22/45 fires as I reset trigger

[Johnnyeastside]

My 22/45 has just under 2000 rounds through it. I have drilled the trigger for freeplay and reset adjustment when it was almost brand new, along with the other common 22/45 mods, mag disconnect and sling shot mod. It has been flawless ever since. Today, out of about 300 rounds, it would fire as I was resetting the trigger maybe 10-15 times. Not consistently. I also had 10 or 15 fail to fire, but there was a clear strike on the rim (Rem bulk Gold)
I would squeeze the trigger, fire the shot, ease it out to reset with the finger pressure to stop it ready for the next shot-then it would fire. I have never had this happen before.
The only thing I can think of is that the set screw in the trigger has pushed into the plastic frame and is able to travel a few thousandths further causing it to fire instead of stop.
Last time I shot it was in Oct at the Delta Steel match and it did not do this. I think I cleaned it after that trip, but not a detail strip. It's been about 1000 rounds since a detail clean.
Maybe I'll give the screw another adjustment and see what happens. Any other ideas?

 

[Boondock Saint]

Can't help you with the issue, but I'm interested in the answer since I own one of these as well, though without any modifications.

Obviously, be especially careful with it until you're able to get it straightened out.

 

[Johnnyeastside]

Maybe this worn sear?

 

[BradMacc82]

Very possible, if your still having AD's after adjusting the set screw, time to talk to a 'smith.

 

[Johnnyeastside]

What sucks is that the Vq sears aren't in stock anywhere. I have a feeling that it's the sear. It's not consistent. That sear has had a groove on it since new. Seems odd that it would wear so fast.
Maybe I'll call Ruger to see if they have a new sear?
I'll try both things and if that doesn't fix it I'm definitely getting professional help.

 

[BradMacc82]

I hope you have your original parts around still, it'd be easier to replace that sear with the factory piece then.

I'm not above modding a weapon myself, but some parts, I just leave them as the factory/designer intended.

With the exception of the Mag Disconnect that was in my Hi-Power, that HAD to go.

 

[Johnnyeastside]

It's the original sear still in there but I wanted to get the Vq sear for it. I do still have everything that came out of it though.
Mods were done 1500 rounds ago

 

[BradMacc82]

Wow, not a lot of round's to wear something down that fast IMO, but odder things have happened.

If you have another sear to try, it can't hurt, but I got a feeling your probably better off consulting a 'smith. Esp. since I'm not well-versed on the 22/45.

 

[photoracer]

My 22/45 has just under 2000 rounds through it. I have drilled the trigger for freeplay and reset adjustment when it was almost brand new, along with the other common 22/45 mods, mag disconnect and sling shot mod. It has been flawless ever since. Today, out of about 300 rounds, it would fire as I was resetting the trigger maybe 10-15 times. Not consistently. I also had 10 or 15 fail to fire, but there was a clear strike on the rim (Rem bulk Gold)
I would squeeze the trigger, fire the shot, ease it out to reset with the finger pressure to stop it ready for the next shot-then it would fire. I have never had this happen before.
The only thing I can think of is that the set screw in the trigger has pushed into the plastic frame and is able to travel a few thousandths further causing it to fire instead of stop.
Last time I shot it was in Oct at the Delta Steel match and it did not do this. I think I cleaned it after that trip, but not a detail strip. It's been about 1000 rounds since a detail clean.
Maybe I'll give the screw another adjustment and see what happens. Any other ideas?

I would check the setting of the overtravel screw you added for one thing. If the screw allows more trigger travel this would not happen (screw backing out). Only less travel (screw decreasing over travel), like it is moved farther in, would cause reset issues. Also doubling can be caused by insufficient sear engagement. I have never seen a sear go bad in such a short time even on a centerfire gun. I had one go bad on a 40+ YO Browning Hi-Power that caused it to go full auto in bursts. Dropping another sear in it solved the issue.
I would not consider 1000 rounds enough for a detail clean. I have only owned one 22/45 and I sold it long before it got to even 1000 rounds. My Browning Buckmark speed steel guns normally only get a complete cleaning 2 times a year after about 7500 rounds or so, sometimes longer.

 

[Johnnyeastside]

Update.
Midway finally had VQ sears in stock so I bought one. I did call Ruger, they won't sell a sear. I would have had to send the gun back to them.
Anyway, dropped the new sear in last night and it seems to be working great with snap caps. Can't wait to get to the range to confirm.
The VQ sear really lightens up the trigger pull. I like it but it will take a few rounds for me to get used to.
To be clear, my gun had the original Ruger sear in it. It had a very noticeable notch on it where the hammer engages it.

 

[mudskipper]

Sounds like the overtravel screw you put in is working a little too well.

You say it took 1,500 rounds to develop the problem? OK, what seems plausible to me is this:

Imagine those two surfaces - the tirgger and the sear, interfacing with each other normally. They touch, and under pull the trigger trips the edge of the sear, the sear moves, drops the hammer, gun fires. As that's happening, the trigger continues its rearward travel past the point of sear disengagment and "wears" the surface of the sear down uniformly.

But you stopped this process with the overtravel screw. You have the trigger overtravel adjusted to the point where it juuuuuuuuust barely trips the sear, the sear drops the hammer, but the trigger does NOT continue past the "tripping point" on the sear, but instead, it just stays right where it is and concentrates the wear on that tiny point. So it begins to deform the trip surface slightly over time, until you start to develop a secondary "let-off" sear, which fires as the trigger is trying to re-set.

Under normal circumstances, the trigger overtravel would prevent this from happening due to the overtravel allowing the trigger surface to wear the sear evenly, instead of just in one spot.

I'd lose that overtravel screw.....


This is my pet theory.

 

[Johnnyeastside]

I'm with you, but: The over travel screw wasn't set that aggressively, neither was the pre travel. Also, the sear had that line on it since it was new, it just wasn't as defined. It didn't go all the was across the surface either, almost like contact was a little crooked. But now the mark is clear an worn. I'm not above thinking that I could have done something to contribute, just adding some facts. I'm no expert and love learning.
With the VQ sear I've had to remove the over travel screw completely. The amount of travel it would stop wasn't worth having the long part of the screw sticking into my finger on the face of the trigger. I wish you could have seen this in person.

 

[clandestine]

Several things can be causing this, pics wont relay whats occurring.