Shed move - fork lift on grass

[axshon]

I have a one man auger with a 6 inch bit if you are digging by hand will make your life easier . Not sure if you need to use soon tubes the hole you dig can be your form then on top use a 2X4 or 2X6 to make it level to the other holes

Thanks, I'm planning to rent a trailer mounted 10" auger when the ground dries. I want this thing to STAY PUT once I set it there. I used a one man unit before and the old roots here damn near dislocated my arms. Gonna need leverage this time.

 

[Jaybeez]

Footers/piers ect for anything with a roof need to be 24" in diameter. for decks and such without a roof, 16" diameter is the norm.

concrete only needs to be in the bottom 12" of the hole, which in baltimore county only needs to be 32" deep iirc. Then you can set 6x6 posts on the footer, and set the shed on the posts.

the problem lies with the shed however. the floor is made from 4x4 sleepers instead of joists usually. they are sufficient if they are resting on the ground and have no way to deflect/flex. however the shed on corner piers/posts is a recipe for failure. the 4x4 sleepers may not even be connected to one another by more than a 20d spike.

 

[axshon]

I intend to do 20 10" footings that go 36-48" deep. I'll run 4 rows of 5 footers so that each of the foundation beam has 4 supports. My neighbor has a shed supported this way with 20 8" footings and he has pulled his truck into it to pull the engine. He went 36" deep and one corner is starting to sink so that's my reason for going bigger and a little deeper.

I won't get into what the guy from Balt Co told me about permits and permanent structures because people should do their own research. The guy I talked to didn't reference any regulations but I noted his full name and title at the time last fall when I started shimming up the corner.

 

[PapiBarcelona]

Did you build your own home? Reason I ask, maybe who did hauled in some crappy fill for the yard since you all are having sinking sheds.

Maybe a little water irrigation is in order too?

 

[axshon]

No, houses in this neighborhood were terraced and built over an old peach orchard in 1959. The fill is not the best and a few have done some additional work over the years. Drainage is a problem and basement flooding is common (though not in my house so far).

Behind my house is about 15 acres of county land with about a 3 acre man-made pond for runoff from UMBC and a graveyard. The land is supposed to remain 'unimproved' but there are some old growth oaks that have died and fallen across the main runoff areas causing pooling. It was not uncommon to find 2 feet of standing water just past my property line. I took a rake, shovel and chainsaw to a bunch of it last year and more this year to open 'the river' up so there is no longer standing water. Its an ongoing thing and I'm trying to convince my state and county reps to allow me to annex the .6 acre sliver right behind my house so I can put in real drainage down to the pond and cull the dead wood. This particular spot is good property for me and a couple others but there is no easement so it's useless to anyone else. Proper drainage will save at least 5 homes from annual flooding danger. My neighbor's garage was pretty much ruined but he doesn't have the money to fix or remove it. My problem is finding the right person to talk to and saying the right combination of words. Till then I have to do the best I can on my own land. I can't even let my kids play back there because of the number of uprooted trees leaning on others. It's like an earthquake when one of them finally falls every few months.

 

[longgunnewb]

I would highly recommend a tracked skidsteer as well. It will save your yard from being rutted or worse, getting stuck.

 

[Jaybeez]

I intend to do 20 10" footings that go 36-48" deep. I'll run 4 rows of 5 footers so that each of the foundation beam has 4 supports. My neighbor has a shed supported this way with 20 8" footings and he has pulled his truck into it to pull the engine. He went 36" deep and one corner is starting to sink so that's my reason for going bigger and a little deeper.

I won't get into what the guy from Balt Co told me about permits and permanent structures because people should do their own research. The guy I talked to didn't reference any regulations but I noted his full name and title at the time last fall when I started shimming up the corner.

you are going way overkill with 20 footers, and 10" diameter still wont be code for a roofed structure. adding more doesnt make up for insufficiency.

you only need 4 footers, 24 inch diameter, and 2 beams. triple treated 2x8 should be enough. it would place the shed 8" off the ground. put the center of the footers about 8" in from each corner. run the beams between the footers whichever direction supports the 4x4 joists (not the rim).