Best BCG for Suppressor use?

[sleev-les]

I noticed that if mine had too much gas, the hammer would lock back and I would have to tap the side of the rifle to get it to seat correctly on some shots. Once I got it to a good spot, it ran flawlessly. Too much gas was the hammer giving me issues, not enough it wouldn't eject the case so I got it right in the middle with no issue. I am still novice in regards to this stuff so Im hoping overgassing was my only issue with the hammer locking back too far (if that makes sense)

 

[clandestine]

I noticed that if mine had too much gas, the hammer would lock back and I would have to tap the side of the rifle to get it to seat correctly on some shots. Once I got it to a good spot, it ran flawlessly. Too much gas was the hammer giving me issues, not enough it wouldn't eject the case so I got it right in the middle with no issue. I am still novice in regards to this stuff so Im hoping overgassing was my only issue with the hammer locking back too far (if that makes sense)

Sounds like something in the FCG is wrong. If overgassed the hammer can slap the disconnect or and cause peening which can lead to the disconnect or not releasing. I'm likely not grasping your malfunction fully.

 

[sleev-les]

It is hard to explain, but when I fired a shot, the bolt would do its thing and reset the hammer, but the hammer seemed to over travel and seize to where you would pull the trigger and it wouldn't release. If i tapped the side of the rifle on the side, the hammer would slide a bit (you could hear a click) forward and lock into its proper position.

 

[clandestine]

It is hard to explain, but when I fired a shot, the bolt would do its thing and reset the hammer, but the hammer seemed to over travel and seize to where you would pull the trigger and it wouldn't release. If i tapped the side of the rifle on the side, the hammer would slide a bit (you could hear a click) forward and lock into its proper position.

Sounds like a broken hammer or trigger pin, binding disconnector, or the disconnector needs some tuning. Even Geissele Triggers need the disconnector tweaked to release correctly.

Taken the fcg out and see if your pins are broken, if they are not remove the trigger and hammer springs and install then trigger by itself ,(no trigger spring and no disconnector,) in the lower and install the pin and move it forward and back. There should be no binding.

Now remove the trigger and install the hammer in the same manner and move it forward and back. There should be no binding.

Now reassemble the fcg and retest by cocking the hammer manually while keeping the trigger pulled. Release the trigger really slow. If the disconnector does not release the hammer then you have a bad disconnector or some fitting is in order.

 

[sleev-les]

Your last sentence describes exactly something I tried and sounds like what Im experiencing. I'm using a Wilson single stage trigger (just for informations sake). When I manually cocked the hammer with the trigger pulled then would release the tigger and it would sometimes stay binded. Other times it wouldn't. it is intermittent. I just added my comments to this thread since I noticed it once suppressed and was fine before. Maybe coincidence..

 

[OrbitalEllipses]

Your disco is borked.

 

[clandestine]

Yup. The disconnector needs adjustment or something is wrong.

I see Wilsons, Timney, and CMC triggers all of the time for issues like this. It needs service.

 

[sleev-les]

Could I drop the trigger assembly off at the shop for you to work your magic? Or the lower if you need the entire setup?

 

[clandestine]

Could I drop the trigger assembly off at the shop for you to work your magic? Or the lower if you need the entire setup?

I'm not able to accept work yet. If you are not in a time crunch and can hold off I'll gladly work on it when I'm able to get to it in a timely fashion.

 

[sleev-les]

I'm not able to accept work yet. If you are not in a time crunch and can hold off I'll gladly work on it when I'm able to get to it in a timely fashion.

I'm def in no rush. I don't have any range plans in the immediate future and if any came up, I have plenty of other guns to bring haha..

 

[bobthefisher]

I also had a Wilson combat trigger that suddenly wouldn't engage the disconnector fully, or would drop the hammer when the trigger was released.

The exact trigger I'm referring to had been used on thousands of rounds, being taking out of, and put back in other rifles numerous times. However, on the last occurrence of installing it into a rifle, it had the issues described above. I sent it back to Wilson with a simplistic letter of what was happening, and got a brand new trigger back within a couple weeks.

Had another trigger from POF do the same thing. Also returned and replaced with a new one.

It seems these box / drop-in triggers have such tight tolerances, that a LOT of wear and tear can lead to breakage.

 

[clandestine]

I also had a Wilson combat trigger that suddenly wouldn't engage the disconnector fully, or would drop the hammer when the trigger was released.

The exact trigger I'm referring to had been used on thousands of rounds, being taking out of, and put back in other rifles numerous times. However, on the last occurrence of installing it into a rifle, it had the issues described above. I sent it back to Wilson with a simplistic letter of what was happening, and got a brand new trigger back within a couple weeks.

Had another trigger from POF do the same thing. Also returned and replaced with a new one.

It seems these box / drop-in triggers have such tight tolerances, that a LOT of wear and tear can lead to breakage.

I have found box triggers are less than dependable. Some here on MDS get really angry me relaying my experiences. My time working on ARs has shown me its a stock FCG or a nonadjustable 2 Stage Geiselle. Nothing else.

 

[bobthefisher]

I have found box triggers are less than dependable. Some here on MDS get really angry me relaying my experiences. My time working on ARs has shown me its a stock FCG or a nonadjustable 2 Stage Geiselle. Nothing else.

I would tend to agree. It seems that box triggers inherently have tighter tolerances, thus can have a higher failure rate. Proof of concept is the AK. Generally speaking, lower tolerances equal greater dependability.

This concept has always made me wonder how to improve the reliability of the AR platform. In my observation its not the gas system that kills the AR, its the actual FCG. Therefore, if the FCG was somehow designed with lower tolerances, would it make the platform run more reliable? Would an AK style spring (bigger strand spring and greater tension) equate to a more reliable AR?

Just some questions rattling inside my head.

 

[rayrevolver]

Sionics NP3 BCGs are still on sale at the Christmas price. I think a normal BCG is fine, but did buy this NP3 BCG at the sale price for an upcoming build.

http://sionicsweaponsystems.com/store/product.php?id_product=130

 

[outrider58]

Sionics NP3 BCGs are still on sale at the Christmas price. I think a normal BCG is fine, but did buy this NP3 BCG at the sale price for an upcoming build.

http://sionicsweaponsystems.com/store/product.php?id_product=130

That looks nice but, I'm gonna start out with one of my standard full mass BCGs til something goes wrong.

 

[amoebicmagician]

a heavy one works best in overgassed or suppressed systems- it makes a difference.

M-16 bcgs work well, and there are custom heavier ones