So I hit the range (happ-baker) with my CVA wolf for the first time. Other than a few rounds out of a .22, my first time really shooting a gun. I had a B of a time dialing in the sight. I think in part because I kept doubting that I was moving the sight in the right direction. The other two I had going against me was no spotter to help when I clean missed the target paper as well as the shooting boxes. My Wolf has fiber optic sights and in the box, they were dark as heck, making it sometimes hard to line-up the shot.
After 48 rounds and a really sore shoulder I think I have the sights dialed in reasonably close. I ran out of time though, so I can't be positive. I might have also had a bit of bruised shoulder gun shyness on the last few rounds, or the gun was just too dang hot. The last 3-4 rounds were way off even though I thought I was fairly lined up. I was only shooting at 25 and 50yds.
at 25 after the first few rounds and some adjustment I was pretty much right on (within the target rings, maybe 2" groups), but at 50 I kept not adjusting down far enough (in part because I kept doubting which way to adjust the sight). Then the last few rounds were fairly wild. The barrel wasn't quite so hot I couldn't touch it, but it was uncomfortably hot by the last few shots of the afternoon.
So, questions. Should I try a different sight? Or is this not something that'll be a big deal in actual hunting (IE not super dark where I am compared to the target). I was looking at the PeepRib sight for an aperture rear sight as well as being able to mount a scope on it easily later without removing the open sights. Anyone use this sight or other aperture sights? Are aperture sights particularly easier or more accurate than a fiber optic rear sight?
Was it really heat near the end? I was not perfectly measuring the powder, using marked blackhorn tubes at 110gr and trying to be accurate to the line. I would think being a few grains (+/- maybe 2) wouldn't throw off accuracy as much as I thought it was off at 50yds. Next time I'll probably pre-fill them on my scale before going to the range (bought an extra set of 6 so that I'll have 12 that I can take). I am also thinking of going down to 100gr till I am much more practiced. Also moving to 240gr .44. A bit sturdier and better ballistic coefficient and I am hoping the slightly thicker sabot petals will help accuracy when the barrel heats up during practice.
Or is this that I really suck that badly and need a massive amount more practice (yeah, I am sure that is a bit of it)? I was not yanking the trigger, I was doing what I thought was good breath control, sandbags so things weren't wavering a bunch, ignition was perceptibly spontaneous without any lag and so on.
If a lot of it was heat, any suggestions? Hunting it won't matter, which is what I care about the most, but I'd also like to be able to go to the range, not in mid winter, and be able to squeeze off more than half a dozen rounds before twiddling my thumbs for an hour waiting for the barrel to cool. The wife will not like the idea of buying a .22 to fill in the waiting time (which I want to do eventually anyway). Might the thicker sabots help (even if accuracy does go down some)? Swabbing with a soaking wet patch before a dry patch? I was just using some spit on a patch then a dry patch.
Any thoughts on dampening the recoil? Shoulder is still pretty sore today. Very little visible bruising. Maybe a folded over dish towel while at the range? Dropping back to 100gr pyrodex till I get more practiced? I was probably 12-15 rounds before it started getting uncomfortable and about 30 rounds in before my shoulder started to really ache. A few shoots is no big deal and hunting I'll probably have a few layers on too. I think I've discovered the problem of a light muzzleloader. Does a different powder, like FFFg triple 7 have the same or less recoil for the same volume measure of powder? I've read a lot that triple 7 has more velocity for the same volume measure as pyrodex, but does that also straight up equate to more recoil too? Or is it similar recoil for the same measure (IE burns more completely in the barrel instead of burning some out of the barrel)?
Anyway, I know a LONG post, but just starting out and hoping I can suck up some knowledge of some of the experienced ML shooters out there. Thanks!
After 48 rounds and a really sore shoulder I think I have the sights dialed in reasonably close. I ran out of time though, so I can't be positive. I might have also had a bit of bruised shoulder gun shyness on the last few rounds, or the gun was just too dang hot. The last 3-4 rounds were way off even though I thought I was fairly lined up. I was only shooting at 25 and 50yds.
at 25 after the first few rounds and some adjustment I was pretty much right on (within the target rings, maybe 2" groups), but at 50 I kept not adjusting down far enough (in part because I kept doubting which way to adjust the sight). Then the last few rounds were fairly wild. The barrel wasn't quite so hot I couldn't touch it, but it was uncomfortably hot by the last few shots of the afternoon.
So, questions. Should I try a different sight? Or is this not something that'll be a big deal in actual hunting (IE not super dark where I am compared to the target). I was looking at the PeepRib sight for an aperture rear sight as well as being able to mount a scope on it easily later without removing the open sights. Anyone use this sight or other aperture sights? Are aperture sights particularly easier or more accurate than a fiber optic rear sight?
Was it really heat near the end? I was not perfectly measuring the powder, using marked blackhorn tubes at 110gr and trying to be accurate to the line. I would think being a few grains (+/- maybe 2) wouldn't throw off accuracy as much as I thought it was off at 50yds. Next time I'll probably pre-fill them on my scale before going to the range (bought an extra set of 6 so that I'll have 12 that I can take). I am also thinking of going down to 100gr till I am much more practiced. Also moving to 240gr .44. A bit sturdier and better ballistic coefficient and I am hoping the slightly thicker sabot petals will help accuracy when the barrel heats up during practice.
Or is this that I really suck that badly and need a massive amount more practice (yeah, I am sure that is a bit of it)? I was not yanking the trigger, I was doing what I thought was good breath control, sandbags so things weren't wavering a bunch, ignition was perceptibly spontaneous without any lag and so on.
If a lot of it was heat, any suggestions? Hunting it won't matter, which is what I care about the most, but I'd also like to be able to go to the range, not in mid winter, and be able to squeeze off more than half a dozen rounds before twiddling my thumbs for an hour waiting for the barrel to cool. The wife will not like the idea of buying a .22 to fill in the waiting time (which I want to do eventually anyway). Might the thicker sabots help (even if accuracy does go down some)? Swabbing with a soaking wet patch before a dry patch? I was just using some spit on a patch then a dry patch.
Any thoughts on dampening the recoil? Shoulder is still pretty sore today. Very little visible bruising. Maybe a folded over dish towel while at the range? Dropping back to 100gr pyrodex till I get more practiced? I was probably 12-15 rounds before it started getting uncomfortable and about 30 rounds in before my shoulder started to really ache. A few shoots is no big deal and hunting I'll probably have a few layers on too. I think I've discovered the problem of a light muzzleloader. Does a different powder, like FFFg triple 7 have the same or less recoil for the same volume measure of powder? I've read a lot that triple 7 has more velocity for the same volume measure as pyrodex, but does that also straight up equate to more recoil too? Or is it similar recoil for the same measure (IE burns more completely in the barrel instead of burning some out of the barrel)?
Anyway, I know a LONG post, but just starting out and hoping I can suck up some knowledge of some of the experienced ML shooters out there. Thanks!