Best Sharpener?

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  • Dino

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 21, 2006
    1,006
    Beltsville, Md.
    I recently bought a spring assisted Kershaw "Leek".
    Awesome piece. :)

    It get's a lot of use at work and I'd like to sharpen it.
    What do you guys suggest?
     

    kalister1

    R.I.P.
    May 16, 2008
    4,814
    Pasadena Maryland

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    alucard0822

    For great Justice
    Oct 29, 2007
    17,746
    PA
    http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=142502

    Basically IMO the edge pro type sharpener and leather strop on a power belt is the best method, fast, trouble free, easiest to learn, and gets the best results. The spyderco sharpmaker is loved by many also, but I just don't get as precise results as an angled jig system like Lansky or Edge pro. You can sharpen on a belt alone, fastest method there is with good results, but it takes a lot of skill, can round corners and tips, a convex edge doesn't work for every knife, and there is little margin for error.
     

    cb51

    Active Member
    A plain old Norton economy stone from Home Depot or Lowes will put a shaving edge on your knife in a few minutes with some practice. Follow up on the back of a belt and you're good to go. Knife sharpening is one of those things that they over complicate to confuse you into thinking that more is involved than really is. No rocket science, except for the gadgets they desingn not so much to shapenyour knife, but to get the money out of your pocket and into theirs.

    Keep it simple, and you can sharpen anywhere at any time.
    14211539277_6e5e6c318e_c.jpg


    A small Eze-Lap model L diamond hone fits in the wallet if you cut off most of the plastic handle. Puts a very nice cutting edge on a blade.
    14340214690_20437aa481_c.jpg


    The bottom unglazed ring on a coffee mug also works very well. Google on YOutube "Instinctive knife sharpening" and watch the guy in the gray flat cap. Very informative.

    Or, you buy lunch and give me 20 minutes with you, and I'll teach you to sharpen anywhere.
     

    Sharadeth

    Active Member
    Oct 11, 2011
    118
    Hmmmmm. Thats a bit of hard question to answer for me. It really depends on what you plan to sharpen and your willingness to learn a system. Many will point out system such as the syperco or the edge apex pro. They work great for what they are and require minimum skill to use (they still require some technique, don't get me wrong). The problem with them for me is that they are a little but limited in use. I shave with a straight razor on occasion and they cannot be used for honing my razor. For that I'm much better off with a good size waterstone set of various grits and a strop. And thats just what I use. With enough dedication you can also sharpen other knives just fine with waterstones, but again it does require skill on your part. I'm also not limited by the grits a certain company provides or a set size ir bevel of a knife. I can even sharpen a full 30+" longsword with them.

    As far as specifics go I do like the king 800/4000 grit combo stone. Under $30, a good size, and covers medium grit and a fine enough grit to get a decent reflection on the edge. To really get a killer edge throw in a $30 Chinese water stone and get a mirror finish. This really does take time to master though and may not be for you, but it is a good way to go if you want to throw in another hobby :D
     

    Yellowhand

    Active Member
    Jan 19, 2014
    443
    Eastern Shore
    I still get the best results from old fashioned whet stones in different coarseness from coarse to fine and strop it on a stiff leather belt. The stones need to be scrubbed between uses with a green 3M pad and a little dish soap to remove the buildup of metal and carbon and then rinsed well. I don't use oil, just water...works for me.
     

    Mark75H

    MD Wear&Carry Instructor
    Industry Partner
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 25, 2011
    17,335
    Outside the Gates
    another +1 on the Sharpmaker

    I have used whet stones going on 50 years ... I was lucky enough to have good teachers for sharpening. If you don't have a coach who can show you what you are doing wrong once in a while, the Sharpmaker is a better tool than a stone

    My advice is to buy a Sharpmaker now, learn how to use it and how often - and later if you are still interested in more technique - buy a good whet stone or diamond dust imbedded sharpening block later
     

    Nimrod

    "NOT DISAPPROVED"
    Mar 22, 2011
    44
    Montgomery County
    For sharpening at home, Lansky-type sharpeners work really well. For sharpening in the field, a fine ceramic rod or ceramic 'V' sharpener works great. The Smith's Pocket Pal works well enough and it's easy to keep with you. It has both ceramic and carbide. I don't recommend using carbide sharpeners on knives. Hatchets, machetes, and scissors, yes, but no carbide on knives unless you need to tear down a complete new edge in the field. The best way to keep a good edge on your knife is to never let it get too dull. The moment it starts taking more effort to cut, you need to stop and sharpen the blade. It's easier to maintain a sharp edge by touching it up after every use than it is to completely sharpen you knife every time it gets really dull.
     

    TonyB.

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 27, 2012
    1,214
    I like the Lansky Pro at home. Nothing fancy but effective.

    If you've got $$$$ the EdgePro Apex looks pimp.

    I carry an EzeLap like pictured above for quickie touch-ups. One in my wallet and one in a GHB and BOB.
     

    alucard0822

    For great Justice
    Oct 29, 2007
    17,746
    PA
    I use a $25 Ebay Edge pro with congress Silicon carbide stones on backings I made from 1/8" flat aluminum stock, can get a decent set put together for about $50. Not quite as easy to use as a Lansky, but much faster, endless variety of stones, more precise angle holding, works better on larger knives. I sharpen up to 600 grit, then strop on a leather belt loaded with green compound on a 1x30 belt sander. I used to sharpen knives with trizact belts on the power sander too, it was much harder to control angle, less precise and took more metal off. Wasn't all bad though, it was MUCH faster than any other method, produced a polished convex edge that lasts a long time, and works well in some applications, and it produced a razor sharp edge easier IMO than bench stones. Now I only sharpen big stuff, swords, tools, axes etc on the sander, knives on the Edge Faux.

    I sharpen a knife to an appropriate relief bevel, usually 30-45 degrees inclusive, then bump the angle up a couple degrees and only do a couple passes with a 600grit stone on each side to clean up the burr and create a "micro-edge" edge bevel, then strop on the sander with a leather belt/compound for a couple minutes to shape and thin the burr to get the best edge. Once it takes a bit more pressure to cut, I just strop again to straighten out the edge, brings the edge back a few times, and only takes a minute or two. Once it doesn't bring the edge back as well, or if there are nicks or rolls stropping won't bring out, then I match the slightly steeper micro edge angle on the edge faux leaving the broad relief angle alone,. You are only sharpening a small area, so only takes a couple passes, then it can be stropped again, this also. Each time this is done, the edge bevel gets larger, and takes up a larger portion of the relief bevel, once it gets around 1/2 of the total relief/edge bevel width, I start over, resharpening the relief angle and micro-edge. This keeps good knives sharp all the time, and makes them last the longest as little or no metal is takes off for months or years between full sharpening, and the angles are so precise very little metal is taken off to get back to a perfect edge.

    lots more info in this thread:
    http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=142502

    edge faux.jpg
     
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