New to archery....X-Factor going full retard inside

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  • Compound bow brand you prefer? Explain choice in post please


    • Total voters
      17

    X-Factor

    I don't say please
    Jun 2, 2009
    5,244
    Calvert County
    So...yeah. Been wanting to learn for a while now, trying to soak up some knowledge before dropping any big coin on something. I know NOTHING, and finding a reliable source of info is hard, hard to know that what I'm being told is the truth (imagine a gun n00b going into Dicks....what would happen?). Just when I think I've found 100% solid intel someone contradicts it. Been told Hoyt is the way to go, then no....Bowtech...no, get Matthews. How can one objectively know quality? Anyone that knows me knows I do not care about cost as much as I do about QUALITY...reliability and function; bit of an obsession really, wish my taste in women were as high.

    Why archery? Because bullets run out...and as I discovered yesterday dicking off at, well Dicks, it's alot of fun. First 5 arrows at 7yds was grouped to about 4"...I think that's good for the first time picking a bow up?

    Will X-Factor be hunting? Mebbe eventually...once my skill is up to par, my stomach turns at the thought of a long trail of a suffering deer because I suck.

    Are you willing to buy used? Absolutely, if the quality is there. Got my eye on a used Bowtech Insanity that I might grab next week...might.

    Will you post pictures that include feet? Is this a serious question? This IS still MDS, right?

    Dicks "sized" me at a 29-30" draw and 50lb pull...Presumably that's correct but I'm headed to Zimmerman's next week and I'll have them do it again to check Dicks (heh).

    I know I like compound, not really interested in long/recurve just yet, and I don't "get" crossbows for now. Quick release and all the "goodies" seem cool and quite functional.

    Thanks for the help, hope the post wasn't too meandering. Poll coming.
     

    Engine4

    Curmudgeon
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 30, 2012
    7,018
    I've been thinking of getting into archery as well. And I too know nothing about it. Fortunately there's a place near me that specializes in it & has an indoor range where I can try out everything they have & get instruction too.
     

    Inigoes

    Head'n for the hills
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 21, 2008
    49,665
    SoMD / West PA
    Any of the big names that has been around a while are good: Hoyt/Bowtech/Matthews/Mission/Bear

    50# is a good poundage, because most mechanical broadheads deploy use that as a minimum.

    Used bows should be purchased with caution. Have someone knowledgable/reputable go over it in detail.

    Don't forget about J&J outdoors in Hughesville as another source.
     

    X-Factor

    I don't say please
    Jun 2, 2009
    5,244
    Calvert County
    Ahh nice. Didn't know the broadheads deploy based on speed. Cool to know. Any recommendations on shafts/heads for "field" use? Should I use nice shafts with crappy target heads for practice or also use crappy cheap arrows?
     

    Inigoes

    Head'n for the hills
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 21, 2008
    49,665
    SoMD / West PA
    Ahh nice. Didn't know the broadheads deploy based on speed. Cool to know. Any recommendations on shafts/heads for "field" use? Should I use nice shafts with crappy target heads for practice or also use crappy cheap arrows?

    You should use target points starting out, because you are mainly practicing and they are cheaper.

    The shaft carbon fiber or aluminum is based upon your preference. Stay away from wood shafts. Wood shafts can break, sticking into your forearm using a compound bow.

    The big difference between aluminum and carbon: aluminum shafts bend, where carbon breaks.

    You will want to practice with the arrows, that you plan to hunt with. The name of the game is consistency. When you get ready to hunt, you will replace the field points with the broadheads to validate your accuracy. broadheads may fly differently than field points.


    There is no such thing as a cheap arrow anymore. lol
     

    VNVGUNNER

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 13, 2006
    2,840
    Hebron, Md.
    Go to your local pro shop and have them check your draw length. Shoot a few bows to find what feels good to you before you buy. A good shop will work with you.
     

    X-Factor

    I don't say please
    Jun 2, 2009
    5,244
    Calvert County
    You should use target points starting out, because you are mainly practicing and they are cheaper.

    The shaft carbon fiber or aluminum is based upon your preference. Stay away from wood shafts. Wood shafts can break, sticking into your forearm using a compound bow.

    The big difference between aluminum and carbon: aluminum shafts bend, where carbon breaks.

    You will want to practice with the arrows, that you plan to hunt with. The name of the game is consistency. When you get ready to hunt, you will replace the field points with the broadheads to validate your accuracy. broadheads may fly differently than field points.


    There is no such thing as a cheap arrow anymore. lol

    Good, thanks. Kinda what I was thinking, but wasn't sure. I was looking at it like cheap plinking ammo vs HD ammo...guess it doesn't really apply when talking about arrows. Heads yeah.

    Go to your local pro shop and have them check your draw length. Shoot a few bows to find what feels good to you before you buy. A good shop will work with you.

    I shall. Thanks.
     

    outrider58

    Cold Damp Spaces
    MDS Supporter
    Go to your local pro shop and have them check your draw length. Shoot a few bows to find what feels good to you before you buy. A good shop will work with you.

    I cannot stress this enough.^^ Most pro shops have a good stock of decent used bows. Probably the top of your list IMHO is Mathews. They are the front runners in pioneering as far as new bow design/technology goes and quality is second to none.$$$$ though. In the end, you'll want something that is accurate and enjoyable to shoot.
     

    MikeTF

    Ultimate Member
    If I had the choice between arrows and bullets, bullets win every time. Arrows become damaged quickly and have to be rebuilt, refurbished, or replaced. Lose one and they are expensive. Keep in mind however, that when I shoot for hunting purposes, my arrows have hunting heads and lighted nocks. Fletchings have to be reattached and replaced often (the fins on the arrow). Bullets are cheaper on a cost per shot basis.
     

    X-Factor

    I don't say please
    Jun 2, 2009
    5,244
    Calvert County
    Only one I've shot is one of the rack models at Dicks...Aside from the variables that can be changed the only other thing I THINK would be nicer is a high let off %. Frankly I LIKED the one I shot at Dicks but I know it's el-cheapo. Guess I need to put my hands on alot of different types as suggested.
     

    X-Factor

    I don't say please
    Jun 2, 2009
    5,244
    Calvert County
    If I had the choice between arrows and bullets, bullets win every time. Arrows become damaged quickly and have to be rebuilt, refurbished, or replaced. Lose one and they are expensive. Keep in mind however, that when I shoot for hunting purposes, my arrows have hunting heads and lighted nocks. Fletchings have to be reattached and replaced often (the fins on the arrow). Bullets are cheaper on a cost per shot basis.

    Facts I've sort of figured out but hadn't done a cost/benefit analysis...my logic is I should know how to shoot a bow, and be able to use it to survive because bullets will eventually run out. SHTF logic, anyway.
     

    MikeTF

    Ultimate Member
    Facts I've sort of figured out but hadn't done a cost/benefit analysis...my logic is I should know how to shoot a bow, and be able to use it to survive because bullets will eventually run out. SHTF logic, anyway.
    Don't get me wrong, you're going to love archery. Sometimes I just like to go out and shoot a bow: crossbow or compound, even a recurve every once in a while.
     

    X-Factor

    I don't say please
    Jun 2, 2009
    5,244
    Calvert County
    Oh I have no doubt I'm gonna love it...can't wait to get set up and shoot more...something I can actually practice at home as stress relief/unwinding that's productive.

    New roommate shoots, so I'll have someone else to shoot with.
     

    Overboost44

    6th gear
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 10, 2013
    6,656
    Kent Island
    You should use target points starting out, because you are mainly practicing and they are cheaper.

    The shaft carbon fiber or aluminum is based upon your preference. Stay away from wood shafts. Wood shafts can break, sticking into your forearm using a compound bow.

    The big difference between aluminum and carbon: aluminum shafts bend, where carbon breaks.

    You will want to practice with the arrows, that you plan to hunt with. The name of the game is consistency. When you get ready to hunt, you will replace the field points with the broadheads to validate your accuracy. broadheads may fly differently than field points.


    There is no such thing as a cheap arrow anymore. lol


    Tell me about it. I just paid $109 for a dozen with field tips :shocked:

    This is all good info. I will add that IMO a high quality older bow is better than a middle quality new bow. These manufactures come out with new models every year and that is fine, but a bow from 10 years ago will still kill a deer the same as it did 10 years ago. If you can save a couple hundred on a used bow, I say go for it.
     

    kstone803

    Official Meat Getter
    Feb 25, 2009
    3,928
    Ltown in the SMC
    What's a DISADVANTAGE of buying an older bow?

    Limbs and strings eventually wear and need to be replaced. Can also become unsafe to shoot. That's why you always want a good bow tech to look over anything used. Last thing you want is a limb to unload next to your face with 65 pounds of pressure on it. And as for arrows I bought the bass pro brand X5 Blackout and they shoot great. $60 a dozen and that included inserts. Oh also they have blazer vanes.
     

    Inigoes

    Head'n for the hills
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 21, 2008
    49,665
    SoMD / West PA
    What's a DISADVANTAGE of buying an older bow?

    It can hurt you. If the bow has not been inspected by a knowledgable person.

    Older bows are a little slower, longer, and heavier.

    In bowhunting there is a term called "jumping the string". When you shoot a bow at a deer, deer react quickly and can literally jump over the arrow being flung at it.
     

    outrider58

    Cold Damp Spaces
    MDS Supporter
    Parallel limbs. Don't know what that means, but got it.

    Arrows or heads?

    Most compounds are made with them, now a days. Even the less expensive ones. Another innovation by Mathews as well as the 'single cam bow(lot of copy-cats of those too). Older bows, not so much.
    Field points for practice. Usually 100gr (they must be same weight as your broad heads). If you're only shooting 50#, shoot static broad heads, not mechanical. At that speed most will fail to deploy properly resulting in poorly hit deer.
     

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