Just picked up this old 45

[Armadillofz1]

No markings or serial number. Really not sure if its a copy or not. Patina on it looks fantastic. What is it?

 

[Armadillofz1]

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[Armadillofz1]

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[Armadillofz1]

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[Armadillofz1]

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[j8064]

Looks like an 1858 New Army replica of some brand.
Basically the same as a Remington model 1858:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remington_Model_1858

Cool piece.

(P.S. - If that's what it is, it's actually a .44...)

 

[Armadillofz1]

Looks like an 1858 New Army replica of some brand.
Cool piece.

(P.S. - If that's what it is, it's actually a .44...)

He gave me all his lead balls, they were all marked .451. Maybe they were for another pistol.

 

[j8064]

He gave me all his lead balls, they were all marked .451. Maybe they were for another pistol.

Nope, that's the correct size for many of those old BP .44's.

Looks like it's still in shoot-able shape. Make some white smoke with it...

 

[iH8DemLibz]

Going with "Antiqued" Armi San Marco replica.

 

[Armadillofz1]

Nope, that's the correct size for many of those old BP .44's.

Looks like it's still in shoot-able shape. Make some white smoke with it...

Excellent. He gave me about 300-400 balls and a couple of pounds of 4f. Also some grease and patches. Some of the nipples are misshapen from dry firing. I'll clean them up with a file. I think my rifle caps should work. I'll make some smoke this weekend.

 

[Armadillofz1]

Going with "Antiqued" Armi San Marco replica.

Odd that it has no stamps or marks at all.

 

[j8064]

Excellent. He gave me about 300-400 balls and a couple of pounds of 4f. Also some grease and patches. Some of the nipples are misshapen from dry firing. I'll clean them up with a file. I think my rifle caps should work. I'll make some smoke this weekend.

You could probably pick up some new nipples pretty cheap - (especially since you live in Free 'Merica now)

Sounds like you have plenty of powder and balls. #10 or #11 caps ought to work fine.

We definitely expect to see PICTURES!!!

 

[budman93]

Probably a replica. I don't think they made any remington types with brass frames originally.

 

[Threeband]

It's been "de-farbed" (modern markings removed).
.451 or even .454 balls should be fine. You don't use patches, except to clean it.
Grease over the balls to lube and seal is fine.
4f powder is very fine, normally used to prime flintlocks. 3f is standard for pistols. I guess a light load of 4f is okay: probably won't blow up the gun. But keep it light. Or get some 3f when you get the new nipples (and the nipple wrench).

 

[j8064]

It's been "de-farbed" (modern markings removed).
.451 or even .454 balls should be fine. You don't use patches, except to clean it.
Grease over the balls to lube and seal is fine.
4f powder is very fine, normally used to prime flintlocks. 3f is standard for pistols. I guess a light load of 4f is okay: probably won't blow up the gun. But keep it light. Or get some 3f when you get the new nipples (and the nipple wrench).

What Threeband said.
- As you seat the lead balls in the chambers it will shave a ring of lead (3% of course). That's part of the "boolit sizing" process for BP revolvers like this.
- It could be the former owner had the patches for cleaning, but you won't need/use them for loading the cylinder on a pistol. Bore Butter or some other type of grease on top of each loaded chamber minimizes the possibility of chain fires in revolvers.
- FFFg is usualy revolver powder. FFFFg is much more finely ground. Adjust your starting loads based on powder volume - not weight. And keep them on the light side like Threeband said.


Looks to me like a fun "white smoke" pistol. ...

 

[Threeband]

Did the former owner also have a flintlock rifle? That would explain the patches and 4f.

I used to use plain wheel bearing grease over the balls. First time out I tried straight crisco, but it quickly liquefied in the balmy Texas climate (not unlike Arizona). Immediately switched to wheel bearing grease, never looked back. You can use commercial stuff.

Consarned whippersnappers today use pre-lubed wads between the powder and ball, no grease on top. Never tried 'em. Hickock didn't use 'em, neither. Might be worth a try, though.

Do an advanced search for "loading stand" and "Threeband", and you'll find a bunch of bool shirt I posted mixed into some good threads on cap and ball revolvers.

 

[ted76]

I thought that I had read somewhere that the South may have made some copies with a brass frame. I have a repro that is a chrome plated brass frame, I would think that it would take a lot of buffing to get the markings out. There are probably a lot of fakes out there, I would have a couple of experts look at it before sellimg it cheap.

 

[Armadillofz1]

I thought that I had read somewhere that the South may have made some copies with a brass frame. I have a repro that is a chrome plated brass frame, I would think that it would take a lot of buffing to get the markings out. There are probably a lot of fakes out there, I would have a couple of experts look at it before sellimg it cheap.

Some of the patina does look quite advanced. Guy said he bought it used after coming home from vietnam in 73. So it's at least that old. Sold it to me for $50 so i figure its a repro.

 

[Threeband]

I don't think they were de-farbing in '73.

The more fanatical reenacters buff off all markings, or pay to have it done. The sneer at anything that's less than perfectly authentic as "Farb" or "farby", which is as bad as it gets. Worse than being a nazi...

If it's an original, the metric replacement nipples won't work. And where are the original markings? That patina does look authentic, though. Grips look newish. (And a bit farby? Quell horreur!)

 

[ted76]

Found this article on the web; http://www.civilwarhandgun.com/remington.htm