Glock problems

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  • usawcraig

    Gunbroke
    May 8, 2015
    57
    Middle River
    Just purchased a Glock 30S. So far I've put on a double diamond connector, a titanium safety plunger, a stainless steel guide rod and recoil spring, and a viridian C5L, and Trujicon HD's. Today the pistol failed to return to battery by millimeters repeatedly (almost every time fired) along with multiple light primary strikes. Any ideas?
     

    alucard0822

    For great Justice
    Oct 29, 2007
    17,745
    PA
    Just purchased a Glock 30S. So far I've put on a double diamond connector, a titanium safety plunger, a stainless steel guide rod and recoil spring, and a viridian C5L, and Trujicon HD's. Today the pistol failed to return to battery by millimeters repeatedly (almost every time fired) along with multiple light primary strikes. Any ideas?

    put the factory connector, guide rod and safety plunger back in and try it again, factory springs? usually a light recoil spring or binding guide rod are the culprit for out of battery, but an out of spec connector can bind it up too. Light strikes can come from light striker springs, or easily from the striker hitting an out of spec safety button, or released early from an out of spec connector. In either case you don't want to mess with firing a possible out of battery condition
     

    usawcraig

    Gunbroke
    May 8, 2015
    57
    Middle River
    Definitely feels like a binding guide rod. In fact there appear to be marks scratched into the stainless already. I'm hoping it's an easy fix that'll still allow for the trigger pull with connector and plunger.
     

    alucard0822

    For great Justice
    Oct 29, 2007
    17,745
    PA
    Definitely feels like a binding guide rod. In fact there appear to be marks scratched into the stainless already. I'm hoping it's an easy fix that'll still allow for the trigger pull with connector and plunger.

    I've "fixed" more than a few failures from springs that were cut wrong, or aftermarket guiderods that were rough or out of spec. If you plan on sticking to "factory" load velocities for the caliber, then the factory rod is best, they are cheap, light, don't bind, and have enough clearance to shed dirt and sand that could jam a metal rod. I do run aftermarket rods and heavier springs in my G20 and G30, only because I run full power 10 and 45super, and don't use them for defense, the factory springs are a little light for that kind of abuse and heavier springs smooths them out and doesn't launch brass as far. Be sure to check the ends of the spring, when they are cut to length sometimes it's jagged or bent and will cause trouble. Haven't had a problem with Wolff or ISMI myself other than ISMI running slightly under spec. For most they are a waste of money and annoying while fieldstripping the pistol compared to the captured stock spring.

    Make sure the connector is tensioned right, is polished and greased on the mating surfaces and doesn't have burrs, a bad connector can break or jam at best, and mag dump in FA at worst, there are enough GLOCK factory connector angles, that I usually just polish one up and get the same or better results than an aftermarket part. The Ti plunger could cause problems, over time the soft metal can gall, and it's only 1 side of a gritty mating surface, stoning, polishing/and deburring the bar slicks it up more even with a stock plunger(replacing with a smooth face G21 trigger is nice too), you can turn the stock plunger in a drill against very fine sandpaper and polish to smooth and polish the surface and keep the proper shape, and it will beat any aftermarket plunger.
     

    redeemed.man

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 29, 2013
    17,444
    HoCo
    Just purchased a Glock 30S. So far I've put on a double diamond connector, a titanium safety plunger, a stainless steel guide rod and recoil spring, and a viridian C5L, and Trujicon HD's. Today the pistol failed to return to battery by millimeters repeatedly (almost every time fired) along with multiple light primary strikes. Any ideas?
    Put all the original parts back in. Problem solved. The 30s is an excellent pistol out of the box.
     

    usawcraig

    Gunbroke
    May 8, 2015
    57
    Middle River
    Truthfully I had fired it, but just knowing that Glock had such a strong aftermarket I just wanted to soften the trigger and any possible means of smoothing the action. Not really sure I should be ashamed of trying to improve upon an already proven pistol but all my firearms are modified somewhat without problems.
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    33,469
    Even if you think you will want to install ( latest interney legend trick parts) eventually, always function test, if not break in ( whatever that means to you) first in box stock condition first. Any issues at that point have corrected.

    THEN, change only one thing at a time, and test for reliability before proveeding. Not 100% foolproof due to potential tolerence stacking with cumulative modifications, but a good start.
     

    usawcraig

    Gunbroke
    May 8, 2015
    57
    Middle River
    Alrighty my Glock is now returned to it's stock configuration (minus the sights and extended magazine release which I see will in no way affect the guns cycling). Tomorrow I'll post the results. Hopefully I'll have learned a lesson and chalk it up to inexperience. In that case thanks for all the input.
     

    Indiana Jones

    Wolverine
    Mar 18, 2011
    19,480
    CCN
    Same thing happens when people try to turn a Honda Civic into a race car. Glocks are pretty decent unmessed with. If you want a better pistol, upgrade to a Sig or Hk. Buy once, cry once. No use putting farcans on a Honda when there is a dealership selling Cobras and Vettes down the street.
     

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