Primer pocket reamer recommendations

[Rem700fan]

Getting ready to start loading .223/5.56. I have about 1000 rds of once fired LC brass. In order to remove the primer crimp, I am looking to get a reamer to remove them. Are any brands or types better than others? Any that should be avoided? Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Reloader]

I use the RCBS swagger tool and haven't had any problems.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

Why not look into a swager? The RCBS primer pocket swaging dies work well, and are not expenisive (about $30) You can swage both large & small primer pockets with that die, and you use your press to swage.

You can get a bench mount unit, but they are pricey, and take up more space.

Reaming that many case primer pockets will give you sore hands.

 

[BUFF7MM]

Yes to the RCBS swaging die set works perfectly.

 

[JDBoss]

swaging die is really the only way to go. Especially with the number of cases you mentioned. (Been there done that took many years to finally break down and get a swaging die). After that it's one of those, "Why the heck didn't I do this 20 years ago?" LOL

 

[Rem700fan]

Thanks, I knew you guys would point me in the right direction. A swaging die it is. The hand reamers did look like one of those PITA things I would want to replace later, but then again, that is why I asked.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

Thanks, I knew you guys would point me in the right direction. A swaging die it is. The hand reamers did look like one of those PITA things I would want to replace later, but then again, that is why I asked.

You have the same press I do... the RCBS swaging die works well on that set up.

Read the instructions that comes with the die well. You are putting alot of leverage on that swaging rod, and if you dont adjust the die it as its stated in the dumbrections, you can bend that rod. RCBS will give you another one if you do, but then you get delayed processing your brass waiting for it to arrive.

 

[Jaybeez]

i use the hornady reamer chucked in a small screw gun.

it wont over cut, it has a squared off tip that just barely touches bottom. one bucket of crimped brass and another bucket for reamed brass and it takes me about 2 seconds per case. just a quick touch and push and done. if you already have a drill, the reamer will only cost you about $10 online. another plus is that there is no different setup between different brass and calibers like with a swaging tool.

 

[Half-cocked]

+yet another for the RCBS swager.

 

[coopermania]

DILLON bench mounted swedging tool.... its fast, does a excellent job,,, It works so well RCBS copied it.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

DILLON bench mounted swedging tool.... its fast, does a excellent job,,, It works so well RCBS copied it.

You read that on Snipershide ... didn't ya?

 

[Rem700fan]

You read that on Snipershide ... didn't ya?

Let me guess...3% chance he did.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

Let me guess...3% chance he did.

Something tells me that whole 3% thing will be a permanent staple on MDS.

 

[coopermania]

SHHHsh. Piney told me all about DILLON EQUIPMENT 30 yrs before I met him. The next thing he will know everything about is Berger Bullets.
Now that I have been caught I will just slink back under my ghillie suit and fade away quietly.

 

[mark1070]

Dillon super swager. Period.

Sent from my SCH-I200 using Tapatalk

 

[SneakySh0rty]

I use the RCBS swagger tool and haven't had any problems.

Why not look into a swager? The RCBS primer pocket swaging dies work well, and are not expenisive (about $30) You can swage both large & small primer pockets with that die, and you use your press to swage.

You can get a bench mount unit, but they are pricey, and take up more space.

Reaming that many case primer pockets will give you sore hands.

I've cleaned, resized my brass, and cut them down to spec. But for the life of me, how much force does it take to remove the crimp? I have the RCBS swaging die, do you swage past the beveled edge or just to the start of it? My eyesight isnt the best and ive looked at pics of crimped/uncrimped and I just cant tell the difference with my brass.

 

[stu929]

I bought a small and large reamer from lyman chucked them in a drill and went to town. Yeah you have 1k to do but you will only do them once. I got them for 10 bucks each couldn't get myself to spend that much on the Dillon.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

I've cleaned, resized my brass, and cut them down to spec. But for the life of me, how much force does it take to remove the crimp? I have the RCBS swaging die, do you swage past the beveled edge or just to the start of it? My eyesight isnt the best and ive looked at pics of crimped/uncrimped and I just cant tell the difference with my brass.

Set the die, so that your press just lightly cams over, and thats it. You just want to make sure the swaging head is flush with the case head.
Just dont make the mistake of setting the swage amount with the swaging rod. The rod needs to be screwed ALL the way flush into the die, and locked down with nut. The actual adjustment is done with the die body.

Its a good idea to sort your 223 brass by headstamps, before you swage them. You'll find some brands will need to readjust the die, to lessen or increase the amount of swaging.

 

[SneakySh0rty]

Set the die, so that your press just lightly cams over, and thats it. You just want to make sure the swaging head is flush with the case head.
Just dont make the mistake of setting the swage amount with the swaging rod. The rod needs to be screwed ALL the way flush into the die, and locked down with nut. The actual adjustment is done with the die body.

Its a good idea to sort your 223 brass by headstamps, before you swage them. You'll find some brands will need to readjust the die, to lessen or increase the amount of swaging.

Alright I have it cams over a bit, I just wanted to double check if I was doing it right. You mean have the rod flush with the die opening at the bottom? Already sorted my brass so im I think im GTG I guess I was concerned about a possibility of over swaging. But that would require a lot of force.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

Alright I have it cams over a bit, I just wanted to double check if I was doing it right. You mean have the rod flush with the die opening at the bottom? Already sorted my brass so im I think im GTG I guess I was concerned about a possibility of over swaging. But that would require a lot of force.

The swaging rod needs to be fully screwed into the die body, and locked down on top of the die with the nut. Use a screw driver in the slotted part of the rod that comes up through the die. If you dont tighten the swaging rod fully, it will bend when you swage. You dont need to wring down the rod, just flush & snug so all the threads are used up by the die.

The actual amount of swaging is controlled by turning the whole die in or out of your press threads.