How to Clean surface rust off 1911

[Screwatts]

I pulled my 1918 1911 out of its case today and it was covered in surface rust. These pics are after I sprayed it with rem oil and scrubbed it good.

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[rj1974]

That is not a 1918 1911 . Frame may be but the slide definately is not . Ithaca only made them in the 40s and the were not blued .

 

[Screwatts]

I'm just going off the serial # and my great grandfather blued it. Being military surplus slides and frames often got switched

 

[rob-cubed]

Bummer. Get yourself some VCI's like this, which will stop rust even around humidity as long as you keep your guns in a mostly airtight space. And don't leave it in a case!
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/97...and-corrosion-inhibitor-plastab-package-of-10

The good news is cold blue is pretty good at covering surface rust if you do it right.

 

[Boom Boom]

Given the color and parts mismatch and sentimental family history, it's a perfect candidate to have professionally refinished. That is, a basic refinish, not a resto. If it were me, I would get it parkerized, as per original.

 

[Screwatts]

My great grandfather bought two of these for $5 each he blued this one and left the other alone

 

[Boom Boom]

On a side note, have you put many rounds down range through it? I can't tell if the slide and frame are original to each other because of the color mismatch. 1911 pistols generally need the slide fitted to the frame. Arbitrary mix and match is a sure recipe for headaches.

 

[On_Target]

Evapo rust. I buy it at Advance auto parts. It has brought some basket cases back without a trace of rust. This stuff is amazing.

 

[Screwatts]

Evapo rust. I buy it at Advance auto parts. It has brought some basket cases back without a trace of rust. This stuff is amazing.

Do you think it will hurt the blueing?

 

[Screwatts]

On a side note, have you put many rounds down range through it? I can't tell if the slide and frame are original to each other because of the color mismatch. 1911 pistols generally need the slide fitted to the frame. Arbitrary mix and match is a sure recipe for headaches.

Oh yeah , we've put lots and lots of rounds through it. Like 8'000

 

[Jimbob2.0]

Do you think it will hurt the blueing?

Before you start with the most agressive products, try the easy method first.

Disassemble the gun, soak everything in oil or CLP for an hour. Get some 0000 steel wool (brass if you can find it) and a bottle of a fairly viscous oil like hoppes and rub it gently and slowly.

I have brough stuff back way worse than that. You probably will have some areas without bluing or small pits but not bad.

Before you go refinishing it, figure out what you have first.

1. Its definately 40s, its an Ithaca contract.
2. The finish looks mismatched but that could be the photo
3. The grips look like Keyes fiber grips with reinforcement whcih would be correct for Ithaca. Are you sure its not a 1911A1? I cant see enough of the markings to tell.
4. Even if its a mismatch, I see an AA which might be Augusta Arsenal. Just because it was rearsenaled doesnt mean it was valueless, lots were, it wont have the same value as gun that hasnt been but still could be pretty valuable and a good reason not to go hog wild with refinishing.

 

[Screwatts]

Here's a couple more pics, oh and what is CLP

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[Jimbob2.0]

Here's a couple more pics, oh and what is CLP

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Seeing it now, definately wrong grips, they are commercial. The trigger looks 1918.

Just a good solvent/oil. One of the better ones on the market.

It looks like the gun may have been blued once already? If it was Augusta Arsenal it would have been parked.

That said it doesnt look too bad and should clean up, all wartime guns had a little speckling on the grip and backstrap if they were ever used at all.

 

[BradMacc82]

Before you start with the most agressive products, try the easy method first.

Disassemble the gun, soak everything in oil or CLP for an hour. Get some 0000 steel wool (brass if you can find it) and a bottle of a fairly viscous oil like hoppes and rub it gently and slowly.

I have brough stuff back way worse than that. You probably will have some areas without bluing or small pits but not bad.

^THIS!!

I've also had to bring some back from 'not-so-good' places, and this method is definitely a great starting point.

 

[Screwatts]

My dad says he remembers seeing my great great father cooking this gun in oven and doing something with oil. My great grandfather really liked doing thing to his guns himself. You should see the stock he hand carved for his bull berrelled .244 . The other one he purchased at the same time is parkerized

 

[hairba111]

That frame is definitely 1918, the rest is arsenal A1 mix and match down to the spring housing. My 1918 M1911 is at http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=5197&highlight=1911+Porn&page=38. All parts match.

 

[NickZac]

Some of the ammonia-based cleaners such as Blue Wonder will quickly remove surface oxidation. However, if the rust is deep/pitting, it's a little more involved. It's worth noting that most of the ammonia-bases seem to not have any protecting in them, and so finishing with a coat of something that acts as a protectant is a must.

 

[Marauder]

Try some Flitz, just yesterday I cleaned up some rusty tools that have a black-oxide finish. Flitz took the rust off and the black oxide finish was okay. I have tried this on blued guns to, it works.

 

[Ab_Normal]

Before you start with the most agressive products, try the easy method first.

Disassemble the gun, soak everything in oil or CLP for an hour. Get some 0000 steel wool (brass if you can find it) and a bottle of a fairly viscous oil like hoppes and rub it gently and slowly.

I have brough stuff back way worse than that. You probably will have some areas without bluing or small pits but not bad.

This.

But brass wool can be hard to find. I found the copper scouring pads at the grocery store work very well. But be careful I think they may only be copper coated.

 

[HT4]

Another second for a light 0000 steel wool cleaning. I use it with motor oil to remove rust. I've had good results with this approach on surface-rusted guns.