Humidity and temperature of reloading area

[Doobie]

I was just wondering what the ideal temp/humidity parameters are for an area where powder/primers are stored and reloading is being done. In my "room", the temp is pretty consistent between 59-68 degrees F. During the summer I run a dehumidifier which keeps the humidity between 50-60%. In the winter, I don't run the dehumidifier and the humidity is in the 40s% range.

 

[Vision]

Shouldn't be an issue. Have heard stories of people that have pulled out powder and primers that were in their garage for 10 years or more and everything still worked fine.

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[wt71]

Shouldn't be an issue. Have heard stories of people that have pulled out powder and primers that were in their garage for 10 years or more and everything still worked fine.

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Yep, that's a fact because that's how I do it....Been doing it for years in non heated garage with no problems.

 

[Doobie]

Thanks fellas. I read somewhere (forgive me I'm new to this an would rather ask stupid questions than to do something stupid),that the humidity may be to low, running the risk of static electricity/ discharge. That was my main concern. Thanks again

 

[j8064]

I just loaded some 38spl, 45 Colt and 7.5x55 Swiss in the garage where it's about 35 degrees inside and snowing outside. No issues.

Static is a bigger concern with black powder. If static builds up on equipment wiping things down with a dryer sheet will help.

 

[Uncle Duke]

Thanks fellas. I read somewhere (forgive me I'm new to this an would rather ask stupid questions than to do something stupid),that the humidity may be to low, running the risk of static electricity/ discharge. That was my main concern. Thanks again

Nothing stupid about your question!

In the production of powder, static electricity IS a concern! Modern powders as a finished product are treated with stabilizers however, and these stabilizers (along with product shape and size) effect burn rate and retard decomposition of the powder amongst other things. One of the stabilizing additives in modern powder is graphite.....my understanding is that it is used specifically as a hedge against static electricity in finished product.

Properly stored in your original containers, and in the temperature and humidity conditions you describe, you'll be just fine.

 

[Doobie]

While I'm thinking about it, after opening the container(s) of powder, should I just put the lid back on after use or place something (saran wrap or something) under the lid and then screw it back on as a barrier/seal against moisture/contamination? Thanks again for the help.

 

[Uncle Duke]

While I'm thinking about it, after opening the container(s) of powder, should I just put the lid back on after use or place something (saran wrap or something) under the lid and then screw it back on as a barrier/seal against moisture/contamination? Thanks again for the help.

Your lid will work fine. Notice that you'll have an insert inside that lid......white in color....that helps to keep moisture and contamination out of your product. No additional steps are necessary when using your factory supplied lid. What you do NOT want to do with either powder or primers is remove them from their original containers. That's bad practice. And don't leave powder in your measure for extended periods. It will etch the plastic in your measure amongst other concerns. Best practice is to finish your session, and put the powder back into it's original container immediately. Hope this helps!

 

[Doobie]

Your lid will work fine. Notice that you'll have an insert inside that lid......white in color....that helps to keep moisture and contamination out of your product. No additional steps are necessary when using your factory supplied lid. What you do NOT want to do with either powder or primers is remove them from their original containers. That's bad practice. And don't leave powder in your measure for extended periods. It will etch the plastic in your measure amongst other concerns. Best practice is to finish your session, and put the powder back into it's original container immediately. Hope this helps!

Thank you very much for the information and advice. I want to do everything the correct/safest way possible.

 

[j8064]

Thank you very much for the information and advice. I want to do everything the correct/safest way possible.

That's exactly the mindset you need in reloading! You will make mistakes. We all do. The key is leaving mistakes on the bench and not take them to the range.

The only stupid questions are the ones not asked.

 

[Shamr0ck]

Not to hijack the thread, but as long as we are asking ?s about safety and reloading....

I'm curious if the type of lighting should prefer one type over another (incandescent, halogen, fluorescent).

I am building my reloading space in a bedroom closet and need to add lighting. Better to ask and get the right type than make a mistake.

I haven't priced LED lighting yet, but that may be an option too

 

[Traveler]

LED is cheap and convenient these days. Less heat and longer life than even CFL.

 

[DaemonAssassin]

Not to hijack the thread, but as long as we are asking ?s about safety and reloading....

I'm curious if the type of lighting should prefer one type over another (incandescent, halogen, fluorescent).

I am building my reloading space in a bedroom closet and need to add lighting. Better to ask and get the right type than make a mistake.

I haven't priced LED lighting yet, but that may be an option too

I'm running a 2 or 4 bulb flourecent shop light and you've seen how bright that is. It might be an easy out for the area you will be in.

 

[Uncle Duke]

Not to hijack the thread, but as long as we are asking ?s about safety and reloading....

I'm curious if the type of lighting should prefer one type over another (incandescent, halogen, fluorescent).

I am building my reloading space in a bedroom closet and need to add lighting. Better to ask and get the right type than make a mistake.

I haven't priced LED lighting yet, but that may be an option too

That's a damned good question! I don't know what's best nowadays. I've seen plenty of halogen in commercial buildings, but I think that's as much usage cost related as anything else. Don't have any idea if there are larger LED fixtures that might make sense, or how available they are, or what they might cost. Maybe a good electrician will jump in on that. The light quality of LED flashlights though is pretty amazing.

I run a couple of banks of flourescent myself. For me, I don't think you can ever have too much light for detailed projects. I also keep a good flashlight on the bench that I use a good deal. Depending on what I'm loading and how, that light comes in handy at times for checking powder levels in cases and the inside of dies amongst any number of other things. Would be curious to know what other members are doing also.

 

[Doobie]

Not to hijack the thread, but as long as we are asking ?s about safety and reloading....

I'm curious if the type of lighting should prefer one type over another (incandescent, halogen, fluorescent).

I am building my reloading space in a bedroom closet and need to add lighting. Better to ask and get the right type than make a mistake.

I haven't priced LED lighting yet, but that may be an option too

Not hi jacking at all That's a great question and one I want answered as well. Anyone feel free to ask any question about reloading/safety on my thread(s)...you maybe asking a question that I haven't thought to ask.

 

[rico903]

Being new to this myself I'll ask another question. I have read some where that fluorescent lights can affect digital scales but it appears this is not correct?

 

[Pinecone]

Powder is treated for static. But if you equipment builds up a charge and sparks, you can set off powder.

But 40% RH is fine.

I use fluorescent lighting, but that is because me loading setup was made about 20 years ago.

Today I would put in LED. Bright, white, low energy cost, long life.

 

[John from MD]

+1 on the dryer sheets and removing the powder from the measure after use.

I keep a strip of dryer sheet on top of the powder in the measure captured by the measure cap. Some powders seem to be prone to static than others.

If you don't remove the powder from the measure, the powder will cause the plastic to get brittle and it will break easily. It must be some kind of chemical reaction. Dillon and RCBS will send replacement tubes for free.

It is also a good idea to use a silicone rag to wipe off your dies when you put them away. Salts from your hands will cause them to discolor and surface rust just like a firearm.

 

[Doobie]

Great info and advice Keep it coming

 

[byf43]

Great thread!!

My loading room/bench is in my woodworking shop, in the basement.

I've had a de-humidifier running in that shop 24/7/365 for the last 25 years.
This shop is a consistent 65-68° year-round.

Lighting is from two (2) 2-light flourescent fixtures, plus, I have one of those 'clamp on' lights with a CFL bulb in it, above my loading bench.

I've found that as I get older, I need more and more light (and my glasses get a little thicker, too!)