Questions from a Newbie Reloader

[zebramochaman]

I have made the decision to suspend my gun purchases and to divert those funds to the art of reloading.

After a considerable amount of research I have acquired: a Lee Classic Turret Press Kit from Kempf with .38 Special/.357 Magnum Dies, Safety Primer System and Disc Powder Measure, a Lyman 1200 Vibrating Case Tumbler w/Corn Cob Media and brass polish, a Lyman case trimmer, a Kinetic bullet puller a 750 grain digital scale and a Lyman case lube kit. I also have reloading manuals from Lyman, Lee and Nosler. I still need to pick up a Vernier Caliper and a case prep tool for cleaning the primer pockets/flash holes and a chamfor/deburring tool. I have not yet purchased components. I will need bullets, powders and primers. I have tons of brass since I have been studious in policing my brass at the range with the thought of reloading in the future.
My strategy is to start out reloading for my revolvers since they are the easiest to get right (from what I have been able to learn from research). I will then delve into reloading for my semi-autos and finally go to my rifles.
Now to the Questions:

1. Have I forgot any essentials in what I have purchased?
2, What brands of brass are the best to reload. (I fired some MFS rounds that I had 3 split cases out of a 50 round box).
3. How many times is it safe to reload brass?
4. I am planning to start off with Universal powder since it can be used in a wide varieties of calibers. Any thoughts or tips?
5. How many brass cleaning cycles do you go before replacing the media?
6. Which brass cleaning media is better, Corn Cob or Walnut?
7. Have you had any problems reloading brass fired from a Glock? (a lot of my brass has been fired through my G-32 and G-21).
8. What are the most common Newbie mistakes that I can avoid?
9. What primers do you prefer and why?
10. What was the worst mistake that you made when you first started reloading?

 

[pcfixer]

I have made the decision to suspend my gun purchases and to divert those funds to the art of reloading.

After a considerable amount of research I have acquired: a Lee Classic Turret Press Kit from Kempf with .38 Special/.357 Magnum Dies, Safety Primer System and Disc Powder Measure, a Lyman 1200 Vibrating Case Tumbler w/Corn Cob Media and brass polish, a Lyman case trimmer, a Kinetic bullet puller a 750 grain digital scale and a Lyman case lube kit. I also have reloading manuals from Lyman, Lee and Nosler. I still need to pick up a Vernier Caliper and a case prep tool for cleaning the primer pockets/flash holes and a chamfor/deburring tool. I have not yet purchased components. I will need bullets, powders and primers. I have tons of brass since I have been studious in policing my brass at the range with the thought of reloading in the future.
My strategy is to start out reloading for my revolvers since they are the easiest to get right (from what I have been able to learn from research). I will then delve into reloading for my semi-autos and finally go to my rifles.
Now to the Questions:

1. Have I forgot any essentials in what I have purchased?
2, What brands of brass are the best to reload. (I fired some MFS rounds that I had 3 split cases out of a 50 round box).
3. How many times is it safe to reload brass?
4. I am planning to start off with Universal powder since it can be used in a wide varieties of calibers. Any thoughts or tips?
5. How many brass cleaning cycles do you go before replacing the media?
6. Which brass cleaning media is better, Corn Cob or Walnut?
7. Have you had any problems reloading brass fired from a Glock? (a lot of my brass has been fired through my G-32 and G-21).
8. What are the most common Newbie mistakes that I can avoid?
9. What primers do you prefer and why?
10. What was the worst mistake that you made when you first started reloading?

..

1. Always something you need.. digital calipers for COAL
2. for me doesn't matter what brand. shot once brass is good when cleaned.
3. how many times depends on load. as few as 5 and many as 10 or more. if the primer
stays in pocket reload.. hope brass does'n't split.
4. For hands. Universal Clays okay. I use TG and Clays for 45 acp and 45LC

10. worst mistakes are not enough lube on full length resize caused the brass to stick
and break of in shellholder..
#2. Not loading powder in before bullets ..causes a squib..Big NO NO.

 

[Darkemp]

..

1. Always something you need.. digital calipers for COAL
2. for me doesn't matter what brand. shot once brass is good when cleaned.
3. how many times depends on load. as few as 5 and many as 10 or more. if the primer
stays in pocket reload.. hope brass does'n't split.
4. For hands. Universal Clays okay. I use TG and Clays for 45 acp and 45LC

10. worst mistakes are not enough lube on full length resize caused the brass to stick
and break of in shellholder..
#2. Not loading powder in before bullets ..causes a squib..Big NO NO.

I'll give you an answer to #8:

I was originally cleaning cases in a dishwasher basket and apparently loaded a few that weren't 100% dry. Sometime later the wet powder created a squib 9mm round in my USP9. The round fired, but the next round wouldn't fully chamber by about 1/4". A quick field strip on the range almost made me crap my pants when I saw the bullet lodged in the barrel. Another 1/4" and I would have been lucky to have been uninvited, much less the pistol destroyed. After that I bought a tumbler.

 

[Darkemp]

..

1. Always something you need.. digital calipers for COAL
2. for me doesn't matter what brand. shot once brass is good when cleaned.
3. how many times depends on load. as few as 5 and many as 10 or more. if the primer
stays in pocket reload.. hope brass does'n't split.
4. For hands. Universal Clays okay. I use TG and Clays for 45 acp and 45LC

10. worst mistakes are not enough lube on full length resize caused the brass to stick
and break of in shellholder..
#2. Not loading powder in before bullets ..causes a squib..Big NO NO.

MUST LUBE BOTTLENECK CASES!!!

 

[damifinowfish]

take your time

only load 100 at a time

If you find a mistake you only have to pull apart 100 or less

Find some one to work with you

 

[Lex Armarum]

I have made the decision to suspend my gun purchases and to divert those funds to the art of reloading.

After a considerable amount of research I have acquired: a Lee Classic Turret Press Kit from Kempf with .38 Special/.357 Magnum Dies, Safety Primer System and Disc Powder Measure, a Lyman 1200 Vibrating Case Tumbler w/Corn Cob Media and brass polish, a Lyman case trimmer, a Kinetic bullet puller a 750 grain digital scale and a Lyman case lube kit. I also have reloading manuals from Lyman, Lee and Nosler. I still need to pick up a Vernier Caliper and a case prep tool for cleaning the primer pockets/flash holes and a chamfor/deburring tool. I have not yet purchased components. I will need bullets, powders and primers. I have tons of brass since I have been studious in policing my brass at the range with the thought of reloading in the future.
My strategy is to start out reloading for my revolvers since they are the easiest to get right (from what I have been able to learn from research). I will then delve into reloading for my semi-autos and finally go to my rifles.
Now to the Questions:

1. Have I forgot any essentials in what I have purchased?
2, What brands of brass are the best to reload. (I fired some MFS rounds that I had 3 split cases out of a 50 round box).
3. How many times is it safe to reload brass?
4. I am planning to start off with Universal powder since it can be used in a wide varieties of calibers. Any thoughts or tips?
5. How many brass cleaning cycles do you go before replacing the media?
6. Which brass cleaning media is better, Corn Cob or Walnut?
7. Have you had any problems reloading brass fired from a Glock? (a lot of my brass has been fired through my G-32 and G-21).
8. What are the most common Newbie mistakes that I can avoid?
9. What primers do you prefer and why?
10. What was the worst mistake that you made when you first started reloading?

A. If Ed Shell chimes in, his advice is by far the most valuable and probably the most accurate so read closely when he gives his input.

B. When you say "Universal powder" what do you mean? There are pistol powders and rifle powders. There are slow burning powders and fast burning powders. There are different recipes. I encourage you to read your reloading manuals for each caliber you plan to reload and pick a powder common to all rounds. For instance, I use 4350 in many of my rifle reloads because the manuals specify loads in 4350 for each caliber that I am reloading. Make sure you are using the correct powder for the caliber(s) you are reloading.

C. You can reload brass so long as case integrity remains intact. Some brass is thicker then others and lasts longer (e.g. Fiocchi vs. Remington-Peters). You need to make sure that your cartridge walls are sufficiently thick to withstand the chamber pressures. I've had cases crack in two in the chamber because my brass was worn out.

D. The only time you would like have trouble reloading brass from a particular brand of rifle or pistol is if firing process or ejector damages the brass somehow. Most damages will be rectified once you trim and size the casings.

E. Common newbie mistakes include: underloading, overloading, forgetting to lube the cartridge, forgetting to charge the round.

F. Primers can vary in hardness. Wolf primers seem to be the hardest and I was reading somewhere that Winchester primers are on the softer side. I use CCI or Fiocchi primers.

G. Worst mistake I've made so far is forgetting to charge a round but I caught it before I loaded it. Since I don't use a progressive press and I'm particularly anal about my loads, I tend to go over board with checking and rechecking and its helped me avoid costly and dangerous errors.

F. READ THE DAMN BOOKS FIRST and you should be OK.

 

[87Theworld]

For cleaning try the corncob media. Read you manual and check behind yourself and equipment.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

I have made the decision to suspend my gun purchases and to divert those funds to the art of reloading.

After a considerable amount of research I have acquired: a Lee Classic Turret Press Kit from Kempf with .38 Special/.357 Magnum Dies, Safety Primer System and Disc Powder Measure, a Lyman 1200 Vibrating Case Tumbler w/Corn Cob Media and brass polish, a Lyman case trimmer, a Kinetic bullet puller a 750 grain digital scale and a Lyman case lube kit. I also have reloading manuals from Lyman, Lee and Nosler. I still need to pick up a Vernier Caliper and a case prep tool for cleaning the primer pockets/flash holes and a chamfor/deburring tool. I have not yet purchased components. I will need bullets, powders and primers. I have tons of brass since I have been studious in policing my brass at the range with the thought of reloading in the future.
My strategy is to start out reloading for my revolvers since they are the easiest to get right (from what I have been able to learn from research). I will then delve into reloading for my semi-autos and finally go to my rifles.
Now to the Questions:

1. Have I forgot any essentials in what I have purchased?
2, What brands of brass are the best to reload. (I fired some MFS rounds that I had 3 split cases out of a 50 round box).
3. How many times is it safe to reload brass?
4. I am planning to start off with Universal powder since it can be used in a wide varieties of calibers. Any thoughts or tips?
5. How many brass cleaning cycles do you go before replacing the media?
6. Which brass cleaning media is better, Corn Cob or Walnut?
7. Have you had any problems reloading brass fired from a Glock? (a lot of my brass has been fired through my G-32 and G-21).
8. What are the most common Newbie mistakes that I can avoid?
9. What primers do you prefer and why?
10. What was the worst mistake that you made when you first started reloading?

1-Things also needed - if the trimmer is a lathe type, you will need pilots, and shell holders that are caliber specific - unless you bought a master kit, that includes all of them. Some kits do have all the pilots and shell plates. A Case beburring/chamfer tool is a must after trimming a case. Get yourself a set of digital calipers for measuring case lengths, and well as COL. Midway always puts them on sale, and you can find a decent one for not too much money. I would also look into getting some ammo boxes that your attach your load data, to as well. Also get a notebook, and make an ammo logbook, to keep your load data (pet loads) that work for you. Ill attach some printable load data sheets that you can use at the end of this post. Its in PDF format, so you will need Adobe Acrobat reader.

2-Brands of brass that is best really varies. Id suggest that you load your brass by at least the same headstamps - by exact lot is better, but not always possible. Case capacity can & does vary, which leads to inconsitency , if you mix headstamps- if your loading for accuracy. Ive personaly have had great luck with Winchester brass. But even the best brass, can have issues, such as mouth splits at the first firing.

3- There is no stated amount of how many times a piece of brass can be loaded. Methods of reloading and resizing, vary from one person to another. Its important that you inspect your brass. The single most dangerours case failure, is a case head seperation. This failure is what causes damage to firearms, and the shooter. Splits at the mouth, is somewhat common. Some cases never do. Splits mouths do not usally do damage, but ends the cases life. For bottleneck cases (rifles), and inexpensive way to check for thinning above the case head, is to use a stiff piece of wire (an unfolded paper clip can work) dont use pipe cleaners, or something soft. Insert the wire, and feel around the case towards the case head on the walls of the body of the case. if you feel an indentation, the case is probably getting to thin, and should be discarded. Sometimes a bright ring will form on the body of the case, towards the case head (above the wbbing) this is a sign of thinning or running to hot, or excessive headspacing - discard the case. One of the best ways to check, is to use something like a Case Master gauge, which is basically a dial guage, used to check run out. You will get an actual number of how consistent the case wall is.

Winchester is one of the few companies that states in there manual to discard the case, after its fifth trimming.

Straightwall pistol brass lasts along time. Most reload them until the mouth splits. but again you need to inspect the brass for cracks & damage, and discard any that shows issues.

4. As far as powder selection - thats usally trial and error. Follow powder recommendation in your loading manuals. What works great in one gun, may not in another.

5. Brass tumbling - tumbler media lasts a longtime. I replace it once it stops working well. How long varies. Walnut shell is a better cleaner (especially for carbon stains) corn cob is a better poilsher. Also try some liquid Flitz in your media, that stuff throws an amazing clean shine on your cases. DO NOT use any additives that contain Ammonia. Ammoinia imbrittles brass. Makes sure what ever additives you use, says it contains NO AMMONIA!

7. Glocks. Yes there is some issues with brass from certain Glocks - especially the ones chambered in 40S&W. Some Glocks do not fully support the case when chambering, resulting in a bulge ring towards the case head. Glock (and some other makes like older P series Rugers) did this to ensure feeding. Its one of the reason you hear people say that Glocks eat anything you feed it, but the results is an annoying bulge ring on the case, and from a handloaders standpoint, thats not a great thing. Fortunatly there are tools to remove that bulge. Both Redding and Lee make tools for this. Both work off the same principle.

8. One of the most common mistakes - is to just assume. If your not sure about something -ask. Most reloading firms have help lines, or online help. Some dont care whos brand of stuff you use either.

Powder charging is where you need to pay close attention! In pistols, it is possible to double charge a case, since powders dont usally fill the case. Some pistols calibers, it is even possible to put 3 charges in a case. Overcharging a pistol case, is very dangerous. Make sure you are putting the proper charge in the case. If you single stage load, one thing I do, is to turn all your case primer side up in the loading tray. Charge one case at a time, and place it back into the loading tray (mouthside up obviously). The ones that are primer side up - you know have not been charged. Before you go and seat bullets, take a flashlight, and look into all the cases, and make sure that there are no empties or cases that look like they have more powder then others. A no charge can be just as dangerous as a double charge. You create a squib load with no or low powder charge. The primer itself has enough force to unseat a bullet, but usally it lodges the bullet into the bore. Follow it with another shot, that is loaded, and you have a barrel rupture -at the least.

9. Primer preference will vary from one shooter to another. Pay attention to what style primer a load recipe calls for. Dont substitue a magnum if it does not call for it. Very few, but some pistol loads call for a rifle primers. Make sure you use the style primer that is called for in your load data.

Personally I like Winchester primers. Ive never had one not fire -ever. But Ive had luck with other brands as well.

10. Worst mistake - I can honestly say, I never had to pull a single cartridge apart, and Ive been pleased with everything I handloaded. But I also make sure I understand every step, and read everything before doing. Also make sure you reload while undistracted. Dont reload in front of a TV, turn off the radio, and keep your mind at the task at hand.

Youve made a very wise decision getting into reloading. Anyone who is serious about shooting, or owns multiple firearms, should learn to handload. You going to notice an improvement in accuracy in your firearms - if the shooter, and reloader did everything right.

Good Luck and be safe! ... and here is the log book page you can use to keep your load data. Its is couresty of the Reloading Bench.com:

 

[K31]

B. When you say "Universal powder" what do you mean? There are pistol powders and rifle powders. There are slow burning powders and fast burning powders.

I assume he's talking about Hodgdon UNIVERSAL Clays Shotgun/Pistol powder.

 

[K31]

1. Have I forgot any essentials in what I have purchased?

Safety glasses.

You need a study bench and a quiet place to reload.

Case blocks. I prefer the ones for specific calibers rather than the all-size-fits-none.

Logbook.

Some funnels are invaluable. Especially with those wide-mouth Hodgdon containers.

A few empty containers for sorting between steps. I like plastic coffee "cans".

Boxes for finished ammo and labels.

An assortment of colored Sharpies.

8. What are the most common Newbie mistakes that I can avoid?

Concentrate on what you are doing only don't try to watch TV or multitask during measuring or assembly steps. Tell the wife and kids to leave you in peace.

10. What was the worst mistake that you made when you first started reloading?

Spilled a rifle cartridge's worth of powder on some berber rug under my reloading area. I had a hell of a time getting it up without a vacuum which I didn't want to use for fear of igniting it. Luckily it wasn't more than that.

 

[zebramochaman]

Thank you for all of the great responses.
My decision to start out with Universal powder was made because I intend to reload for a variety of calibers. I created a spreadsheet of powders from my manuals that shows what powders can be used in each caliber. Universal can be used in all of those calibers I intend to load for. (9mm Mak, 9mm Luger, 38Spl, 357 Mag, 357 SIG, 40 S&W, 45ACP, 45 Colt 44Spl and 44 Mag). Unique is common to most of these and there are others that I can use across the board for these calibers. I will buy other powders from my analysis to make comparative loads.
One other question for my new reloading Guru's; I live in MoCo, are there restrictions as to how much powder can be stored in your home? I read on another forum about the Fire Marshals in certain municipalities restricting the amounts of powder that can be stored. Does the same thing hold for primers?

 

[tdt91]

In MD the Fire marshall says 5 pounds max. There was just a thread on this with the law copied and pasted.

 

[A. Wayne]

Check your powder charges in cases for uniform levels before seating bullets to ensure there are no squibs or doubles.
I've loaded the same .38 brass forever until the cracked. The cracks were no big deal, I just didn't use them any more.

 

[A. Wayne]

Make sure you are using the correct shell holder! Wrong one will work very well at getting your brass stuck in the re-sizing die, and not removing it.

 

[K31]

I live in MoCo, are there restrictions as to how much powder can be stored in your home? I read on another forum about the Fire Marshals in certain municipalities restricting the amounts of powder that can be stored. Does the same thing hold for primers?

The law reads that a person is allowed to possess 5 pounds of smokeless and 5 pounds of black powder for reloading for firearms as long as it is not in a multifamily dwelling. As someone else as already pointed out this is the Maryland state fire code.

I have never found anything about primers except for businesses.

http://firemarshal.state.md.us/expl.htm

 

[jimbobborg]

I use walnut media for all of my tumbling. I buy in bulk from Petco, it's called Lizard Litter. If you haven't bought the tumbler yet, hit up Harbor Freight and snag one of their big tumblers, they work and will hold more than the Lyman tumblers do.

 

[zebramochaman]

OK, so I set up my press and dies and I seated/crimped a bullet in a unprimed/unloaded cleaned/lubed case. My load data says that the OAL for the case should be 1.155" and the minimum cartridge OAL should be 1.455.
My once-fired brass measures 1.144 and after seating a 140gr XTP bullet the cartridge OAL comes in at 1.426. When I seated the bullet I went just deep enough to cover the cantilure (spelling?).
I measured a cartridge from a box of Blazer factory 125gr fmj and the OAL is 1.418.
Am I good with these measurements or am I doing something wrong?

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

First thing first - what round are we talking about here?

You going to see 2 lengths in reloading manuals. The maximum case length is just for the empty case. There should be a listed "trim to length" You check case length after you resize the case, as its gets pushed back into dimension when sizing. If the case is too long, it should be trimmed.

The 2nd listed length is COL, which is cartridge overall length. That is the length of the entire round loaded, and bullet seated. Bullet seating depth controls the OAL of the round.

COL WILL vary by bullet design & brand, depending on where the ogvie on the bullet starts.

 

[zebramochaman]

First thing first - what round are we talking about here?

You going to see 2 lengths in reloading manuals. The maximum case length is just for the empty case. There should be a listed "trim to length" You check case length after you resize the case, as its gets pushed back into dimension when sizing. If the case is too long, it should be trimmed.

The 2nd listed length is COL, which is cartridge overall length. That is the length of the entire round loaded, and bullet seated. Bullet seating depth controls the OAL of the round.

COL WILL vary by bullet design & brand, depending on where the ogvie on the bullet starts.

I am setting up to load 38 Special. The load data indicates that the max case OAL should be 1.155 and that the minimum Cartridge OAL should be 1.455. This data is specific for the bullets I am using (Hornady XTP 140gr JHP) and the powder I plan to use (Hodgdon Universal).
The cases I am measuring have been resized and deprimed.

 

[Mildot]

Thanks for all the info. I plan to start reloading soon and the information is very helpful.