AR: Removing castle nut

[Hyper-W]

I am trying to install a Magpul ASAP on my AR.

I cannot seem to get the castle nut off. It is REALLY tight. Anyone else had this issue in the past? So far I have been very successful in scratching up the nut but it hasn't budged.

Any suggestions before I get a gunsmith involved?

 

[guthook]

I am trying to install a Magpul ASAP on my AR.

I cannot seem to get the castle nut off. It is REALLY tight. Anyone else had this issue in the past? So far I have been very successful in scratching up the nut but it hasn't budged.

Any suggestions before I get a gunsmith involved?

Sawzall.

 

[BlackBart]

Castellated nuts are used with cotter keys, sure half of it isn't still there?

 

[Inigoes]

 

[jjbduke2004]

Is it staked?

 

[guthook]

It's quite possibly staked.

ETA: jjbduke2004 got me by seconds!

 

[Boondock Saint]

If you've got the right tool, it should break free eventually.

Squirt some oil on the threads and let it run toward the castle nut to hopefully loosen things up a bit.

As stated, if it's staked, this won't work.

 

[guthook]

Here's a pic.

 

[X-Factor]

If my eyes don't deceive, it looks staked. I'm curious as well how to remove it.

 

[pop-gunner]

Looks staked to me...
I took the easy way out and just got myself one of these.Now I have them on most of my guns.

http://www.gggaz.com/index.php?id=138

 

[guthook]

OP didn't post the pic.

 

[JoeBobOutfitters.com]

If you don't have a specific wrench I would suggest getting one. You can find one here: http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/product_p/mi-esw.htm If you have a friend you can borrow a wrench from that would be the easiest. For the really stubborn castle nuts it is a good idea to have a receiver block http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/product_p/brn-080-000-662.htm. The vise block slips into your mag well (rather tightly) then you can clamp the lower into a bench vise and really apply some torque to break the nut loose. As for the staking, you will just basically torque right through it. With the right set-up everything will break free rather easily.

 

[Hyper-W]

Thanks for the help guys. I do have the wrench. While that wasn't my pic that was posted, @guthook posted almost exactly what mine looks like.

I found a post elsewhere after you guys introduced me to the "staked" term (thanks for teaching me) that mentioned filing down the stakes. I found another post that indicates using a punch to remove the stakes.

What a pain in the arse. Now that I know to look for the stakes, I'll try it again later tonight. I knew I had a lot to learn about ARs.

 

[4g64loser]

Hyper-W,

I have taken a bunch of them off. Some idiots surprise you with their ingenuity by using blue or pink loctite. Some are factory (or user) staked. The really fun ones are staked but not in the cutouts. The (usually user) improperly staked ones tend to be done with screwdrivers and chisels across the plate and the nut. I just dremel wheel those rather than screw with them. bill em for a new nut and install the plate they want.

Those factory staked can often be "unstaked" with a carefully applied pin punch and a hammer. Sometimes it is necessary to use a 24oz ball peen hammer and the AR armorers wrench (I have several but prefer the old DPMS factory tool-its good solid steel and seems to work well) to persuade the nut to loosen. You may think you are going to break the gun (I don't care if I do because I don't like ARs anyway) but I've yet to do so. Usually helps to have a very trusting buddy on hand to act as an auxilary vice.

If you still have issues, there are several members in your general area that can probably help you out.

 

[Hyper-W]

Hyper-W,

I have taken a bunch of them off. Some idiots surprise you with their ingenuity by using blue or pink loctite. Some are factory (or user) staked. The really fun ones are staked but not in the cutouts. The (usually user) improperly staked ones tend to be done with screwdrivers and chisels across the plate and the nut. I just dremel wheel those rather than screw with them. bill em for a new nut and install the plate they want.

Those factory staked can often be "unstaked" with a carefully applied pin punch and a hammer. Sometimes it is necessary to use a 24oz ball peen hammer and the AR armorers wrench (I have several but prefer the old DPMS factory tool-its good solid steel and seems to work well) to persuade the nut to loosen. You may think you are going to break the gun (I don't care if I do because I don't like ARs anyway) but I've yet to do so. Usually helps to have a very trusting buddy on hand to act as an auxilary vice.

If you still have issues, there are several members in your general area that can probably help you out.

Thanks for the input. I dicked with it a little more last night. The lower half is entirely factory configured from Stag Arms.

I will post a pic of the nut tonight. I can see what looks like the nut is staked but it is staked across the plate as you mentioned.

I hate to bring my rifle to a smith just to have a new plate put on. I'll keep futzing with it periodically. I am hoping that the picture of my nut will bring about more advice.

Thanks guys.

 

[4g64loser]

Ok,

Now we are talking turkey. A factory Stag lower is generally done Colt pattern (i.e. staked with a square staking punch-which is technically correct but a PITA to remove). You *can* do it the way I describe above (the AR wrench, lower in a vise, and beat the wrench with a big ball peen hammer til you get it loose). When you do this, make sure that you clean up any booger marks on the nut with a file as they will inevitably catch on your clothes or skin at a later date, tearing said materials.

Long story very short: You can beat it loose. If you are handy with a dremel tool and don't give a crap about your old end plate, you can take a thin wheel and very carefully cut the staked spots of the plate (I say carefully because this is where most beginners nick the $hit out of their nut or, even worse, their tube or receiver-please do not take it as an insult, I just see a lot of it). This will relieve the nut and usually allow it to turn easily. I subscribe to the Beat It Loose With Hammer school. Less potential for Whoopsies and it takes less time.

If you have the stuff, use nonmarring vise jaws (a piece of sturdy leather will work if you don't have them), get a buddy to help hold the stock end to keep any twisting or flexing to a minimum, and go to town. If you eff it up, so what? Brownells and others sell AR parts by the boatload and Stag will send you just about anything you need anyway. Chalk it up to a learning experience. Trust me, if you ask anyone that has worked on a lot of ARs, they will tell you that everyone effs some stuff up now and then.

 

[X-Factor]

I hate nicking my nut.

 

[Hyper-W]

Well, I'm giving up. I am going to take it to a gunsmith. I do not have a vice to hold the lower steady. What a pain in the ass.

 

[JoeBobOutfitters.com]

Well, I'm giving up. I am going to take it to a gunsmith. I do not have a vice to hold the lower steady. What a pain in the ass.

You could try inserting an unloaded magazine in it and laying it on a floor, and kneeling on the lower to give you leverage on it

 

[4g64loser]

Yeah, I hate to say this, but taking it in might be your safest bet. If it is on there that tight and you don't have a vise to work with, it isn't worth hurting yourself of damaging your rifle.

The dummy mag trick can help.....I have one that I fitted a wood block into for extra strength....but without a vise you are gonna have a rough time.