Berretta 92fs help

[CLIFF566]

THE BERETTA SB M9 WAS THE MOST RESEARCHED AND TEST FIRED PISTOL THAT THE MILITARY EVER USED , THE PISTOL WORKED JUST GREAT, THEN WE USED IMI AMMO AS DIRECTED THEN WE HAD SLIDE PROBLEMS, NO IMI NO SIDE PROBLEMS. THEN OF COURCE BECAUSE OF THE SAFTYS, THAT KILLED THE MARKERT FOR A WHILE
CLIFF

 

[notguilty]

police trade-in

here is my 92-fs from the cop-shop.I refinished it with Moly-Resin,now we'll see if it is durable.Before

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[Merlin]

here is my 92-fs from the cop-shop.I refinished it with Moly-Resin,now we'll see if it is durable.Before

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Looks great, like a new gun. How do you like your grips? I just got one that has the stock grips that I just shot for the first time yesterday.

 

[notguilty]

i like the handle of them , they are just a little too thick.i am working on my grip to see if I can keep these but I think I am going to end up with something else.recoil makes the gun move in my grip.maybe smaller grips will help me hold on ?

 

[Tconfo]

What did you do to refinish it ? I know the moly resin. But I'm a noob to this where do I get it? How does it work?

 

[notguilty]

http://www.molyresin.com/default.asp
The instructions are pretty clear , I didn't have to figure much out on my own.I bought an airbrush from Yorktowne Hobby in Timonium $40.00.The MolyResin was $30.00 free shipping.Fieldstrip and remove grips.i used acetone to remove any oil from surface and # 400 grit sandpaper to prep.You don't have to remove previous finish just buff it up ,remove light scratches and such.I took 1 oven rack and set it across the top of a card board box,and cut the front of the box out.then using coat hangers i could suspend the slide, barrel and frame to airbrush them.The other oven rack I moved to the topmost slot to hang the parts from.Heat oven to 100 degrees with parts in it about 15 min.You can take the entire rack out and place on box to airbrush parts.I took the parts out individually to keep them warm until I was ready to spray.when they are coated to your satisfaction put them back in oven at 300 degrees for 1 hour.I sprayed them by my patio door with door open and a fan blowing out to keep fumes down.So far I am extremely satisfied,time will tell as to the durability.

 

[Blalock]

I was in the Cop Shop yesterday and Sam has about 10-12 of these guns left.

 

[notguilty]

OOOOhhh .I didn't need to know that!

 

[smores]

1911 will Slam fire as well. I have an old 1911 that shot two for the price of one trigger put on me before. There all great when they are working and crap when there not.

Slam fire or hammer follow? While fitting parts I've had the disconnector stick on 1911s causing hammer follow. This can also be caused by worn/improper engagement angles on the hammer and sear. All in all a very dangerous condition in a .45-cal pistol. I've heard of these going full auto and arcing the shooter's arm fully backward while discharging every round in the magazine.

This is why after doing a trigger job or firing a newly built pistol for the first time you should only load 2 rounds in the magazine in case of a mag dump if there's a problem.

 

[Merlin]

Slam fire or hammer follow? While fitting parts I've had the disconnector stick on 1911s causing hammer follow. This can also be caused by worn/improper engagement angles on the hammer and sear. All in all a very dangerous condition in a .45-cal pistol. I've heard of these going full auto and arcing the shooter's arm fully backward while discharging every round in the magazine.

This is why after doing a trigger job or firing a newly built pistol for the first time you should only load 2 rounds in the magazine in case of a mag dump if there's a problem.

That sounds like very good advice. This happen to me years ago when I bought an old 1911 that was built in 1917. It was worn and I was fitting it with new parts and I was also tinkering around with the trigger spring load tension.

 

[Merlin]

http://www.molyresin.com/default.asp
The instructions are pretty clear , I didn't have to figure much out on my own.I bought an airbrush from Yorktowne Hobby in Timonium $40.00.The MolyResin was $30.00 free shipping.Fieldstrip and remove grips.i used acetone to remove any oil from surface and # 400 grit sandpaper to prep.You don't have to remove previous finish just buff it up ,remove light scratches and such.I took 1 oven rack and set it across the top of a card board box,and cut the front of the box out.then using coat hangers i could suspend the slide, barrel and frame to airbrush them.The other oven rack I moved to the topmost slot to hang the parts from.Heat oven to 100 degrees with parts in it about 15 min.You can take the entire rack out and place on box to airbrush parts.I took the parts out individually to keep them warm until I was ready to spray.when they are coated to your satisfaction put them back in oven at 300 degrees for 1 hour.I sprayed them by my patio door with door open and a fan blowing out to keep fumes down.So far I am extremely satisfied,time will tell as to the durability.

So does this take the place of the blueing?

 

[notguilty]

Merlin , I would say yes, if you look at this from the website .What do you think because I am not that familiar with bluing ,plus I don't think the 92 is blued.

Moly Resin™ will adhere to all properly prepared metal surfaces including the following: aluminum, carbon steel, stainless steel, cast iron, titanium, copper and silver solder joints. Note: Blued, anodized, nickel and chrome plated surfaces may not allow the best adhesion and may need to be abrasive blasted to allow the best adhesion of the Resin. Parkerizing is an excellent metal prep for Moly Resin. For all metals, best overall results are achieved on freshly airblasted (with alumunum oxide) surfaces. Moly Resin™ is available in the following twelve standard colors but other colors may be special ordered.

 

[Merlin]

Merlin , I would say yes, if you look at this from the website .What do you think because I am not that familiar with bluing ,plus I don't think the 92 is blued.

Moly Resin™ will adhere to all properly prepared metal surfaces including the following: aluminum, carbon steel, stainless steel, cast iron, titanium, copper and silver solder joints. Note: Blued, anodized, nickel and chrome plated surfaces may not allow the best adhesion and may need to be abrasive blasted to allow the best adhesion of the Resin. Parkerizing is an excellent metal prep for Moly Resin. For all metals, best overall results are achieved on freshly airblasted (with alumunum oxide) surfaces. Moly Resin™ is available in the following twelve standard colors but other colors may be special ordered.

I think your right about it's not blued. I think none of the new semi-autos are blued anymore. They all look black now.

 

[smores]

I think your right about it's not blued. I think non of the new semi-autos are blued anymore. They all look black now.

Beretta uses a "Bruniton" finish on their black guns, IIRC. Aluminum frames get anodized.

 

[Merlin]

Beretta uses a "Bruniton" finish on their black guns, IIRC. Aluminum frames get anodized.

What about the Sig's, Glock's and the rest?

 

[phidelta308]

Glock calls their finish "tenifer," not sure what sig refers to theirs

 

[smores]

Glock calls their finish "tenifer," not sure what sig refers to theirs

SIG = Nitron
H&K = Hostile Environment
CZ = Poly-Kote

Each manufacturer tends to have a proprietary finish and they call it different things.

Products such as Aluma-Hyde, Gun-Cote, Teflon-Moly, Cera-Cote, Duracoat, etc are spray on finishes and range from bake-on lacquer finishes up to air-cured ceramics. The durability of these products depends on the use of the gun etc. For example hot (oven) cure Cera-Cote works well for general use on guns up to temps of 500*, and cold (air) cure Cera-Cote can stand up to 1200 degrees and works well for hard-use (machineguns etc.) applications.

A few Brownells gunsmith technicians (guys you talk to if you call on the phone with a question about a product Brownells carries) came to our school and did a 2-week long course on "Alternative Finishes" including Parkerizing.

Some of these finishes (especially Cera-Cote) stand up VERY well. One guy coated his Taurus PT1911 with it, and it stood up to sights being drifted in and out. Bluing wore off the sight but the ceramic-based coating did not go ANYWHERE! I'm really impressed with some of these coatings. Most of them are better than bluing if applied correctly.

The trick in DIY applications is making sure you do all the prep work and follow directions. Ambient temperature and humidity can severely affect the final finish and adhesion, as well as metal prep and cleanliness. Polished steel that hasn't been degreased? Not a chance. 120-Grit aluminum oxide blasted steel fully degreased? Maybe... Brownells sells a product called TCE that's an aerosol degreaser that works VERY well but you still need to be careful as dirt/oil/contaminants tend to run down and drip off the bottom of your parts, which may or may not be an issue.

Some parts like to be heated between coats, others don't. Resistance to varying gun cleaning solvents and oils varies widely with the spray on stuff. I can tell you Krylon etc. WILL NOT STAND UP. I've seen people try it and it never works. Go with a good product and you'll be happy if you spend the time to prep your surfaces, which may mean having the proper tools. If you don't have the right tools (bead blaster cabinet, good heat gun, curing oven, spray gun and air compressor etc.) it may not be worth the effort.

As for factory finishes, GLOCK is about the best I've seen. H&K's Hostile Environment finish looks pretty durable. On my Beretta 92FS, I'm getting some holster wear on it but never a sign of corrosion or rust (yet). I clean it thoroughly once a week, and wipe off dust/lint as necessary throughout the week. My 1911 develops surface rust under the grip panels near the backstrap up the entire length of the grip panel. I just take steel wool to it once a week, but if I don't attend to it I'm sure pitting will develop over time. I'm not hugely concerned though because I bought the pistol used, and *surprise!* it had rust under the grips when I got it!!!

And I know this has been a long post, but I found a source of Beretta 96Gs with Trijicon sights dated '99... I'm really tempted as they're only $350 but my budget is TIIIIIIIIIIGHT. If anyone's interested, let me know!

 

[smores]

I think your right about it's not blued. I think none of the new semi-autos are blued anymore. They all look black now.

There are several that you can still get in a blued finish, but it does seem like most pistols on the market have moved to matte-black corrosion-resistant finishes.

Blued guns look beautiful when done properly, but they do command a higher degree of care as opposed to the more modern finishes such as GLOCK's Tennifer. Gun bluing is basically a thin coat of black rust, and it has to be kept oiled or you will pull your weapon out of a case/safe someday to find surface rust and pitting, if not worse!

 

[Drmsparks]

Hey Smores...

What grade abrasive to you use pre parkerizing? I've heard everywhere from fine sand to glass bead. I'm trying to figure out what I need for my first attempt at stripping park off a garand. (crappy greek black on there now)

 

[MDMOUNTAINEER]

Always wanted one, guess I don't really have an excuse now