Suppressor return question

[John from MD]

Supposing I buy a sealed suppressor and it gets filled with lead. If I send it back to the manufacturer for cleaning, can they send it back to me without any additional paperwork?

 

[wreckdiver]

Good luck with that. When I bought my AAC Pilot it had a lifetime warranty. If it ever filled up they’d recore it for free. Then the Gemtax happened followed by Kevin selling the company to Remington. We all know how that ended. There are aftermarket companies that will recore it but it’s almost as much as I paid for the can.

 

[Afrikeber]

Sent mine back for warranty work no issues certified signature required mail and was returned that way.

 

[vgplayer]

Yes they can mail it directly back to you at your home.

 

[John from MD]

Good to know. Thanks.

 

[Sundazes]

You will need to send a copy of your F4 with it. As stated, I can be mailed back to you.
If you are talking about centerfire or rifle can, they dont get as nearly as dirty as your Mask (?) will. 22 is notoriously dirty and gets leaded up fast. I would be surprised if you put enough rounds through the center fire can to need to send it back to have it cleaned.
For the 22 can, do a search for "the dip".

 

[John from MD]

You will need to send a copy of your F4 with it. As stated, I can be mailed back to you.
If you are talking about centerfire or rifle can, they dont get as nearly as dirty as your Mask (?) will. 22 is notoriously dirty and gets leaded up fast. I would be surprised if you put enough rounds through the center fire can to need to send it back to have it cleaned.
For the 22 can, do a search for "the dip".

I am thinking of getting a small, cheap, lightweight aluminum can for .22 and aluminum and the dip don't go well with aluminum I'm told. Greased baffles make my mask is easy to clean by just dropping the baffels in a jar of Kero with a vibrator. Maybe I will get a new US cleaner next month.

I have also been told not to use an US on aluminum cans. That is the real reason I asked about sending them back.

 

[4g64loser]

I am thinking of getting a small, cheap, lightweight aluminum can for .22 and aluminum and the dip don't go well with aluminum I'm told. Greased baffles make my mask is easy to clean by just dropping the baffels in a jar of Kero with a vibrator. Maybe I will get a new US cleaner next month.

I have also been told not to use an US on aluminum cans. That is the real reason I asked about sending them back.

A sealed 22 can is just not smart. Sorry if that hurts any feelings. I've never built one that way because they need to be serviced. I generally opt for steel or stainless tube and cap and an aluminum monocore or stainless k baffles depending on application.

If they get so funky that they don't want to come apart easily, I screw a 1/2-28 plug with an O ring annulus cut (looks like a BOSS hydraulic fitting but turned to fit the suppressor threads) into the can and fill it with synthetic atf and either kero or diesel in a 50/50 mix. Let it sit a couple days and it will give up the baffles/core. A wet tumbler will get most of the funk off of k baffles. US can work but it will etch aluminum with a lot of the additives that are sold. Ruins paint too. A wire wheel works very well. Stainless steel bottle brush in a VSR drill takes care of the tube. I apply aerosol spray grease to the baffles or monocore and let the carrier flash off overnight prior to reassembly. On my YHM pistol can, I use C5A antiseize simply because that's what I use in the booster and on the very fine tube threads. It's all aluminum and I don't want to take any chances on falling. The C5A does get on everything, so be warned.

 

[Sundazes]

I am thinking of getting a small, cheap, lightweight aluminum can for .22 and aluminum and the dip don't go well with aluminum I'm told. Greased baffles make my mask is easy to clean by just dropping the baffels in a jar of Kero with a vibrator. Maybe I will get a new US cleaner next month.

I have also been told not to use an US on aluminum cans. That is the real reason I asked about sending them back.

One you compare perfomance between he Mask and a "smalll, cheap, lightweight", you will not be happy with he new one. Ask me how I know. I won't purchase an aluminum 22 can anymore. A real pain in ass to clean. I have a couple and they are safe queens. SS baffles for me. A can is a lifetime purchase. Had I realized that early on when I was collecting the ones I have, I would have saved myself a ton of moola.
You are correct about US and almimun, same with the dip. Also second on the anti seize. I have a tube of the silver stuff. I put it on all threads on the cans. Like he said, a LITTLE dab will do ya. That crap does get everywhere. One more little trick. When I am done shooting with the cans, I loosen the caps while they are still warm/hot.

 

[vgplayer]

IMHO a sealed aluminum 22 can is a waste of a tax stamp. Not worth the effort of trying to clean it or send it back.

There are super light weight serviceable cans on the market.
2.5 oz https://www.eccomachine.net/product/salamander/

 

[John from MD]

One you compare perfomance between he Mask and a "smalll, cheap, lightweight", you will not be happy with he new one. Ask me how I know. I won't purchase an aluminum 22 can anymore. A real pain in ass to clean. I have a couple and they are safe queens. SS baffles for me. A can is a lifetime purchase. Had I realized that early on when I was collecting the ones I have, I would have saved myself a ton of moola.
You are correct about US and almimun, same with the dip. Also second on the anti seize. I have a tube of the silver stuff. I put it on all threads on the cans. Like he said, a LITTLE dab will do ya. That crap does get everywhere. One more little trick. When I am done shooting with the cans, I loosen the caps while they are still warm/hot.

I agree with all that you said. I am looking at the lighter aluminum can for woods walking. It doesn't have to be as quiet as my Mask. Three ounces here and there makes a difference to my old joints.

 

[John from MD]

IMHO a sealed aluminum 22 can is a waste of a tax stamp. Not worth the effort of trying to clean it or send it back.

There are super light weight serviceable cans on the market.
2.5 oz https://www.eccomachine.net/product/salamander/

Thanks for the pointer. I am trying to stay with suppressors sold by silencershop since they have all my stuff and I don't want to go through fingerprinting/pictures again.

 

[outrider58]

Supposing I buy a sealed suppressor and it gets filled with lead. If I send it back to the manufacturer for cleaning, can they send it back to me without any additional paperwork?

Yes

 

[Sundazes]

Thanks for the pointer. I am trying to stay with suppressors sold by silencershop since they have all my stuff and I don't want to go through fingerprinting/pictures again.

FYI John, if the dealer is a SS dealer, the paperwork can still go through them even thought the can did not. I have done this several times. The dealer just needs to add it somehow to their inventory and mark it sold. They also assign it to you. You can buy the stamp through the SS and do a eform4. My last 90 day eform4 is now working on 6 months. But going through them is too damn easy.

 

[lazarus]

I agree with all that you said. I am looking at the lighter aluminum can for woods walking. It doesn't have to be as quiet as my Mask. Three ounces here and there makes a difference to my old joints.

Sure, I hear you. That said, most of the lighter weight steel and titanium cans are more like an ounce, or an ounce and a half heavier than any aluminum can I WOULD consider. The cheaper ones are going to be almost exclusively hunting only cans, because you are just not going to want to put all that many rounds through them. And after a few bricks, they might NOT be lighter...

Frankly I don't like cleaning things. So I don't put many rounds through my cans. That and other than hunting, my shooting is on a club range that is rarely completely empty. And for some reason, pretty much never when I am taking my 22 rifle. Anyway, I sure enjoy shooting suppressed stuff. But the only thing that makes real sense for me to shoot suppressed a lot is my 30 can. I've yet to see it make anything LESS accurate. Almost always increases accuracy. Sure, there are POI shifts all on of my guns, some very minor, some a lot more than very minor. But it reduces recoil and makes the gun more accurate. Other than more gas in my semis, its a lot of wins with little negatives.

I figure based on the number of rounds I put through my cans, it'll take a few decades to worry about my 30 cal can (Omega 300), and at least the rear mount and front cap are removable. So some of the gun can be brushed out. And dip can always be done. Centerfire rifle cans do build up gunk. Even if you get them super hot. It just takes a long time. From much reading on guys who fire a lot of rounds, figure about an ounce of crap per 3000-5000 rounds depending on what you are shooting. With most 30 cal cans easily being able to take on 3-6 ounces of crap before there would probably be noticeable impacts to suppression. I've read of guy who got 8-10oz of crap out from like 30-40k rounds through their can where the before to after effect was hugely noticeable. But the can was still working (just not nearly as well).

My 45 can is aluminum (Obsidian 45), but can be taken apart, and frankly the larger baffles make it easier to take apart. Well, plus its mostly carbon. I don't shoot straight lead through it. Just jacketed or coated bullets. So minimal leading. I've yet to take it completely apart since getting it. Then again, I've got all of like 150 rounds through it in that time (I just haven't gotten it out much since May). I notice a reasonable amount of carbon on the piston, but nothing impacting function at all. Can just wipe off.

My 22 can is an Element 2, so no sending back to AAC...I got that one not long before AAC got sold off. F*#$ers. Oh well.

Anyway, I've taken it down twice. Once when I got it. Once a few months ago. I only have about 150 or so rounds on it. It is used almost exclusively for hunting and sighting in. Once I have a threaded barrel for my buckmark it'll probably get some extra use. From what I've read, about every 500 rounds it should be cleaned. I can see that based on the level of build up in the can (pretty minimal). The disassembly tool can/will do a good job pushing out the baffles if they get stuck. Plus steel/titanium so I can always drop it in a jar of dip if I need to.

To the point of a light aluminum can, I do have eyes on a Rugged Mustang as a possibility. I am not super thrilled with aluminum baffles on a rimfire can, because of the greater care for cleaning. But it IS very light weight, and I like the idea of a modular can for rimfire to use in the short configuration on a pistol as that should still be hearing safe, if not by a ton, and shorter and lighter are big perks for hunting. Run it long for all other shooting. And Rugged seems to be making very nice stuff.

Or, a SiCo Warlock. Light. Cheap. Basic. And a possibility with some of the specials that get run that I might be able to get a Warlock "for free", just pay tax stamp to go with another SiCo can at some point. Though, with a 30 cal, a 45, and a rimfire I am covered with just about everything I want and need. That said, the SiCo Harvester EVO really caught my eye. It's a fair amount lighter than my Omega 300 (which is just under 13oz in its lightest direct thread configuration) and can share stuff with my Omega 300. And the price is EXTREMELY nice. I've been mulling over a more dedicated hunting 30 cal can and was looking at one of the all aluminum hunting models But for the price, the Harvester EVO seems like an easy win.

And then Rugged just announced their Alaskan .36 cal can that weighs a mere 11.8oz and can take up to 338LM!!!

In my search for a high power rifle I've been very on the fence. I really, really, really, like the idea of something >30 cal. But my Omega 300 won't work on that. And I don't want to spend well over $1k for what is likely a 15-20oz can to work on a HUNTING rifle that is >30 cal. So I've been looking at 300 win mag and 300wsm. But the Alaskan appears light (I am unclear if the 11.8oz is WITHOUT the actual rear mount or not). I'd need to figure out what if anything I need to get it to mount to stuff. But at least the can uses the relatively common "standard" rear size, which my Omega 300 also uses. So I doubt it would be that painful to figure out mounting solutions.

The other part is, hopefully as time goes on, NFA waits get shorter. And also, companies keep coming out with neat and innovative new stuff every year. So every year I wait, I probably have better options.

 

[teratos]

One you compare perfomance between he Mask and a "smalll, cheap, lightweight", you will not be happy with he new one. Ask me how I know. I won't purchase an aluminum 22 can anymore. A real pain in ass to clean. I have a couple and they are safe queens. SS baffles for me. A can is a lifetime purchase.

This. I got a TAC-65 years ago in a group buy. It sucked. I had it re-cored with stainless baffles. Now it’s great.

 

[vgplayer]

https://ruggedsuppressors.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/ProductSaleSheet-Alaskan.pdf

Rugged Alaskan is 11.6oz with their R.U.M. and without its 9.6oz

HUB compatible so add direct thread titanium adapter would put you about 11oz total added to gun.

 

[John from MD]

Sure, I hear you. That said, most of the lighter weight steel and titanium cans are more like an ounce, or an ounce and a half heavier than any aluminum can I WOULD consider. The cheaper ones are going to be almost exclusively hunting only cans, because you are just not going to want to put all that many rounds through them. And after a few bricks, they might NOT be lighter...

Frankly I don't like cleaning things. So I don't put many rounds through my cans. That and other than hunting, my shooting is on a club range that is rarely completely empty. And for some reason, pretty much never when I am taking my 22 rifle. Anyway, I sure enjoy shooting suppressed stuff. But the only thing that makes real sense for me to shoot suppressed a lot is my 30 can. I've yet to see it make anything LESS accurate. Almost always increases accuracy. Sure, there are POI shifts all on of my guns, some very minor, some a lot more than very minor. But it reduces recoil and makes the gun more accurate. Other than more gas in my semis, its a lot of wins with little negatives.

I figure based on the number of rounds I put through my cans, it'll take a few decades to worry about my 30 cal can (Omega 300), and at least the rear mount and front cap are removable. So some of the gun can be brushed out. And dip can always be done. Centerfire rifle cans do build up gunk. Even if you get them super hot. It just takes a long time. From much reading on guys who fire a lot of rounds, figure about an ounce of crap per 3000-5000 rounds depending on what you are shooting. With most 30 cal cans easily being able to take on 3-6 ounces of crap before there would probably be noticeable impacts to suppression. I've read of guy who got 8-10oz of crap out from like 30-40k rounds through their can where the before to after effect was hugely noticeable. But the can was still working (just not nearly as well).

My 45 can is aluminum (Obsidian 45), but can be taken apart, and frankly the larger baffles make it easier to take apart. Well, plus its mostly carbon. I don't shoot straight lead through it. Just jacketed or coated bullets. So minimal leading. I've yet to take it completely apart since getting it. Then again, I've got all of like 150 rounds through it in that time (I just haven't gotten it out much since May). I notice a reasonable amount of carbon on the piston, but nothing impacting function at all. Can just wipe off.

My 22 can is an Element 2, so no sending back to AAC...I got that one not long before AAC got sold off. F*#$ers. Oh well.

Anyway, I've taken it down twice. Once when I got it. Once a few months ago. I only have about 150 or so rounds on it. It is used almost exclusively for hunting and sighting in. Once I have a threaded barrel for my buckmark it'll probably get some extra use. From what I've read, about every 500 rounds it should be cleaned. I can see that based on the level of build up in the can (pretty minimal). The disassembly tool can/will do a good job pushing out the baffles if they get stuck. Plus steel/titanium so I can always drop it in a jar of dip if I need to.

To the point of a light aluminum can, I do have eyes on a Rugged Mustang as a possibility. I am not super thrilled with aluminum baffles on a rimfire can, because of the greater care for cleaning. But it IS very light weight, and I like the idea of a modular can for rimfire to use in the short configuration on a pistol as that should still be hearing safe, if not by a ton, and shorter and lighter are big perks for hunting. Run it long for all other shooting. And Rugged seems to be making very nice stuff.

Or, a SiCo Warlock. Light. Cheap. Basic. And a possibility with some of the specials that get run that I might be able to get a Warlock "for free", just pay tax stamp to go with another SiCo can at some point. Though, with a 30 cal, a 45, and a rimfire I am covered with just about everything I want and need. That said, the SiCo Harvester EVO really caught my eye. It's a fair amount lighter than my Omega 300 (which is just under 13oz in its lightest direct thread configuration) and can share stuff with my Omega 300. And the price is EXTREMELY nice. I've been mulling over a more dedicated hunting 30 cal can and was looking at one of the all aluminum hunting models But for the price, the Harvester EVO seems like an easy win.

And then Rugged just announced their Alaskan .36 cal can that weighs a mere 11.8oz and can take up to 338LM!!!

In my search for a high power rifle I've been very on the fence. I really, really, really, like the idea of something >30 cal. But my Omega 300 won't work on that. And I don't want to spend well over $1k for what is likely a 15-20oz can to work on a HUNTING rifle that is >30 cal. So I've been looking at 300 win mag and 300wsm. But the Alaskan appears light (I am unclear if the 11.8oz is WITHOUT the actual rear mount or not). I'd need to figure out what if anything I need to get it to mount to stuff. But at least the can uses the relatively common "standard" rear size, which my Omega 300 also uses. So I doubt it would be that painful to figure out mounting solutions.

The other part is, hopefully as time goes on, NFA waits get shorter. And also, companies keep coming out with neat and innovative new stuff every year. So every year I wait, I probably have better options.

I own Rugged suppressors and have spoken to the owners over the years. They do nice work and have great customer service. I would look at their Mustang but the Warlock .22 is over $200 bucks cheaper. Yes the Mustang is 2DB quieter but, with my 70+ old ears, it won't be noticeable.

 

[outrider58]

I own Rugged suppressors and have spoken to the owners over the years. They do nice work and have great customer service. I would look at their Mustang but the Warlock .22 is over $200 bucks cheaper. Yes the Mustang is 2DB quieter but, with my 70+ old ears, it won't be noticeable.

At the "Girls and Guns" shoot the other day, .22s were going off all around. I put my ear plugs in, but I felt silly doing it(I was a ways back off the firing line).

 

[Sundazes]

At the "Girls and Guns" shoot the other day, .22s were going off all around. I put my ear plugs in, but I felt silly doing it(I was a ways back off the firing line).

Yo hold the phone. What girls and guns shoot? You holding out on a brother?