Suppressor Torqued

[kfrede86]

Went out to test the new suppressor today. It's a YHM SS Phantom .308 with QD mounts. First test was with my AR and it was great! Sounded like a .22lr or maybe a fire cracker. We ran 2 mags through it, let it cool, and moved it over to the MAK. Again, it performed flawlessly and was maybe a few decibels louder than the AR. We let it cool for a bit and we were going to move it back to the AR but it was extremely tight on the mount. We cranked on that thing for 45min with out it budging. We put some gun oil on and let it soak into the threads and still nothing. Finally we had to take the spring out if the mount and crank on it some more before it broke loose. Other than this little mishap, I'm very pleased with the suppressor.

Now, why did this happen? and what can I do to prevent this from happening again? It was not fun trying to get the thing off and it stayed hot longer since it didn't have air circulating through it.

 

[boricuamaximus]

using same mount on both guns?

 

[kfrede86]

No, separate mounts with the acme threads. One .308 QD mount and one 5.56 QD mount.

 

[clandestine]

Its normal. It happen on Q.D. Setups when switching from gun to gun. There are 3 reasons.

Reason #1 No antisieze on the threads. Get some Antisieze and cover the threads with a YHM Thread Protector.

Resaon #2 Damaged Threads, see reason #1

Reason #3 Certain ammo will allow excess caron to build up in the blast chamber and stick to the Flash Hider Splines. If it gets bad some WD40 and taps with a rubber mallet will break it loose.

You WANT to remove it when its hot but its not easy. Get a Bowers Silicone Suppressor COver and split it down the middle and use it for traction and to insulate heat when removing it. Its what I use. I can give you some instruction if you want.

http://ustacticalsupply.com/556762suppressorcover95.aspx

 

[kfrede86]

Its normal. It happen on Q.D. Setups when switching from gun to gun. There are 3 reasons.

Reason #1 No antisieze on the threads. Get some Antisieze and cover the threads with a YHM Thread Protector.

Resaon #2 Damaged Threads, see reason #1

Reason #3 Certain ammo will allow excess caron to build up in the blast chamber and stick to the Flash Hider Splines. If it gets bad some WD40 and taps with a rubber mallet will break it loose.

You WANT to remove it when its hot but its not easy. Get a Bowers Silicone Suppressor COver and split it down the middle and use it for traction and to insulate heat when removing it. Its what I use. I can give you some instruction if you want.

http://ustacticalsupply.com/556762suppressorcover95.aspx

Thanks, I'll look into the anti-seize and a cover. We were using welding gloves to handle the suppressor and it was still ridiculously hot. Any type of anti-seize? I'm not familiar with it and wouldn't wasn't to get something that could potentially make the problem worse.

 

[clandestine]

Thanks, I'll look into the anti-seize and a cover. We were using welding gloves to handle the suppressor and it was still ridiculously hot. Any type of anti-seize? I'm not familiar with it and wouldn't wasn't to get something that could potentially make the problem worse.

Welding gloves are ok but dont grab enough or insulate enough. Get the silicone sleeve (They make 2, get the longer on for $45) and youll be fine.

They make permatex greay color antisieze in a small plastic jar that has a built in brush, it will burn off but it wil help alot. YHM sells the stuff in small tubes for this purpose on their site.

 

[Jim Sr]

Welding gloves are ok but dont grab enough or insulate enough. Get the silicone sleeve (They make 2, get the longer on for $45) and youll be fine.

They make permatex greay color antisieze in a small plastic jar that has a built in brush, it will burn off but it wil help alot. YHM sells the stuff in small tubes for this purpose on their site.

Some anti-sieze brands come as "regular" or "high-temp" . . .
You get what you pay for.
Not a good time to buy cheep.

Permatex 77164 - Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant

​

 

[clandestine]

Some anti-sieze brands come as "regular" or "high-temp" . . .
You get what you pay for.
Not a good time to buy cheep.

Permatex 77164 - Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant

​

 

[kfrede86]

Welding gloves are ok but dont grab enough or insulate enough. Get the silicone sleeve (They make 2, get the longer on for $45) and youll be fine.

They make permatex greay color antisieze in a small plastic jar that has a built in brush, it will burn off but it wil help alot. YHM sells the stuff in small tubes for this purpose on their site.

Awesome! Thanks again for the info.

 

[clandestine]

Awesome! Thanks again for the info.

Glad to help.

FYI: You can install that cover on your suppressor but I dont suggest that. I split mine and just use it for removal and installation. It can also be used to lay the suppressor down on a table on its side when hot.

 

[kfrede86]

Some anti-sieze brands come as "regular" or "high-temp" . . .
You get what you pay for.
Not a good time to buy cheep.

Permatex 77164 - Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant

​

Looks good. Could I buy this stuff at a welding shop like a Robert's Oxygen? I was going to run by there and pick up some brazing pads to set the suppressor on while at the range. The one I have now is old and not mine.

 

[kfrede86]

Glad to help.

FYI: You can install that cover on your suppressor but I dont suggest that. I split mine and just use it for removal and installation. It can also be used to lay the suppressor down on a table on its side when hot.

Good idea. We used an old brazing pad today and it worked fine, but the suppressor is a bitch to take off when smoking hot. I'm sure the silicone sleeve acts as a pretty good insulator.

 

[BenL]

Its normal. It happen on Q.D. Setups when switching from gun to gun. There are 3 reasons.

Reason #1 No antisieze on the threads. Get some Antisieze and cover the threads with a YHM Thread Protector.

Resaon #2 Damaged Threads, see reason #1

Reason #3 Certain ammo will allow excess caron to build up in the blast chamber and stick to the Flash Hider Splines. If it gets bad some WD40 and taps with a rubber mallet will break it loose.

You WANT to remove it when its hot but its not easy. Get a Bowers Silicone Suppressor COver and split it down the middle and use it for traction and to insulate heat when removing it. Its what I use. I can give you some instruction if you want.

http://ustacticalsupply.com/556762suppressorcover95.aspx

Do you guys have any antisieze at the shop?

 

[BradMacc82]

The simple grey perma-tex anti-seize you can get in small packets from any auto parts store (about .99 cents, IIRC), if nothing else it'll hold you over until you can find the nickel anti-seize.

 

[kfrede86]

Thanks! I'll check some places out. Hopefully three mules has the stuff I need.

 

[kfrede86]

Okay, in addition to the suppressor getting stuck on my MAK, now it has a hard time twisting on. It's almost like the threads are thicker than the ones on the suppressor. Also, the clip that holds the tension spring on the mount is a little bent from me taking it off, I did this to get some oil down there when it initially became stuck.
It works great on my AR, just seems like I'm having bad luck with the MAK. Could the mount be warped?

 

[BradMacc82]

IANAG - Same mount as the AR? Same company, model, etc.?

 

[kfrede86]

IANAG - Same mount as the AR? Same company, model, etc.?

556 mount compared to the 762 mount. They're both YHM phantom qd mounts.

 

[crfakm4]

I have the QD SS can in 5.56. My can seized onto my mount after a FA shoot. No matter what I tried it would not come loose, so much as when I did crack it, the mount came with it. I had to send it to YHM for them to separate the two. The explanation that they gave me was that the specs of the can and mount were at the tightest for each and between the heat and fouling, it resulted in a seized can/mount. They performed the work free of charge of course. I have read about a more than 3 instances where this has happened. Great can though...

 

[kfrede86]

Here is my current problem. The clip that holds the tension spring in seems to be bent. It still functions as far as applying tension to what ever is screwed on to the mount but I wonder how it will hold if fired though. I'm going to clean the suppressor with a wire brush tonight. I went to the local welding store here and picked up some copper grade anti-seize, they didn't have a nickel, and I ordered the cover clandestine recommended. I might test fire it this weekend and see what happens. Is there a recommended way to cool these things off before handling? Or do I take it off while its still hot?