COMPLETE Reloading Setup

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  • boardboy330

    Resident Secret Squirrel
    Mar 18, 2008
    12,630
    I will start by saying I have taken the last year to research and understand what I need to do. I have the Lyman book and have read it cover to cover. Very boring :P I also researched equipment and chose the Hornady LnL AP.

    I will be loading .40SW, .45, .223, and .50BMG. If I can find dies...I will load 5.7 as well :D

    I was going to "learn" on a single stage but my learning curve with anything is so short I think it would be a waste of money. I might be wrong and could be convinced otherwise.

    Basically what I need is a complete list of tools to buy for this endeavor. I will start out with just pistol rounds, then move to rifle once I have pistols down.

    So far, my list is (I have books already):

    Hornady LnL AP
    Beam Scale
    Tumbler


    What else should I buy?
     

    boardboy330

    Resident Secret Squirrel
    Mar 18, 2008
    12,630
    Not going to be able to use the LNL AP to load .50BMG, case is too tall.

    Yes, I know. One of the reasons I said I wanted to start with pistol and move on. I have been shooting more pistol and want the AP to rock out those between trips. The (precision) .223 and .50BMG will get a separate press for themselves. But I would like to knock out target .223 if I want.

    I am also building a bench to mount this setup to. Should be sub $50
     

    RipkinC

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 2, 2007
    1,220
    Free America
    Yup, a 50bmg is a whole separate press for it, 338alp etc. all super long/tall rounds like that.
    What kind of volume do you want, A dillon 550 might be a good option, it will do 223, but is about 2-300 rnds/hr Its a good compromise between single stage and progressive since you have to manually advance it
    If you want cheep I like my lee loadmasters (got 2) I havn't done 223 on them yet but here they do ok with it. all my pistol stuff so far has been great and the price is right.
    Honestly If I move up it will only be to a dillon 650 or 1050, everything else just ends up being a compromise and really not that much cheaper.

    Edit: I misread your OP
    additional equipment...
    RCBS makes a good beam scale, but I only use mine as an ocasional checker to my digital one
    Any mid range tumbler will be fine, The Cabelas, Mid-south, franklin arsnal etc are all extremely similar with color being the only real difference. all about $50 and they work well for a long time if you dont plan on tumbling 10lb of brass 24-7. If you want a big one the big dillon is very nice but $$$ smart reloader has a big one, not too many bad reviews of it, mostly of their other stuff and the price is right.
    Dont forget case lube, I like Hornady one shot, many like dillons, and you can make yours (there is a thread here somewhere on it)
    good media separator (A cheep colander form wally-world works) Media (i like corn cob, many like walnut) I add "NuFinish" car polish to mine and brass looks new on the outside, not too bad on the inside.
    a good place to reload, little bins for parts, finished cartridges and unfinished cases, bullets etc.
    I like to hand-prime, feel its safer and gives me a way to break up the stages (clean, de-prime, re prime, than load)
     

    Bang

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 3, 2008
    1,113
    Baltimore Co.
    So just going through this exercise myself your going to need the appropriate shell plates for each caliber you want to load along with the die sets. If you want to do fast caliber swaps you will need additional bushings so you can leave everything set and pop out the bushings with the dies in them. Primer flipper to orient the primers correctly so you can load the primer tubes. Bullet puller because mistakes will be made. For rifle cases you will want a case trimmer and the shell holders for that. Micrometer to measure round dimensions. There is a bunch.

    I am sure one of the more experienced loaders will come along and will add or subtract.

    As of right now I just have a pile of stuff still in my basement so everything I mentioned I bought based off research. I just need to decide on a stupid bench.
     

    MDMOUNTAINEER

    Glock, AR, Savage Junkie
    Mar 4, 2009
    5,739
    West Virginia
    Digital Scale (makes life easier) but your beam scale is a must have as well.
    Powder funnel
    Case Lube (I like the Lee paste)
    Hand priming tool (I'm sure the LNL AP has a priming feature already, but a hand primer is my preferred method)
    Case prep kit (I prefer lyman) and they have an all-in-one deal http://www.opticsplanet.com/lyman-c...n8A9Q&ef_id=madPDTm6g1oAAAcb:20121102051354:s

    reloading trays in the calibers you are reloading for.
    primers
    bullets
    powder
    dies (lee handgun dies are fine IMHO and they come with a shellholder) I like redding or lyman for rifle dies.
    calipers (buy two, one digital and one analog) It's always good to have a backup to check your work.
    powder trickler (for your precision loads)
    Some type of case trimming tool. The lee trimmers/case length gauges work fine.
    Steel wool to polish your brass by hand when you trim

    I'm anal about most things, but nothing more than reloading. I will probably never use a progressive press because I need to be anal with every step of the reloading process.

    You can buy a breech lock challenger reloading kit that has a lot of this stuff already and it usually runs about $100 bucks. Plus you'll have the ability to really focus on your precision rounds. The other beauty of the challenger is that it's a light press and you can mount it to a piece of 1" plywood and use c-clamps to turn it into a portable press. I have a bench with a rockchucker mounted to it. A challenger as a backup and portable press. And I typically use a lee hand press to process straight wall pistol brass (namely .38spc and .357) as well as seat bullets on both rifle and pistol rounds and exclusively to crimp.

    Varget is a good .223 powder and I'm a fan of titegroup for most pistol rounds. I don't have a .50 so I couldn't begin to tell you where to start there. You'll probably have to measure that powder with a coffee mug.
     

    K31

    "Part of that Ultra MAGA Crowd"
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 15, 2006
    35,714
    AA county
    I was going to "learn" on a single stage but my learning curve with anything is so short I think it would be a waste of money. I might be wrong and could be convinced otherwise.

    Since you say you're going to eventually load .50 BMG you are going to need a press for it, so why not get a tall single stage press now and learn on it?

    Basically what I need is a complete list of tools to buy for this endeavor. I will start out with just pistol rounds, then move to rifle once I have pistols down.

    So far, my list is (I have books already):

    Hornady LnL AP
    Beam Scale
    Tumbler

    Calipers - must have
    Safety glasses - must have
    Logbook
    Cleaning media - such as corn husk.
    Polish - I recommend the Franklin Armory
    Case Lube - Get Dillon's or other Lanolin-based spray type, others suck
    Dies - get carbide for the pistol and other straight walled cases
    Shell holders - if they don't come with the dies
    Loading blocks - as mentioned, get appropriate size for each caliber, the all-in-one ones suck
    Case trimmer
    Case chamfering/deburring tool
    Plastic ammo boxes - store your loads
    Labels for boxes - a cheap $20 labeler from Amazon is a good thing to have
    Media Separator - if your tumbler doesn't sift the media, I recommend the RCBS one because it's all enclosed and won't spread potentially lead-bearing dust around
    Bullet puller - get the collet type. Inertial ones are ok for one or two mistakes but eventually you are going to take apart a box worth
    Sharpies - get a colored assortment http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=38427
    Primer pocket cleaning tool
    Logbook
     

    boardboy330

    Resident Secret Squirrel
    Mar 18, 2008
    12,630
    Since you say you're going to eventually load .50 BMG you are going to need a press for it, so why not get a tall single stage press now and learn on it?

    I was shown and worked in another shop. I didn't do the entire process, just measuring the bullets, powder, and case. Then loading in a single normal press. It was completely manual as it was precision loading. Right now I want to focus on cranking out pistol and possible rifle rounds. I am more concerned with getting my cache a little larger. Once I hit my magic number, I want to move on. Hopefully that makes sense.

    Calipers - must have
    Safety glasses - must have
    Logbook
    Cleaning media - such as corn husk.
    Polish - I recommend the Franklin Armory
    Case Lube - Get Dillon's or other Lanolin-based spray type, others suck
    Dies - get carbide for the pistol and other straight walled cases
    Shell holders - if they don't come with the dies
    Loading blocks - as mentioned, get appropriate size for each caliber, the all-in-one ones suck
    Case trimmer
    Case chamfering/deburring tool
    Plastic ammo boxes - store your loads
    Labels for boxes - a cheap $20 labeler from Amazon is a good thing to have

    Media Separator - if your tumbler doesn't sift the media, I recommend the RCBS one because it's all enclosed and won't spread potentially lead-bearing dust around
    Bullet puller - get the collet type. Inertial ones are ok for one or two mistakes but eventually you are going to take apart a box worth
    Sharpies - get a colored assortment http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=38427
    Primer pocket cleaning tool
    Logbook

    Plastic ammo boxes meaning for directly after loading? I was planning to reload and put them into metal ammo containers. Not a good idea?

    Label maker...I have a VERY nice label maker (Brother QL570) that I can use. I bought a new roll of waterproof labels for this project.

    Got the sharpies as well already.



    As for all the other advice, I am going to re-read the Lyman manual as I seem to have forgotten quite a bit. I will be updating my list. I just want to shop once and get everything setup at the same time. Thank you to everyone. I will read through and update shortly.
     

    K31

    "Part of that Ultra MAGA Crowd"
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 15, 2006
    35,714
    AA county
    Plastic ammo boxes meaning for directly after loading? I was planning to reload and put them into metal ammo containers. Not a good idea?

    When you're working up a load, you're going to want to keep all of the same charges together. While you could mark them and throw them all in an undivided box, it may be a PITA to pull them out by charge weight.

    Also, if you're not going to crimp or if you are going for high accuracy, I would buy plastic boxes.
     
    Last edited:

    Rockzilla

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 6, 2010
    4,597
    55.751244 / 37.618423
    Here are some spreadsheets to help figure cost, some even print box labels and other things
    as it appears just about everything is / has been covered above

    This one is in the older Excel .xls format
    View attachment reloading costs-payback-labels.xls

    This one is in newer format .xlsx
    has more tabs and more things
    View attachment Reloading Cost-Labels-Barrel count.xlsx

    hope these come in handy, there are multiple tabs on both. these are not my
    creations, but other members elsewhere. I have others.

    also some nfo here in the reloading thread first 8 topics may be of interest
    http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=13&page=1

    or build your own case tumbler using stainless steel media
    http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/344986_How_i_built_my_own_rotary_tumbler.html
    it's 18 pages long and towards the last few pages, he is using 6" pipe..
    haven't tried it yet, getting everything together.

    -Rock
     

    boardboy330

    Resident Secret Squirrel
    Mar 18, 2008
    12,630
    When you're working up a load, you're going to want to keep all of the same charges together. While you could mark them and throw them all in an undivided box, it may be a PITA to pull them out by charge weight.

    I figured a few plastic boxes would be sufficient to find the best load for my pistols. Ill get a few more just in case. Then once I find my best loads - I was going to go full throttle and fill .50 cal ammo cans. Sorry, thought you meant I should store all reload ammo in those boxes. That would get real expensive real quick lol.


    Thanks Rockzilla :thumbsup:
     

    Baumer

    Active Member
    Jan 21, 2010
    265
    For an LNL pistol setup I recommend you go here http://www.powderfunnels.com and purchase the Powder through Expander (PTX). This will effectively add an extra station to the press because you'll be flaring and dropping powder at stage 2. Then buy a powder cop die (or other variety of powder check die) and put that at stage 3. Stage 4 will be your seating die and stage 5 will be your crimp die.

    I like the Redding Pro Series dies. These sets are made for a progressive press and they come with the crimp die and without the expander (which you wont need if you get the PTX above). They cost more but buy once cry once IMO.

    There have been some sporadic reports of priming problems with winchester primers on the LNL so maybe opt for a different brand to start.

    Forgot to mention - Make sure you have/get the pistol rotor and metering insert for throwing the small charges necessary for pistol calibers. I've also found it helpful to buy a couple extra metering inserts and just leave them set for your pet load. Saves time on readjusting after a caliber conversion.
     
    Last edited:

    boardboy330

    Resident Secret Squirrel
    Mar 18, 2008
    12,630
    For an LNL pistol setup I recommend you go here http://www.powderfunnels.com and purchase the Powder through Expander (PTX). This will effectively add an extra station to the press because you'll be flaring and dropping powder at stage 2. Then buy a powder cop die (or other variety of powder check die) and put that at stage 3. Stage 4 will be your seating die and stage 5 will be your crimp die.

    I like the Redding Pro Series dies. These sets are made for a progressive press and they come with the crimp die and without the expander (which you wont need if you get the PTX above). They cost more but buy once cry once IMO.

    There have been some sporadic reports of priming problems with winchester primers on the LNL so maybe opt for a different brand to start.

    Forgot to mention - Make sure you have/get the pistol rotor and metering insert for throwing the small charges necessary for pistol calibers. I've also found it helpful to buy a couple extra metering inserts and just leave them set for your pet load. Saves time on readjusting after a caliber conversion.

    AWESOME. I was hoping someone would give details on this lol. I will def check out those tools.
     

    Flipz

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 11, 2010
    3,193
    For an LNL pistol setup I recommend you go here http://www.powderfunnels.com and purchase the Powder through Expander (PTX). This will effectively add an extra station to the press because you'll be flaring and dropping powder at stage 2. Then buy a powder cop die (or other variety of powder check die) and put that at stage 3. Stage 4 will be your seating die and stage 5 will be your crimp die.

    I use this setup on my LnL. I use an RCBS LockOut die for my powder check in station 3. The setup works flawlessly. I have one of the PowderFunnels.com Universal PTX Expanders but I choose to use Hornady's PTX die instead.

    There have been some sporadic reports of priming problems with winchester primers on the LNL so maybe opt for a different brand to start.

    I have had no issues with either CCI or Winchester primers (small & large) in thousands of rounds. Both are good to go. Atleast in my LnL they are.

    Forgot to mention - Make sure you have/get the pistol rotor and metering insert for throwing the small charges necessary for pistol calibers. I've also found it helpful to buy a couple extra metering inserts and just leave them set for your pet load. Saves time on readjusting after a caliber conversion.

    I also use multiple meters and keep them set for their respective loads. It makes caliber conversions very quick and easy.
    Boardboy330,
    You'll be very happy with the LnL. I've been loading 9mm and 45acp for a few years now on mine. It's a great press.

    Oh, and as far as dies. I use the Hornady dies. They work great.
     

    boardboy330

    Resident Secret Squirrel
    Mar 18, 2008
    12,630
    Here's another site with some optional LNL accessories. I have the Ergo handle on mine and it's a big step up over the original ball, particularly if you plan on long reloading sessions.

    http://www.inlinefabrication.com/ERGO_Roller.html

    Awesome. I think I will be adding the combo kit and just be done with it. I don't want to worry about having enough light in the room to reload.

    The LnL is on sale at Amazon for $400 shipped (with Prime) right now.
     

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