 15 minute sessions. Make sure all your baffles are separated in the bag and, shake the bag a little between sessions.Necroposting this thread, I find myself needing to find an alternative to clean my baffles in my rugged obsidian 9, as I run exclusively 9mm cast subs and really dirty powder in it. I tried SS tumbling the baffles, but had limited success. While it cleaned off the exterior face surfaces of the baffles, the interior surfaces are still caked with carbon/lead fouling residue. I have a single transducer ultrasonic cleaner, but that didn't do any justice as previous posts here described. I decided to pull the trigger on the ultrasonic cleaner suggested, as there seems to be a 15 dollar coupon promo going on, with one day shipping. I got simple green at hand to try out the bag method. Would it be any better to do 100% simple green, or should i stick with the 50/50 ratio?
Very good to know, thanks! Will report back on any updates. Is it better to put in pre-heated water to speed up/bypass the heating element? I heard it takes a while and reviews seem to hint on doing this to reduce wear on the heating element and to speed up the process.Don't use simple green. Use CLR and distilled water 50/50. I too shoot all lead and this mix will clean 90% of it in two 15 minute sessions. Make sure all your baffles are separated in the bag and, shake the bag a little between sessions.
Necroposting this thread, I find myself needing to find an alternative to clean my baffles in my rugged obsidian 9, as I run exclusively 9mm cast subs and really dirty powder in it. I tried SS tumbling the baffles, but had limited success. While it cleaned off the exterior face surfaces of the baffles, the interior surfaces are still caked with carbon/lead fouling residue that is progressively getting worst. I have a single transducer ultrasonic cleaner, but that didn't do any justice as previous posts here described. I decided to pull the trigger on the ultrasonic cleaner suggested, as there seems to be a 15 dollar coupon promo going on, with one day shipping. I got simple green at hand to try out the bag method. Would it be any better to do 100% simple green, or should i stick with the 50/50 ratio?
Same, I put baffles in a plastic bag, add just enough 100% CLR to cover them, squeeze out the air, and drop it in a tank of clean water. I do 30min at 140 degrees, if they are really bad 2 cycles, and comes out pretty much spotless, then rinse with hot water, and dry. Simple green won't do anything for lead, only light carbon fouling. Here are a couple pics to compare, 1. dirty baffles, 2. simple green for an hour, then 3. CLR for 30minDon't use simple green. Use CLR and distilled water 50/50. I too shoot all lead and this mix will clean 90% of it in two 15 minute sessions. Make sure all your baffles are separated in the bag and, shake the bag a little between sessions.
I just turn the heat on when I turn on the vibrator. By the end of the second 15 min cycle, the water is up to 50*C. The vibration creates heat also or so I am told.Very good to know, thanks! Will report back on any updates. Is it better to put in pre-heated water to speed up/bypass the heating element? I heard it takes a while and reviews seem to hint on doing this to reduce wear on the heating element and to speed up the process.
There's also a high end version of Simple Green View attachment 390633
Sinple Green Extreme
Supposedly better for metals with less corrosive effect. I've used it with good success, and it's recommended by Clandestine.
I have been told that US cleaners cause pitting on aluminum so I have never put aluminum in the bath. Did you ever look at your tubes under a high power glass?As mentioned about using on Aluminum, I was having blackened and like a powdery resedue if I left aluminum in the cleaner too long or used heat. Using no heat and say 10-15 minutes was fine on Aluminum if I washed right away.
I used this stuff and heat and even left a small part in overnight. No turning black at all.
4-1 ratio of Water-SG is what I used.
Tubes?I have been told that US cleaners cause pitting on aluminum so I have never put aluminum in the bath. Did you ever look at your tubes under a high power glass?