AK triggers, I'm confused.

[vin]

I am the happy, proud new owner of a milled Arsenal sam7R. My first overall impression is a good one, but the trigger leaves something to be desired. As it has some creep and quite a bit of over travel.

I'm new to the AK world (this is my first) and poking around on the magic Bing machine has left me scratching my head. Single hook vs double, what will and will not fit a milled receiver, what tigger is better- I've seen differing opinions on everything.

So I ask you,

1- what is the difference and rationale (if any) between single hook and double?

2- what are your opinions of the best trigger?

3- what will actually fit my rifle? (provided the answer isn't, "all of them"

Thanks in advance and here's the obligatory photo of the aforementioned rifle,

 

[BradMacc82]

I actually thought the Tapco trigger was a bit of an improvement over the factory piece, but I have limited time/experience with AK pattern rifles.

 

[Sirex]

Differences of single/double hook, with pics;
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_4_78/130132_Tapco_G2_Trigger_Group___Double_Hook_vs__Single_Hook.html

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86442

 

[Nemesis]

pm'd

 

[wilcam47]

best trigger for me is a Mak90

 

[clandestine]

I prefer the factory 2 Stage Arsenal Trigger/FCG. The Trigger face is contoured nicely and with a 10% Reduced Power Hammer Spring and some stoning they are fantastic triggers.

 

[armed ferret]

I prefer the factory 2 Stage Arsenal Trigger/FCG. The Trigger face is contoured nicely and with a 10% Reduced Power Hammer Spring and some stoning they are fantastic triggers.

Definite troof here. If overtravel is really a big bane for you, and you have a receiver with only a cut for a single-hook, then get a double-hook G2. stone/polish the appropriate hammer/trigger surfaces, then you can use the right-side (ejection-port side) hook and some grinding (on the bottom side, where it contacts the receiver) to tune the overtravel.

takes a bit of time/work, but can yield very nice results.

Or, if you just don't wanna spend the time, pony up the 80 bucks for the RSA trigger and really enjoy the hell out of it. Frankly, 80 bucks for a fully-adjustable trigger is damn inexpensive, but considering the G2 can be had for about 1/3 that price, most folks just don't do it.

 

[Mark75H]

My experience with the G-2 is less than satisfactory ... must have just plain been a defect that the original owner did not catch. The side of the trigger was unfinished and it dragged on the side of the trigger well, negating any improvement. "Gritty" feel of a RSA, Tapco or original AK trigger can be roughness between the trigger and the well.

Trigger pull weight on an AK can be reduced by bailing off one side of the redundant trigger springs. Be careful with reduction of pull, it is all sear engagement on an AK trigger.

 

[vin]

Still mixed results on the G2 trigger... I'm just gonna guess that's a Tapco manufacturing inconsistency issue. Trigger weight isn't so much an issue, the factory one actually feels reasonably light, at least a whole hell of a lot lighter than my SKS, I just see the overtravel as an issue for possibly affecting the point of aim while the bullet is still in the barrel, or am I over thinking that one?

That RSA trigger looks pretty interesting, and I'm not opposed to spending the money for it, if the current trigger end up driving me nuts. I had also seen some good reviews for the Arsenal 2-stage, and its not real expensive so that could be a pretty good option to try out as well.

Thanks for the input!

 

[clandestine]

You should have a Factory 2 stage in it already unless that model dosent have it.

 

[vin]

You should have a Factory 2 stage in it already unless that model dosent have it.

I have exactly zero experience with two stage triggers, but I'm absolutely positive that this one is a single. It's a consistent pull weight all the way through, and I'm not exactly how the trigger and hammer surface geometry is done, but my trigger hooks and corresponding hammer surfaces are flat.

I looked at it again last night, and the over travel is less than I first had in my head, but there is quite a bit of take up.

I know that shortening the length of the trigger hooks, will shorten the take up, but that will also increase the overtravel. I don't particularly want to use screws or anything that could work loose and prevent proper operation, but since I know a welder, what about having him glob a tab on the trigger inside the receiver as a stop, then I file it down to an appropriate point. Or will the extra heat from welding affect the heat treating process on the trigger?

 

[PeePeeMcGee]

vin--is that the sam7r-61 or the sam7r-51? I just bought the 61 and am hoping it turns out to be a good investment.

 

[vin]

vin--is that the sam7r-61 or the sam7r-51? I just bought the 61 and am hoping it turns out to be a good investment.

It's the 61.

It sure looks awesome, I can't wait to shoot it hopefully this coming weekend, I just want to clean the trigger up a little bit.

 

[PeePeeMcGee]

Thats cool. Mine is shipping out today. Should be at my FFL on friday.

Thats a beautiful dog you have in your avi. Is it a spaniel?

 

[clandestine]

I have exactly zero experience with two stage triggers, but I'm absolutely positive that this one is a single. It's a consistent pull weight all the way through, and I'm not exactly how the trigger and hammer surface geometry is done, but my trigger hooks and corresponding hammer surfaces are flat.

I looked at it again last night, and the over travel is less than I first had in my head, but there is quite a bit of take up.

I know that shortening the length of the trigger hooks, will shorten the take up, but that will also increase the overtravel. I don't particularly want to use screws or anything that could work loose and prevent proper operation, but since I know a welder, what about having him glob a tab on the trigger inside the receiver as a stop, then I file it down to an appropriate point. Or will the extra heat from welding affect the heat treating process on the trigger?

If the trigger does not come to a stop before it breaks then you have an arsenal single stage (They make both types). The Arsenal Single Stage Triggers are similar to tapcos which are LOOOOOOOONG so gle stage pulls. I hate those.

The arsenal 2 stage has a ridge on the Hammer and Trigger hook. I remove half of the bump (like cutting down a speed bump to not be as tall). I then polish the Hammer Engagement, Trigger Engagement, the top tails on the trigger, and the sides of the trigger.

Install a lighter hammer spring and you'll have a 4# crisp 2 stage trigger. You'll have a long pull then it will come to a stop, then o my addi g a pound or more it will break cleanly.

No welding needed. The welding it to try and make it a shorter single stage which will reduce reliability.

I agree avoid adjustable unless its a range toy alone.

 

[vin]

Thats a beautiful dog you have in your avi. Is it a spaniel?

Thanks. She's a 3 year old, (about 1 1/2 in the photo) Boykin Spaniel. Crazy ball of energy.

 

[Nemesis]

If the trigger does not come to a stop before it breaks then you have an arsenal single stage (They make both types). The Arsenal Single Stage Triggers are similar to tapcos which are LOOOOOOOONG so gle stage pulls. I hate those.

The arsenal 2 stage has a ridge on the Hammer and Trigger hook. I remove half of the bump (like cutting down a speed bump to not be as tall). I then polish the Hammer Engagement, Trigger Engagement, the top tails on the trigger, and the sides of the trigger.

Install a lighter hammer spring and you'll have a 4# crisp 2 stage trigger. You'll have a long pull then it will come to a stop, then o my addi g a pound or more it will break cleanly.

No welding needed. The welding it to try and make it a shorter single stage which will reduce reliability.

I agree avoid adjustable unless its a range toy alone.

ill second the welding statement, if stuff builds up inside (which it will) it can cause the trigger to not go far enough forward to reset. the part i made solves this problem and is not susceptible to these reliability issues.

 

[PeePeeMcGee]

Vin-- did you get your sam7r from k-var by chance? That's where I got mine. They're taking a while to ship it.

 

[vin]

Thanks for the input in the welding idea, guys. I'll steer clear of it.

PPM- Mine came from Atlantic.

 

[rob-cubed]

AK triggers are generally "sloppy" with a good bit of creep and a little overtravel. Just part of the design. A double hook won't feel any different but as mentioned, you can slowly relieve material from the bottom of the second hook and negate most overtravel.

The Arsenal 2-stage will allow you to feel the break... it's probably the best cheap trigger upgrade. RSA triggers are fully adjustable but a bit expensive and still won't feel like a match trigger. It will allow you to reduce travel on both sides of the break a bit.

IMO, just shoot the heck out of it and you'll probably adjust to the feel. G2s really aren't bad as far as AK triggers go... believe it or not, some of the factory triggers are worse.